Windlass wiring help

onecoolair · Jul 19, 2012

Goldfinger said:
On my 33fter the anchor windlass is wired so it can only work when the engine is running. This was set up by PO when the boat was in charter presumably to stop ignorant people running down the batteries.

However, I would like to have the windlass operate off the batteries when the engine isn't working in case, say, the motor dies and someone with limited strength needs to get the anchor out and can't do it manually.

Any ideas where I should start looking to rewire so I can get what I want.

Thanks in advance.

Okay keep in mind I have not seen your boat. I am going on the assumpion that the windless runs off the main house banks and there is no seperate dedicated battery up in the bow section for windless or bow thrusters only.
But here goes trace the wiring from windless back to its source...which should lead you to a breaker for windless. Breaker then feeds to main cut off battery switch common post. Breaker should be very close to battery main cut off switch. This is the normal way it should be done.

Hmmm??....Engine only....My guess would be that he has wired a relay some how in between the breaker switch and the battery main cut off switch that is triggered when engine key is in the on position. Trouble shoot a little turn the engine key to the on position do not start engine and if windless works then this probably the case.

Maine Sail · Jul 20, 2012

Goldfinger said:
On my 33fter the anchor windlass is wired so it can only work when the engine is running. This was set up by PO when the boat was in charter presumably to stop ignorant people running down the batteries.

However, I would like to have the windlass operate off the batteries when the engine isn't working in case, say, the motor dies and someone with limited strength needs to get the anchor out and can't do it manually.

Any ideas where I should start looking to rewire so I can get what I want.

Thanks in advance.

Using the windlass to break an anchor free can damage them. Get the anchor to approx 1:1 scope and let the boat do the work for you with sails or motor..... This will be far kinder to your windlass. Also a good idea to run the motor when using it as it will help to keep the voltage up at the windlass motor.

There must be a solenoid keyed off the ignition. Try turning the key on but not starting the motor to confirm. If that does not work most likely using the alarm circuit as a sense for the solenoid.

Chuckbear · Jul 20, 2012

You really are better off leaving the system as is and checking as MS suggested. We have a wiring diagram on our installation post for our windlass at http://trawler-beach-house.blogspot.com/2009/05/installing-electric-anchor-windlass.html . Chuck

Bill Roosa · Jul 20, 2012

Or you could just turn on the key and not hit the start button like MS indicated.
solved, lets go sailing!!!

Don12364 · Jul 20, 2012

I know the feeling.

I know the feeling. Middle of the night, the wind pipes up and you want to let out a bit more scope without waking the crew or the entire anchorage by starting your engine.

If you trace the heavy red & black wires back from the windlass you should come to a black unit about 4"x 5". This will be the reversing circuit breaker that controls the windlass up and down.
You will find thinner red and black wires connected to it. I would guess the red will probably go first to a breaker on the nav panel and then from there to the ignition switch. This is why the windlass doesn't run unless the switch is on.
You can either leave it there and operate the windlass by turning on the ignition but NOT starting the engine, or you can remove the wire altogether and insulate its end. Then fit a new wire from the breaker to the house or engine battery master switch. (or to the + feed to the panel.)

My boat came with the power for the windlass up & down fed from the engine battery but the power to operate the reversing breaker came from the house battery. This might be safer if the engine battery is low but I decided to power both windlass and breaker from the house battery.

onecoolair · Jul 20, 2012

Donalex said:
I know the feeling. Middle of the night, the wind pipes up and you want to let out a bit more scope without waking the crew or the entire anchorage by starting your engine.

If you trace the heavy red & black wires back from the windlass you should come to a black unit about 4"x 5". This will be the reversing circuit breaker that controls the windlass up and down.
You will find thinner red and black wires connected to it. I would guess the red will probably go first to a breaker on the nav panel and then from there to the ignition switch. This is why the windlass doesn't run unless the switch is on.
You can either leave it there and operate the windlass by turning on the ignition but NOT starting the engine, or you can remove the wire altogether and insulate its end. Then fit a new wire from the breaker to the house or engine battery master switch. (or to the + feed to the panel.)

My boat came with the power for the windlass up & down fed from the engine battery but the power to operate the reversing breaker came from the house battery. This might be safer if the engine battery is low but I decided to power both windlass and breaker from the house battery.

