I am a new 1976 Oday25 owner. The boat leaks under the handrail and around the windows. The windows also are cracked badly and the curtains are shot. Any ideas where to get replacement curtains that fit that old style track system? If I clean out the old caulk around the windows and recaulk is there much chance of solving the leak or is it really necesssary to remove the windows to get a good caulk in place? How hard are they to remove? If I do remove them is it possible to disassemble the window and insert new plexiglass I can buy a the HW store vs spending more at D&R and getting replacement windows? finally, I need to tighten the handrail down to squeeze out some leaks, anyone know where I can find replacement dome plugs to cover the bolt heads inside the cabin? the old ones are brittle and what size is the bolt head (9 MM?)
Windows and Curtains for an ODay 25 and Handrail
- Thread starter Ran-Dee18470
- Start date
- Status
windows and handrails
Hey Ran-Dee, I'm going through the same sort of thing with an older O'Day 22 and have found out great info. from this site and other sources. I tried looking up your boat so I could get a good look at the windows to see if they are vinyl or have an aluminum frame and I couldn't tell. If they are vinyl and in rough shape, from what I've researched, you're better off spending the money to get new ones rather than trying to fix. If I'm wrong on that hopefully someone will chime in. But if they're vinyl and in good shape you may be able to get them out, clean all your surfaces really good, wipe the area of the boat down where the window needs to be sealed to the boat with acetone and the vinyl frame with alchol (I'm pretty sure acetone may eat away at vinyl and know for sure Plastic products don't hold up to it). When you're done with the cleaning you may have 2 choices. 1 being using some foam tape, about an inch wide, around the part of the window frame that will set up against the boat (the adhesive side will go up against the window frame). If this is the case get the window in and tighten down, you'll see some foam squeeze out around the outside of the window when done which you can trim with a sharp blade. The second choice is more time consuming and costlier but is a possiblity if need be. Find some 3m 101 marine sealant (don't use 3M 5200 because it is and adhesive that will make the job of getting your windows out at a later date close to impossible!!)and run a bead around the window opening on the fiberglass of the boat, enough to where you'll get some oozing of the caulk when you put it in and tighten it down. It would be a real good idea to run some masking tape, before permanant instalation, around the outside of the window opening, about an 1/8 of an inch gap above and around where the window will set permanently so clean up will be quicker and not as messy.Run your finger around the edge of the window and any extra caulk can be cleaned up with denatured alchol. If you have aluminum frames you're in luck because I've found some great info. and a possible supplier for the bedding material. Rudy at D&R Marine told me to look up Catalina Direct (he doesn't carry the material needed to re-bed windows) because many O'Days used the same windows as the Catalinas. Catalina Direct has the material, actually its a kit that has all of the bedding material and caulk used to seal the window to the boat, so I'll be pulling them apart and re-bedding them. Also, it is a chore to get the windows out, so if you decide to do so take your time and clean all surfaces then wipe down with acetone making sure you don't get the acetone on your windows if they're any type of plastic. As for re-caulking the outside of the windows, I'm assuming (which is not a great thing to do!), that the previous owner may have tried to stop the leaks by running a bead of caulk on the outside and if the caulk was silicone it will fail eventually no matter if it be marine grade or the regular stuff. Silicone just doesn't adher to fiberglass all that well. As for hand rails, I refinsished all my teak and will be sealing the holes with 3M 5200. You don't have to lay a bead down on the whole surface of the wood or metal, just put some in and around the hole where the screws penatrate the boat. Some caulk will ooze out so be ready with some denatured alcohol to wipe it up. This will save you caulk (3M 5200 is expensive stuff) and time. If you don't want to get as crazy as what I'm doing and want to get out and sail your new boat, try the caulking around the window again it may hold for a season or two, giving you some time to enjoy your boat and come up with a good game plan on what to do. Good Luck and Happy Sailing! Curt
