Second time luck with this post, any thoughts on the best electric anchor windlass for the H40 ? Has anyone modified the chain locker to allow chain into the hull up forward? If so has water retention in the area been an issue? The drain would be inadequate I think in pounding conditions.
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Power is prime
Many models on the market. My only suggestion is to choose a unit that is powerful enough so it can pull the anchor and chain up, moving the boat to over the anchor, without you having to motor up to the over-anchor location. This means also putting in thick enough cables so that the extra current can be delivered to the windlass without tripping the breaker. The reason for my suggestion is that the windlass in my 356 is too small to do that (Hunter saved some money) and though it is not that big a pain to have to motor over the anchor, the downsides are that it demands more and better communications between the person at the wheel and the person on the bow (not a recommended way to improve marital harmony), and also if someday you can't start the engine and there is wind or current then there is no way to retrieve the anchor. I recently chartered a Jenneau 40 the the BVIs which did have a more powerful windlass and I sure appreciated having it. Ivan Bekey s/v "Victoria"
Many models on the market. My only suggestion is to choose a unit that is powerful enough so it can pull the anchor and chain up, moving the boat to over the anchor, without you having to motor up to the over-anchor location. This means also putting in thick enough cables so that the extra current can be delivered to the windlass without tripping the breaker. The reason for my suggestion is that the windlass in my 356 is too small to do that (Hunter saved some money) and though it is not that big a pain to have to motor over the anchor, the downsides are that it demands more and better communications between the person at the wheel and the person on the bow (not a recommended way to improve marital harmony), and also if someday you can't start the engine and there is wind or current then there is no way to retrieve the anchor. I recently chartered a Jenneau 40 the the BVIs which did have a more powerful windlass and I sure appreciated having it. Ivan Bekey s/v "Victoria"
Simpson Lawerence
I installed a Simpson Lawerence "Anchorman" manual windlass in my 1987 h40 #217. As Ivan said, get a windlass big enough to pull your boat in at least moderate breeze. Good points on my installation: fits easily and lets me drop 200 feet of 5/8 nylon plus 100 feet of 5/16 chain into the existing locker even when I have my 33 lb Bruce stored in the locker. I use a 45 lb CQR as my primary anchor. Bad point: 550 lb pull isn't enough. The Simpson Lawrence 1000G would probably be my pick for a electric job. At 60 amps it needs some really heavy wiring - probably AGW #2. I installed the windlass just aft of the anchor locker hatch with a backup plate of 3/4" pressure treated plywood below the deck. I open the locker hatch to use the windlass. At anchor, I take the rode off of the windlass, secure it and a snubber to the big cleat in the locker and close the hatch. In your case the electric motor would stick down into the V-berth just behind the chain locker. By the way, I keep my boat Windrose three slips from Ivan's Victoria. Good luck. Let us know via a post what you finally get and how it works out.
I installed a Simpson Lawerence "Anchorman" manual windlass in my 1987 h40 #217. As Ivan said, get a windlass big enough to pull your boat in at least moderate breeze. Good points on my installation: fits easily and lets me drop 200 feet of 5/8 nylon plus 100 feet of 5/16 chain into the existing locker even when I have my 33 lb Bruce stored in the locker. I use a 45 lb CQR as my primary anchor. Bad point: 550 lb pull isn't enough. The Simpson Lawrence 1000G would probably be my pick for a electric job. At 60 amps it needs some really heavy wiring - probably AGW #2. I installed the windlass just aft of the anchor locker hatch with a backup plate of 3/4" pressure treated plywood below the deck. I open the locker hatch to use the windlass. At anchor, I take the rode off of the windlass, secure it and a snubber to the big cleat in the locker and close the hatch. In your case the electric motor would stick down into the V-berth just behind the chain locker. By the way, I keep my boat Windrose three slips from Ivan's Victoria. Good luck. Let us know via a post what you finally get and how it works out.
question on the anchorman
i have an 40 with the anchorman- it came with the wrong size chain from the previous owner so the only experence i have is that it jams like crazy- i assume that when i get the proper size it will work. it also had no manuel- i found some info and the manuel online but i am confused about using rope with it- do you need an attachment for the gypsy to use rope or will it work as is?
i have an 40 with the anchorman- it came with the wrong size chain from the previous owner so the only experence i have is that it jams like crazy- i assume that when i get the proper size it will work. it also had no manuel- i found some info and the manuel online but i am confused about using rope with it- do you need an attachment for the gypsy to use rope or will it work as is?
Anchorman answer
We have ACC (American Chain and Cable) 5/16 HT chain spliced to 5/8 three-strand nylon. Both run flawlessly through the gypsy. I spliced the nylon to the chain using the instructions that came with the windlass. Ask Simpson Lawrence for a manual. Simpson Lawrence USA, Inc 6208 28th Street East Bradenton FL 34203-4123 (941) 753-7533
We have ACC (American Chain and Cable) 5/16 HT chain spliced to 5/8 three-strand nylon. Both run flawlessly through the gypsy. I spliced the nylon to the chain using the instructions that came with the windlass. Ask Simpson Lawrence for a manual. Simpson Lawrence USA, Inc 6208 28th Street East Bradenton FL 34203-4123 (941) 753-7533
More on anchorman
There are four gipsies available for the Anchorman. We have Gipsy RC172 with a nominal one inch pitch. It handles 1/4" G-7; 5/16" BBB or HT; and a number of 8mm chains. Gipsy RC162 handles 3/8 " BBB and some 10 mm chains. Gipsies 180 and 181 handle 9/32" and 6 mm chains respectively. The Anchorman Manual has more complete info as may some catalogues.
There are four gipsies available for the Anchorman. We have Gipsy RC172 with a nominal one inch pitch. It handles 1/4" G-7; 5/16" BBB or HT; and a number of 8mm chains. Gipsy RC162 handles 3/8 " BBB and some 10 mm chains. Gipsies 180 and 181 handle 9/32" and 6 mm chains respectively. The Anchorman Manual has more complete info as may some catalogues.
re:anchorman
carl- i believe i have the 172- i saw a winchlike drum on the top of some gypsies and i was wondering if i needed that for the rope rode besides the chain gypsy. the downloaded instructions are not clear if you need the drum or not- thanks
carl- i believe i have the 172- i saw a winchlike drum on the top of some gypsies and i was wondering if i needed that for the rope rode besides the chain gypsy. the downloaded instructions are not clear if you need the drum or not- thanks
Anchorman gypsy
I also have the 172 on my anchorman and it takes up my 5/16 chain beautifully. when it gets to the "rope" it just keeps chuggin and takes it up i do not swith to the drum love the system sure saves the back their manuals are very good in sizing chain to gypsy Some people insist the only way to do it is take the gypsy to the chain or vice versa but i think if you stay within the manualparameters you should be fine t
I also have the 172 on my anchorman and it takes up my 5/16 chain beautifully. when it gets to the "rope" it just keeps chuggin and takes it up i do not swith to the drum love the system sure saves the back their manuals are very good in sizing chain to gypsy Some people insist the only way to do it is take the gypsy to the chain or vice versa but i think if you stay within the manualparameters you should be fine t
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