I am installing a wind generator on my P-42 (1992) We have dual house banks and a inverter, a battery selector switch dedicated to the house banks and a seperate switch dedicated to the starter battery. My question is if I attach the Wind G charge wires to one house bank and keep the battery selector switch on both will both sets of batteries be charged by the wind generator. Or do I have to split the wire from the generator and run a wire to each housebank positive terminal. I also have a battery charge controller for the generator and a resistive load heat sink to dissapate excess voltage. Do I have to connect both batteries to this or will running wires to one and keeping the selector switch on both protect both banks from overcharge. Thanks
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DonH99
Better Hookup
I'd run the output + side of the wind generator either to the "common" (middle lug) of the House bank switch or to a spot on the back of your breaker panel. Going to the HB switch will allow you to selectively charge either house battery or both depending on the position selected. The - side of the wind generator needs to be tied into a DC 12v ground that is always connected to the - on the battery post or engine. On my P42 (a 1993 which I just purchased), I am currently going to replace the ON/Off Starter Battery switch with a 3 way type so that I can choose and direct the alternator and all other charging to the Starter Battery (Position 1), the House Bank (Position 2) or Both. The House Bank led will then be further sub-divided by the existing switch between House 1, House 2, or both. This will also allow me to easily select my house batteries if necessary to start the engine or generator. If you adopt this set up then the Wind Generator + and all other 12v+ charging should run to the "common" lug on the new switch. It is not a good idea however to charge the starter battery (a 24/27 not the same capacity as the HB)and HB batteries together as the Charging sensing cicuits will sense the battery level with the highest charge and react accordingly. Thus you have to manually switch to where you want/need the charge to go. Charging on Both (ie. Starter and HB) will will not result in completely charging the HB. You can use a battery isolater to accomplish this automatically, but you pay a penalty by the voltage reduction from the isolator. Note: The new Starter/HB Battery switch should never be turned to "Off" with the engine running as this will blow the diodes in the alternator. But this would happen with the existing Starter On/Off switch too. This setup also assumes that you have batteries of the same type (e.g. all wet cell and not a mixture). Good luck, if you have different battery types as they all have different and specific charging rate requirements. Hope this helps - Don
I'd run the output + side of the wind generator either to the "common" (middle lug) of the House bank switch or to a spot on the back of your breaker panel. Going to the HB switch will allow you to selectively charge either house battery or both depending on the position selected. The - side of the wind generator needs to be tied into a DC 12v ground that is always connected to the - on the battery post or engine. On my P42 (a 1993 which I just purchased), I am currently going to replace the ON/Off Starter Battery switch with a 3 way type so that I can choose and direct the alternator and all other charging to the Starter Battery (Position 1), the House Bank (Position 2) or Both. The House Bank led will then be further sub-divided by the existing switch between House 1, House 2, or both. This will also allow me to easily select my house batteries if necessary to start the engine or generator. If you adopt this set up then the Wind Generator + and all other 12v+ charging should run to the "common" lug on the new switch. It is not a good idea however to charge the starter battery (a 24/27 not the same capacity as the HB)and HB batteries together as the Charging sensing cicuits will sense the battery level with the highest charge and react accordingly. Thus you have to manually switch to where you want/need the charge to go. Charging on Both (ie. Starter and HB) will will not result in completely charging the HB. You can use a battery isolater to accomplish this automatically, but you pay a penalty by the voltage reduction from the isolator. Note: The new Starter/HB Battery switch should never be turned to "Off" with the engine running as this will blow the diodes in the alternator. But this would happen with the existing Starter On/Off switch too. This setup also assumes that you have batteries of the same type (e.g. all wet cell and not a mixture). Good luck, if you have different battery types as they all have different and specific charging rate requirements. Hope this helps - Don
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Paul
wait a minute...
