I'd like to install a manual windlass on my 35.5. Anyone have any knowledge about what windlass works best and is easiest to install?
Windlass for 35.5
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Manual? That's a rare bird. Why manual?
Most windlasses on the market now are electric. The small Lewmar on my H34 is more than adequate.
Most windlasses on the market now are electric. The small Lewmar on my H34 is more than adequate.
Hugh....the BEST windlass is your iron genny.
If you have rode and not all chain, then don't cleat it off at the bow. Run it through something, like a bow anchor roller, then back to a winch (and then cleat if you feel the need) in the cockpit. When you are ready to go, start the engine and put it in idle forward. As you go forward, pull in the rode from the cockpit. When you get close to the chain part of the rode, put the engine in reverse and circle around to the windward side of the anchor (this also helps break it loose). Put it in neutral and go forward and pull in the chain as you drift towards the anchor. What makes this the best windlass? Lets say the anchor alarm goes off and you come out and see a boat pulled up right behind you. You now only have 30 feet between boats and maybe 10 before your prop is touching his rode. If you had a windlass and ran up and used it to pull in the anchor, you would still drag into him. If you started up the motor and went forward with the anchor cleated at the bow you would foul your prop with your rode. BUT...by having the rode cleated in the cockpit, you could start up the engine, put it in gear and pull in the rode all at the same time while the first mate is still sleeping and it's very easy to pull in rode when the iron genny is pushing the boat forward. Makes for a happier morning for all
If you have rode and not all chain, then don't cleat it off at the bow. Run it through something, like a bow anchor roller, then back to a winch (and then cleat if you feel the need) in the cockpit. When you are ready to go, start the engine and put it in idle forward. As you go forward, pull in the rode from the cockpit. When you get close to the chain part of the rode, put the engine in reverse and circle around to the windward side of the anchor (this also helps break it loose). Put it in neutral and go forward and pull in the chain as you drift towards the anchor. What makes this the best windlass? Lets say the anchor alarm goes off and you come out and see a boat pulled up right behind you. You now only have 30 feet between boats and maybe 10 before your prop is touching his rode. If you had a windlass and ran up and used it to pull in the anchor, you would still drag into him. If you started up the motor and went forward with the anchor cleated at the bow you would foul your prop with your rode. BUT...by having the rode cleated in the cockpit, you could start up the engine, put it in gear and pull in the rode all at the same time while the first mate is still sleeping and it's very easy to pull in rode when the iron genny is pushing the boat forward. Makes for a happier morning for all
windlass is an extra mate
franklin has a very good point, exactly y my lofrans vertical progress 1000 has a remote back at the helm. The advantage I find with the ele. windlass, one in rough seas no worries about losing a finger or 2, and second, on and unfortunate grounding it works like a winch on the front of my jeep. Would always recomend a step larger for a windlass. Bill
franklin has a very good point, exactly y my lofrans vertical progress 1000 has a remote back at the helm. The advantage I find with the ele. windlass, one in rough seas no worries about losing a finger or 2, and second, on and unfortunate grounding it works like a winch on the front of my jeep. Would always recomend a step larger for a windlass. Bill
happened this past weekend.
This past weekend I anchored in soft mud. Went through my normal anchoring process of backing down (first try it didn't set) on my anchor at 2000 RPMs for 3 minutes on a 7:1 scope. Had a good hold so I pulled in to a 5:1 scope because of that powerboat that wanted to anchor behind me. Saw somebody else drag just as it got dark and thought he didn't set his. 7 hours later at 3 am I dragged after the wind shifted directions and picked up to 18 knots. Damn danforth I'm buying my a hugh Bulwagga soon. I want something that if it comes up, it will reset itself quickly and that's the strength of the Bulwagga.
This past weekend I anchored in soft mud. Went through my normal anchoring process of backing down (first try it didn't set) on my anchor at 2000 RPMs for 3 minutes on a 7:1 scope. Had a good hold so I pulled in to a 5:1 scope because of that powerboat that wanted to anchor behind me. Saw somebody else drag just as it got dark and thought he didn't set his. 7 hours later at 3 am I dragged after the wind shifted directions and picked up to 18 knots. Damn danforth
I'm buying my a hugh Bulwagga soon. I want something that if it comes up, it will reset itself quickly and that's the strength of the Bulwagga.
I'm very happy with our 40 pound Danforth...
In the past three years we've anchored maybe 100 times or more. Only once did it drag and that was in an anchorage notorious for poor holding; thin layer of mud over shale. Wind shifts, storm force winds, etc. still held. There were times it was in so deep that it was a question whether it would come up. We always use a 20 pound kellet, which seems to help. Terry
In the past three years we've anchored maybe 100 times or more. Only once did it drag and that was in an anchorage notorious for poor holding; thin layer of mud over shale. Wind shifts, storm force winds, etc. still held. There were times it was in so deep that it was a question whether it would come up. We always use a 20 pound kellet, which seems to help. Terry
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