Windlass installation First375

[s2fast4u]

Dear Bénéteau owners,

I just bought a windlass 1000W for my beneteau first 375 and I would really appreciate if other F375 owners could share with me some ideas on ''how to install'' this unit on my boat! There's already a factory shelf installed in the locker and I'm wondering if I can install the windlass on this shelf....maybe I'll have to reinforce it with a laminated plywood!

Thank you so much in advance!

 

[Tejas]

I installed a 1000W Quick Hector Windlass on the factory installed shelf of our First 36.7. The shelf was solid fiberglass and not cored. On the underside of the platform a full-sized stainless steel backing plate. The only mistake I can think of was the lack of angled mounting to ensure a perfect lead angle.

 

[s2fast4u]

Hi Tejas,

Thank you for sharing these détails with me! Can you elaborate a bit more for the ''missing angled mounting''? Do you mean that the gipsy is located a bit low and that it would be preferable to mount it higher on the Platform in order to get a better alignment between the windlass and the Anchor roller? Do you have any pics of your installation?

Kind regards

 

[Tejas]

The Quick windlass we installed is a horizontal windlass. I think that there were two fairlead angles to consider, both from the anchor roller to the gypsy. The horizontal angle we got correctly. I didn't sufficiently consider the vertical angle and mounted the windlass as high as could on 1" starboard marine lumber, and chain still came down at a slight but noticeable angle to the gypsy. I think I should have fabricated a deck block that was higher in the front than in the back for a perfect fairlead. I could still make that correction, but I haven't yet.

I don't have pictures of the windlass installed. Here is a picture of the anchor locker before installation. Not shown is the repositioned cleat. I could try to take and post some pictures later.

http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx61/Tejasdave/AnchorLocker2_zps482e309a.jpg

In addition to the the stainless steel backing plate, I also replaced the short narrow stainless steel chaff bar with full length stainless steel plate.

Another installation consideration was routing the wiring into the anchor well. The wiring enters the bottom of the anchor locker from below the forward berth. To avoid water running into the bilge, the wiring is run through a through-hull and then through tubing up the windlass.

Also installed are two remote outlets, one in the locker and the other at the helm.

For drilling the mounting holes and the hole for wiring, I made a hardwood drill-guide jig that I clamped onto the shelf. The jig was also useful for fabricating the backing plate.

One almost disaster was that to be able to remove or replace the windlass cover, the windlass needed to be mounted further forward than I had initially planned. The installation specifications did not mention this and the discovery was serendipitious.

 

[Ron20324]

Y'alls 36/37 looks like my 323 shelf. I installed a Lewmar 1000. To get the port-stbd location where the gypsie should be, I ran a string from the center of the roller, centered on the roller bracket and then centered the gypsie. I put the windlass on a 1.25 inch piece of teak to raise it as much as it would go without hitting the locker's lid. This I did to increase the angle from the roller to be UPHILL to the windlass, thus to increase the amount the gypsie grabs the rode. /// While you are in the anchor locker, I strongly suggest you get a second anchor locker drain fitting. Locate it a couple inches above the OEM in case the OEM drain clogs. This clog would raise the locker water to a level where it could flow into the cabin areas.