There is absolutely nothing wrong with charging batteries of different sizes (groups) at the same time, as long as they have the same chemistry. Current wisdom says to get rid of the 3-way switch in favor of individual switches, such as those you have already. Read the literature at amplepower.com or the West Advisor article on the same subject and you'll see why. The answer to charging two banks from a single source is a battery combiner. It lets you keep the batteries' discharge circuits separate while combining the batteries when a charge source is present. Combiners are a bit expensive ($100 - $150) but worth every penny after you wake up on Sunday morning and realize you forgot to take that 3-way switch out of the ALL/BOTH position and you've run down your starter battery -- at anchor. Good luck, Paul sv Escape Artist h336
There is absolutely nothing wrong with charging batteries of different sizes (groups) at the same time, as long as they have the same chemistry. Current wisdom says to get rid of the 3-way switch in favor of individual switches, such as those you have already. Read the literature at amplepower.com or the West Advisor article on the same subject and you'll see why. The answer to charging two banks from a single source is a battery combiner. It lets you keep the batteries' discharge circuits separate while combining the batteries when a charge source is present. Combiners are a bit expensive ($100 - $150) but worth every penny after you wake up on Sunday morning and realize you forgot to take that 3-way switch out of the ALL/BOTH position and you've run down your starter battery -- at anchor. Good luck, Paul sv Escape Artist h336
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Don Hadyk
24/27 vs 8D Charging
If you think that you can charge a 24/27 and 8D's from a single source and have them all reach full charge at the same time you're dreaming. Yes an isolator or combiner will differentiate, but you will have significantly longer charge times due to the inherent voltage loss by the diodes. In the case of a direct connected charging source going to all the batteries with different capacities, the alternator regulator will read the battery with the the highest voltage and reduce the output accordingly regardless of the fact that the other batteries are not fully charged. Thus charging with the switch to "Both" Starter and House Batteries will work but will result in some of the batteries being less then fully charged. Most likely the 8D's. I like the option of knowing and deciding what needs to be charged efficiently by the alternator and also being able to use my House batteries to start the engine/generator if I need to. Even though it is less efficient for my Wind Generator and solar panels I do run them through a regulator and then an isolator since they are connected all the time. Re: the West Marine example, I don't agree that it is the best approach. I have enough trouble with two switches.
If you think that you can charge a 24/27 and 8D's from a single source and have them all reach full charge at the same time you're dreaming. Yes an isolator or combiner will differentiate, but you will have significantly longer charge times due to the inherent voltage loss by the diodes. In the case of a direct connected charging source going to all the batteries with different capacities, the alternator regulator will read the battery with the the highest voltage and reduce the output accordingly regardless of the fact that the other batteries are not fully charged. Thus charging with the switch to "Both" Starter and House Batteries will work but will result in some of the batteries being less then fully charged. Most likely the 8D's. I like the option of knowing and deciding what needs to be charged efficiently by the alternator and also being able to use my House batteries to start the engine/generator if I need to. Even though it is less efficient for my Wind Generator and solar panels I do run them through a regulator and then an isolator since they are connected all the time. Re: the West Marine example, I don't agree that it is the best approach. I have enough trouble with two switches.
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Ed Schenck
Agree with Don, . . .
simpler is better. Connect any charging source(excepting alternator) to the house batteries, preferably through a regulator. A combiner is nice but optional. The alternator is connected to the batteries through the battery switch. Start and run diesel in #1 on rare occasions and charge the starter battery. Never use #1 for anything else. I have a combiner but I don't worry about it, the Link 2000 always shows the starter battery at 13.75. Most of the time my switch is on #2, for starting, motoring, and all other uses.
simpler is better. Connect any charging source(excepting alternator) to the house batteries, preferably through a regulator. A combiner is nice but optional. The alternator is connected to the batteries through the battery switch. Start and run diesel in #1 on rare occasions and charge the starter battery. Never use #1 for anything else. I have a combiner but I don't worry about it, the Link 2000 always shows the starter battery at 13.75. Most of the time my switch is on #2, for starting, motoring, and all other uses.
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Terry
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carisea
Wind Generator location
I mounted the Kiss generator on a 10 aluminum pole about 6 inches to port of center on the aft push pit rail. With the p-42 having dual exits down the sugar scoop and the fact that I already have a dinghy motor davit mounted near the port exit I felt this was the least obtrusive location. Iran a strut from the stainless arch to the pole to support the mast fore -aft Then I ran a strut from the push pit rail to the mast to support port to starboard . The pole is mounted, at the base, on a electrical heavy duty conduit to panel box connector. The wire goes thru the deck to a location behind the rudder post at the head of the aft berth. a control box(AC to DC conversion and shut off) is mounted at this location and the lead wires pass under the berth and the cabin sole to the engine room. The wires are directconnected to the house battery bank #1 and I am going to leave the battery selector switch on both. I was told this will charge both house banks. Keep in mind the starter battery is on a seperate circuit and will not be charged by this generator. I will put a small solar panel on board to charge that battery. I also have a charge controller and diversion heat sink to protect the house banks from overcharging even though I think the refrig/freezer will never let that happen especially when we take off to the caribbean