Hey Ran-Dee, I'm going through the same sort of thing with an older O'Day 22 and have found out great info. from this site and other sources. I tried looking up your boat so I could get a good look at the windows to see if they are vinyl or have an aluminum frame and I couldn't tell. If they are vinyl and in rough shape, from what I've researched, you're better off spending the money to get new ones rather than trying to fix. If I'm wrong on that hopefully someone will chime in. But if they're vinyl and in good shape you may be able to get them out, clean all your surfaces really good, wipe the area of the boat down where the window needs to be sealed to the boat with acetone and the vinyl frame with alchol (I'm pretty sure acetone may eat away at vinyl and know for sure Plastic products don't hold up to it). When you're done with the cleaning you may have 2 choices. 1 being using some foam tape, about an inch wide, around the part of the window frame that will set up against the boat (the adhesive side will go up against the window frame). If this is the case get the window in and tighten down, you'll see some foam squeeze out around the outside of the window when done which you can trim with a sharp blade. The second choice is more time consuming and costlier but is a possiblity if need be. Find some 3m 101 marine sealant (don't use 3M 5200 because it is and adhesive that will make the job of getting your windows out at a later date close to impossible!!)and run a bead around the window opening on the fiberglass of the boat, enough to where you'll get some oozing of the caulk when you put it in and tighten it down. It would be a real good idea to run some masking tape, before permanant instalation, around the outside of the window opening, about an 1/8 of an inch gap above and around where the window will set permanently so clean up will be quicker and not as messy.Run your finger around the edge of the window and any extra caulk can be cleaned up with denatured alchol. If you have aluminum frames you're in luck because I've found some great info. and a possible supplier for the bedding material. Rudy at D&R Marine told me to look up Catalina Direct (he doesn't carry the material needed to re-bed windows) because many O'Days used the same windows as the Catalinas. Catalina Direct has the material, actually its a kit that has all of the bedding material and caulk used to seal the window to the boat, so I'll be pulling them apart and re-bedding them. Also, it is a chore to get the windows out, so if you decide to do so take your time and clean all surfaces then wipe down with acetone making sure you don't get the acetone on your windows if they're any type of plastic. As for re-caulking the outside of the windows, I'm assuming (which is not a great thing to do!), that the previous owner may have tried to stop the leaks by running a bead of caulk on the outside and if the caulk was silicone it will fail eventually no matter if it be marine grade or the regular stuff. Silicone just doesn't adher to fiberglass all that well. As for hand rails, I refinsished all my teak and will be sealing the holes with 3M 5200. You don't have to lay a bead down on the whole surface of the wood or metal, just put some in and around the hole where the screws penatrate the boat. Some caulk will ooze out so be ready with some denatured alcohol to wipe it up. This will save you caulk (3M 5200 is expensive stuff) and time. If you don't want to get as crazy as what I'm doing and want to get out and sail your new boat, try the caulking around the window again it may hold for a season or two, giving you some time to enjoy your boat and come up with a good game plan on what to do. Good Luck and Happy Sailing! Curt
RE: easy route 1st
Thanks for your tips. I need to try the easy route 1st and get some sailing time in as you suggested. If I try seal them while mounted you said that silicone does not adhere well to the fiberglass yet 5200 is too much of a permanent bond to go with in case I have to remove the windows in the near future. Therefore, what is a reasonable short term approach to try? Also re the hand rails, do you think my snugging them down won't stop the leaks?
Thanks for your tips. I need to try the easy route 1st and get some sailing time in as you suggested. If I try seal them while mounted you said that silicone does not adhere well to the fiberglass yet 5200 is too much of a permanent bond to go with in case I have to remove the windows in the near future. Therefore, what is a reasonable short term approach to try? Also re the hand rails, do you think my snugging them down won't stop the leaks?
To silicone or not to silicone??