The black wire on my boat is likely to be 120 volt a/c. All 12volt dc ground is yellow. Green is 120 volt a/c ground. To be safe. Watch that you obey the national electrical color codeing standard for a/c and d/c.

Chuckbear · Jul 20, 2012

onecoolair said:
The black wire on my boat is likely to be 120 volt a/c. All 12volt dc ground is yellow. Green is 120 volt a/c ground. To be safe. Watch that you obey the national electrical color codeing standard for a/c and d/c.

Well, this is just not the case in most boats. Although builders are moving towards yellow DC ground, most boats are red positive and black negative for DC and yes the AC is black hot, white neutral and green ground. So the statement that all DC ground is yellow is way far from accurate. Chuck

Ron20324 · Jul 20, 2012

Chuckbear said:
So the statement that all DC ground is yellow is way far from accurate. Chuck

I read it as he was talking about on his own boat.

Maine Sail · Jul 20, 2012

onecoolair said:
The black wire on my boat is likely to be 120 volt a/c. All 12volt dc ground is yellow. Green is 120 volt a/c ground. To be safe. Watch that you obey the national electrical color codeing standard for a/c and d/c.

Yellow for DC ground is a relatively new alternate color for DC neg and one most builders of new boats are employing. It is the new "preferred" color but is not mandatory. That said black for DC neg is still acceptable under ABYC, NMMA and USCG standards and teh vast majority of the boats out there are wired with black DC neg.. Also green is not just AC ground but also bonding & lightning and the alternate color for that is green with a yellow tracer... Also inverters, chargers and inverter/chargers case ground with heavy gauge green wire of not less than one size below the DC wires...

onecoolair · Jul 20, 2012

Ron20324 said:
I read it as he was talking about on his own boat.

Thank you .....you are correct....that is exactly what I was pointing out. Just wanted people to be aware of the differences. And to not just assume that... that black wire is a 12v ground.
RR

onecoolair · Jul 20, 2012

Maine Sail said:
Yellow for DC ground is a relatively new alternate color for DC neg and one most builders of new boats are employing. It is the new "preferred" color but is not mandatory. That said black for DC neg is still acceptable under ABYC, NMMA and USCG standards and teh vast majority of the boats out there are wired with black DC neg.. Also green is not just AC ground but also bonding & lightning and the alternate color for that is green with a yellow tracer... Also inverters, chargers and inverter/chargers case ground with heavy gauge green wire of not less than one size below the DC wires...

Yes I would agree also.
RR

Don12364 · Jul 21, 2012

No Problem

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Don12364 · Jul 21, 2012

No Problem

Okay so your PO was a resourceful fellow and, as such, probably goes through life setting traps to catch the unwary - like myself sometimes!
It looks as if your red +ve feed to the breaker on the panel is from your oil pressure switch via a relay (Yellow/White Yanmar harness colours) because the oil warning light would never pass enough current to operate the windlass breakers.
No matter, my original suggestion will still work.

Do you have a windlass breaker/switch on your nav panel at the nav station?
If you do then it is only necessary to disconnect the feed wire from this switch - i.e. NOT the one to the up down breaker - and tape its end up so it cannot short to anything.
Then put a new red wire from the point on the switch where you just disconnected the previous wire and take the other end to the house or engine battery master switch. (or to the + feed to the panel if you can recognise this.)

Don12364 · Jul 23, 2012

Just For You,

I made the attached drawing of a 'typical' windlass installation.
If you have difficulty in understanding the diagram I suggest you get a marine electrical engineer on the job.

Original drawing now replaced with this one.

heritage · Jul 23, 2012

Why not add a switch in the system that would connect the battery directly to the foot switches. It would be easy to do: Install a 3-5 amp re-settable breaker/switch next to the main windlass circuit breaker. Run 12-14 awg wire from the windlass circuit breaker, through the switch, and terminating at the same connection near the foot switches as the "engine running" wire. Label the switch something like: Engine off windlass power.

The switch would normally be left in the off position, so the engine would have to be running to use the windlass. Then on those rare occasions like quiet hours or engine failure, then flip the switch on.

Ron20324 · Jul 23, 2012

Donalex said:
I made the attached drawing of a 'typical' windlass installation. If you have difficulty in understanding the diagram I suggest you get a marine electrical engineer on the job.

I supposed i could be wrong, but you're not going to reverse it unless you reverse the pos AND neg feed also??? I assume he has just + and - going into his windlass.

Windlass wiring help

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