I mounted the Kiss generator on a 10 aluminum pole about 6 inches to port of center on the aft push pit rail. With the p-42 having dual exits down the sugar scoop and the fact that I already have a dinghy motor davit mounted near the port exit I felt this was the least obtrusive location. Iran a strut from the stainless arch to the pole to support the mast fore -aft Then I ran a strut from the push pit rail to the mast to support port to starboard . The pole is mounted, at the base, on a electrical heavy duty conduit to panel box connector. The wire goes thru the deck to a location behind the rudder post at the head of the aft berth. a control box(AC to DC conversion and shut off) is mounted at this location and the lead wires pass under the berth and the cabin sole to the engine room. The wires are directconnected to the house battery bank #1 and I am going to leave the battery selector switch on both. I was told this will charge both house banks. Keep in mind the starter battery is on a seperate circuit and will not be charged by this generator. I will put a small solar panel on board to charge that battery. I also have a charge controller and diversion heat sink to protect the house banks from overcharging even though I think the refrig/freezer will never let that happen especially when we take off to the caribbean
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carisea
original question
I appreciate the response from all but I need to make clear that the starter battery is on a separate circuit and selector switch. It will not be charged by the wind generator. So my question again is do I need to split the charge wire and run to both house battery bank +terminals or can I run to 1 bank and leave the dual house bank selector switch on BOTH and charge both banks
I appreciate the response from all but I need to make clear that the starter battery is on a separate circuit and selector switch. It will not be charged by the wind generator. So my question again is do I need to split the charge wire and run to both house battery bank +terminals or can I run to 1 bank and leave the dual house bank selector switch on BOTH and charge both banks
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Don Hadyk
WG Hook UP
Going directly to a battery post from your regulator with the Selector switch set to ALL will result in the regulator sensing the highest voltage in either battery and adjusting the voltage based on the highest voltage present. This will result in one of the batteries being undercharged. Also with the ALL setting the other battery will attempt to charge the undercharged battery when the WG is not charging - not a good thing. I would run from the WG to your regulator and from the regulator to the common on the 3 way Selector switch. Then you can manually switch the WG charge between Battery #1, #2 or All. The regulator will prevent any overcharging on any of the settings. However keep in mind the restrictions I described for the ALL setting. The back of the Selector switch is easy to get at by just pulling the Starter Battery out. While your at it you might want to replace the existing ON/OFF Starter Selector switch with a new Perko 3 way (you do not need the one that has the alternator disconnect). I just did it on my 42 to allow me to easily use the House Batteries to jump start the Engine/Generator if I have a low/dead Starter battery. I ran an 18" #4 Battery cable from the Common on the HB switch to position #2 on the new 3 way. Position #1 is for the connection to the Starting Battery. Thus I can start with the Starting Battery, HB or ALL. Th HB selector switch further allows me to select between #1, #2 or ALL. Depending on how your alternator is hooked up this set up may also allow you to select what battery you want charged by the alternator. I rewired my alternator B+ terminal directly to the Starter Selenoid + terminal with another 18" #4 battery cable and disconnected the original connection going to the isolator. This allows me to charge to any battery selected by the Selector switches. I don't know what type of voltage regulator you have on your alternator (internal/external) but you will have to be sure that if it external exciting that the exciting connection is correct otherwise the alternator will not charge. I also replaced my alternator with a new high output alternator, which I wanted to go directly to the Batteries. Found a great deal on a 100 amp alternator which was an exact replacement for the original Yanmar alternator and it has an internal 3 stage voltage regulator built in. If your interested, it is sold by the Battery Shack in Marathon, FL for $249. They have a website: www.thefloridakeys.com/batteryshack or 1-800-860-4794 talk to Capt. Bill. Hope all this helps - Don
Going directly to a battery post from your regulator with the Selector switch set to ALL will result in the regulator sensing the highest voltage in either battery and adjusting the voltage based on the highest voltage present. This will result in one of the batteries being undercharged. Also with the ALL setting the other battery will attempt to charge the undercharged battery when the WG is not charging - not a good thing. I would run from the WG to your regulator and from the regulator to the common on the 3 way Selector switch. Then you can manually switch the WG charge between Battery #1, #2 or All. The regulator will prevent any overcharging on any of the settings. However keep in mind the restrictions I described for the ALL setting. The back of the Selector switch is easy to get at by just pulling the Starter Battery out. While your at it you might want to replace the existing ON/OFF Starter Selector switch with a new Perko 3 way (you do not need the one that has the alternator disconnect). I just did it on my 42 to allow me to easily use the House Batteries to jump start the Engine/Generator if I have a low/dead Starter battery. I ran an 18" #4 Battery cable from the Common on the HB switch to position #2 on the new 3 way. Position #1 is for the connection to the Starting Battery. Thus I can start with the Starting Battery, HB or ALL. Th HB selector switch further allows me to select between #1, #2 or ALL. Depending on how your alternator is hooked up this set up may also allow you to select what battery you want charged by the alternator. I rewired my alternator B+ terminal directly to the Starter Selenoid + terminal with another 18" #4 battery cable and disconnected the original connection going to the isolator. This allows me to charge to any battery selected by the Selector switches. I don't know what type of voltage regulator you have on your alternator (internal/external) but you will have to be sure that if it external exciting that the exciting connection is correct otherwise the alternator will not charge. I also replaced my alternator with a new high output alternator, which I wanted to go directly to the Batteries. Found a great deal on a 100 amp alternator which was an exact replacement for the original Yanmar alternator and it has an internal 3 stage voltage regulator built in. If your interested, it is sold by the Battery Shack in Marathon, FL for $249. They have a website: www.thefloridakeys.com/batteryshack or 1-800-860-4794 talk to Capt. Bill. Hope all this helps - Don
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