How do I redo the windows they have some leakage around the seals/molding? Do you remove them and replace the molding? I am redoing the teak trim on the boat around the door and top railings they were fasten with screws and somekind of glue. What kind of glue would this be maybe a silcone sealent? Any suggestions on refinishing teak would be great.
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Tony Carlisle
Web Site Article
This is a good article on repairing leaking windows at www.yachtsurvey.com. It is found under "Maintenance" and is titled "How to Repair Window Leaks". Worth a read....hope it helps.
This is a good article on repairing leaking windows at www.yachtsurvey.com. It is found under "Maintenance" and is titled "How to Repair Window Leaks". Worth a read....hope it helps.
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Tom Germano
glue for your handrails
I used polyurethane ( 3M 4200) available at West. Polysulfide would be another good option for resealing/ gluing the hand railings. Just a word of caution. First use plenty of mask and take your time - the stuff will get all over everything and clean up is a pain in the ass. Second - the deck top hand rails are not straight - there was a very slight curvature in each of mine (1989 c -22) that I failed to notice and after days of sanding and staining I reversed the fore - aft ends of the port side railing. Since the holes were now off center I cracked the railing when I went to screw it in and needed to replace it. Label them port / starbd and fore /aft and save yourself my misfortune. Good luck and have fun. Tom G.
I used polyurethane ( 3M 4200) available at West. Polysulfide would be another good option for resealing/ gluing the hand railings. Just a word of caution. First use plenty of mask and take your time - the stuff will get all over everything and clean up is a pain in the ass. Second - the deck top hand rails are not straight - there was a very slight curvature in each of mine (1989 c -22) that I failed to notice and after days of sanding and staining I reversed the fore - aft ends of the port side railing. Since the holes were now off center I cracked the railing when I went to screw it in and needed to replace it. Label them port / starbd and fore /aft and save yourself my misfortune. Good luck and have fun. Tom G.
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Robbin
Glue and Oil
Last summer I removed and refinished all my teak. I used Teak Oil, lots of coats, and it all looks great. I used 3M 5200 to glue and seal. I read that 3M 4200 is permanent and difficult to remove. If removed it can pull up gelcoat as well. I didn't want to risk that, so I used the 5200 which is semi-permanent but removable. I didn't have any problem reversing my deck handrails as the screw holes only matched up one way. But double check before you tighten it all down, better safe than sorry.
Last summer I removed and refinished all my teak. I used Teak Oil, lots of coats, and it all looks great. I used 3M 5200 to glue and seal. I read that 3M 4200 is permanent and difficult to remove. If removed it can pull up gelcoat as well. I didn't want to risk that, so I used the 5200 which is semi-permanent but removable. I didn't have any problem reversing my deck handrails as the screw holes only matched up one way. But double check before you tighten it all down, better safe than sorry.
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Randy
5200 - 4200 mixup
Just a clarification - 3M 5200 is the permanent one, 4200 is the removable one!
Just a clarification - 3M 5200 is the permanent one, 4200 is the removable one!
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Bayard Gross
Try silicone
Marine grade silicones, such as 3M and West Marine, are excellent as a sealer and have substantial adhesive properties. Clear silicone has one great advantage over sealent-adhesives such as 5200 and 4200 and that is it is very easy to clean up. It this regard around teak, in my opinion,it is superior to other sealent-adhesives.
Marine grade silicones, such as 3M and West Marine, are excellent as a sealer and have substantial adhesive properties. Clear silicone has one great advantage over sealent-adhesives such as 5200 and 4200 and that is it is very easy to clean up. It this regard around teak, in my opinion,it is superior to other sealent-adhesives.
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R Kolb
Hold Old A C22?
If your C22 is the "newer" style without the aluminum window frame then Catalina uses Dow 795, a black adhesive/caulk for the windows. I just re-did three windows last weekend. It is quite a bit of work because you have to completely remove the old sealant. Catalina Direct sells the sealant. If you search the archives using "795" you will find more info.
If your C22 is the "newer" style without the aluminum window frame then Catalina uses Dow 795, a black adhesive/caulk for the windows. I just re-did three windows last weekend. It is quite a bit of work because you have to completely remove the old sealant. Catalina Direct sells the sealant. If you search the archives using "795" you will find more info.
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tom b. c-22
i have a 72 and did what you are doing
and i replaced the screws and i used silicone under the wood..make sure you seal around the wood so no water makes it under the wood even tho you will have some kind of sealant under there. just like you would on a window or tub, spread some sealant around the edges...my rails looked like driftwood when i first bought the boat, but a lot of sanding and lots of polyurethane took care of them..they were cracked and a mahvelous gray color when i started, but after finishing them up.. the look grrrreat, again.. i emphasize the words, a lot of sanding..and yes i also had to be careful when replacing them as they do have a slight curve in them.Just make a dry run before placing any silicone under them and line up all screws to see if it's ready to go.. as far as the windows.. i believe catalina direct sells a kit to replace "da stuff" around the windows... good luck.. tom
and i replaced the screws and i used silicone under the wood..make sure you seal around the wood so no water makes it under the wood even tho you will have some kind of sealant under there. just like you would on a window or tub, spread some sealant around the edges...my rails looked like driftwood when i first bought the boat, but a lot of sanding and lots of polyurethane took care of them..they were cracked and a mahvelous gray color when i started, but after finishing them up.. the look grrrreat, again.. i emphasize the words, a lot of sanding..and yes i also had to be careful when replacing them as they do have a slight curve in them.Just make a dry run before placing any silicone under them and line up all screws to see if it's ready to go.. as far as the windows.. i believe catalina direct sells a kit to replace "da stuff" around the windows... good luck.. tom
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Frank Sheets
Mark Them
I always mark things in an out of sight place when I take them off. i.e. "aft port" on a hand rail. Also I replace screws & bolts when they aren't in the way
I always mark things in an out of sight place when I take them off. i.e. "aft port" on a hand rail. Also I replace screws & bolts when they aren't in the way
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Robbin
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