Windlass operation

[SailingAway]

We recently purchased a 2006 Beneteau 343 with an electric Lewmar windlass. Can anybody help with its operation?

I turned on the engine to begin the operation of the windlass. I plugged in the up and down remote control into the anchor locker. However, I am not getting any response from the windlass. The manual indicates that there is a circuit breaker. But, I could not find a breaker that was labelled for the anchor. I turned on a bunch of the breakers as a effort to see if one of them would correspond to the windlass. No luck.

Any suggestions about what I am doing wrong?

 

[Rick I]

Was your engine running? The windlass only works when the engine is running. There is no breaker at the panel.

 

[SailingAway]

Was your engine running? The windlass only works when the engine is running. There is no breaker at the panel.

Thanks, Rick. Yes, I did have the engine running. But, no success. Any other suggestions?

 

[Gunni]

Special breaker

Look in the area where your battery cut-off switches are located - typically aft cabin. The windlass has a huge amp draw and requires a special high-amp breaker with a short run to the battery cables. Has a push-button reset. Anchors Aweigh!

 

[SailingAway]

Look in the area where your battery cut-off switches are located - typically aft cabin. The windlass has a huge amp draw and requires a special high-amp breaker with a short run to the battery cables. Has a push-button reset. Anchors Aweigh!

Thanks, Gunni. I will be at the boat today and will try your suggestion.

 

[Ron20324]

Any other suggestions?

It might not be necessary to have the engine running, like most charter boats do. Maybe yours IS that way, though. Look in the hanging lockers for the surface-mounted breaker. It's at leasst 70 amps if you have a 1000 windlass. Also, there is a small fuse (three amps or so) in the up/down switch hot feed. Maybe that is blown or dirty. That would most likely be located where the windlass relay is.

 

[SailingAway]

It might not be necessary to have the engine running, like most charter boats do. Maybe yours IS that way, though. Look in the hanging lockers for the surface-mounted breaker. It's at leasst 70 amps if you have a 1000 windlass. Also, there is a small fuse (three amps or so) in the up/down switch hot feed. Maybe that is blown or dirty. That would most likely be located where the windlass relay is.

Thanks, Ron. I did not know there was a fuse in the up/down switch. I will check that by the end of the week.

 

[Deadhead]

On my 343 the remote went bad. The dealer replaced it.

 

[larryw]

I second Gunni- I have a push/pull switch to turn the circuit on in the aft cabin. The engine doesn't HAVE to run, but it's better if it is. Your batteries will thank you. Check your remote plug and recepticle for corrosion, it only takes a minute spot. I like the rubber toe switches better, leaves your hands free.

 

[SailingAway]

I second Gunni- I have a push/pull switch to turn the circuit on in the aft cabin. The engine doesn't HAVE to run, but it's better if it is. Your batteries will thank you. Check your remote plug and recepticle for corrosion, it only takes a minute spot. I like the rubber toe switches better, leaves your hands free.

Thanks to everyone who provided suggestions. Problem solved! My electric windlass now works. It was a combination of suggestions that helped. Indeed, I must have the engine running. (I tried the up and down remote with the engine off, unsucessfully). I needed to lift up the black little switch in the aft cabin next to the battery switches.

It is great to be part of such a helpful boating community who provided quick and great suggestions. Thanks again.