To Silicone or not to silicone?? So silicone isn't the best possible solution to fixing leaks on a boat, but... it's ok for a tempory not so great fix. So a marien grade silicone may be able to help you get out on the water with less leaking and less time invested up front. For a temporary fix I'd first clean all the old caulking off incredibly well(assuming that the previous owner just ran a bead of caulk on the outside of the window frame as a quick fix and it's now failing).Then I would get a marien grade silicone and run a bead around the outside of the window frame and boat for a tempory fix, you may also find you need to run a bead between the outside of the window and the frame because water may be getting in this way also. Again, silicone will work as a tempory fix but eventually, sooner than later, you'll have to take a different route to fix the leaks but you'll be able to get out and enjoy your boat with less leaking. As for trying to tighten the rails down a little more I'd be really careful. My worry would be that you could create a greater problem by overtightening and cracking fiberglass or more than likely striping the screw holes out. For a tempory fix silicone caluk may work by running a bead where the rail meets the body of the boat. The only thing is that it's easy to make a mess of your boat by having either unclean surfaces while you work, or the outside enviroment kicking stuff up into your curing caulk, and if your caulking ablity is anything like mine be prepared for a really messy line of caulk around the outside of the windows and rails. I just can't seem to run a good bead of caulk to save my life! This is where the old adage patience is a virtue rings loud and clear! If your patient you can make a good tempory fix work for maybe a season or two and not look so bad, but remember you'll have to clean all the silicone up later and getting it off of wood can be a real pain. Silicone also leaves a residue on the boat even when it looks like you've got it all off so you'll have to, lastly, clean where the silicone was with something like acetone. Good Luck!!
To Silicone or not to silicone?? So silicone isn't the best possible solution to fixing leaks on a boat, but... it's ok for a tempory not so great fix. So a marien grade silicone may be able to help you get out on the water with less leaking and less time invested up front. For a temporary fix I'd first clean all the old caulking off incredibly well(assuming that the previous owner just ran a bead of caulk on the outside of the window frame as a quick fix and it's now failing).Then I would get a marien grade silicone and run a bead around the outside of the window frame and boat for a tempory fix, you may also find you need to run a bead between the outside of the window and the frame because water may be getting in this way also. Again, silicone will work as a tempory fix but eventually, sooner than later, you'll have to take a different route to fix the leaks but you'll be able to get out and enjoy your boat with less leaking. As for trying to tighten the rails down a little more I'd be really careful. My worry would be that you could create a greater problem by overtightening and cracking fiberglass or more than likely striping the screw holes out. For a tempory fix silicone caluk may work by running a bead where the rail meets the body of the boat. The only thing is that it's easy to make a mess of your boat by having either unclean surfaces while you work, or the outside enviroment kicking stuff up into your curing caulk, and if your caulking ablity is anything like mine be prepared for a really messy line of caulk around the outside of the windows and rails. I just can't seem to run a good bead of caulk to save my life! This is where the old adage patience is a virtue rings loud and clear! If your patient you can make a good tempory fix work for maybe a season or two and not look so bad, but remember you'll have to clean all the silicone up later and getting it off of wood can be a real pain. Silicone also leaves a residue on the boat even when it looks like you've got it all off so you'll have to, lastly, clean where the silicone was with something like acetone. Good Luck!!
The Best Job
Temporary fixes are not the best if you are going to invest the time you should do it right. So one day for the railings and one day for the ports. I removed and re beded all on my 25 and it's worth the trouble, no leaks. Luckily I only had one port leak and after removing the inside frame I pushed from the inside and it came out easy. Be careful the plastic frame might be brittle and as you remove the screws it will crack a little around the screw hole. Clean the port hole well with acetone and the same for the port. Re bed and that's all.
Temporary fixes are not the best if you are going to invest the time you should do it right. So one day for the railings and one day for the ports. I removed and re beded all on my 25 and it's worth the trouble, no leaks. Luckily I only had one port leak and after removing the inside frame I pushed from the inside and it came out easy. Be careful the plastic frame might be brittle and as you remove the screws it will crack a little around the screw hole. Clean the port hole well with acetone and the same for the port. Re bed and that's all.
- Status