I have a 1979 25 and wanted to mount organizer and winch to the cabin roof. Archive post says you should cut into the headliner to put in a backing block for the winch, and also for access to back the organizer or clutches. Do you actually cut out a piece of the headliner large enough to put the backing block against the cabin top? I dont see how you could just make a cut in the headliner and slip in the backing block for the winch. Any advise on how to do the installation with backing, would be appreciated. Hank Schloemer
winch backing plate
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I have a 1979 25 and wanted to mount organizer and winch to the cabin roof. Archive post says you should cut into the headliner to put in a backing block for the winch, and also for access to back the organizer or clutches. Do you actually cut out a piece of the headliner large enough to put the backing block against the cabin top? I dont see how you could just make a cut in the headliner and slip in the backing block for the winch. Any advise on how to do the installation with backing, would be appreciated. Hank Schloemer
You cut out the headliner, then cover the void with something later. I don't think you need a winch. I had triple clutches put on both sides of the companionway. There is room behind for winches, but I've never needed them. On the port side I run the topping lift, headsail halyard and single line reef. On the starboard side I have the vang, boom downhaul and main halyard. The only line that requires effort is the main halyard. McLube Sailkote in the mast track helps a lot. If I need more pulling power, I run the halyard down under a coaming cleat to the jib winch.
You cut out the headliner, then cover the void with something later. I don't think you need a winch. I had triple clutches put on both sides of the companionway. There is room behind for winches, but I've never needed them. On the port side I run the topping lift, headsail halyard and single line reef. On the starboard side I have the vang, boom downhaul and main halyard. The only line that requires effort is the main halyard. McLube Sailkote in the mast track helps a lot. If I need more pulling power, I run the halyard down under a coaming cleat to the jib winch.
winch or not
Ed I think your probably correct. Easier and less cluttered the way you suggest, and I can always add a winch later if needed. Did you back the clutches by cutting the liner open as you suggest with the winch? Hank
Ed I think your probably correct. Easier and less cluttered the way you suggest, and I can always add a winch later if needed. Did you back the clutches by cutting the liner open as you suggest with the winch? Hank
winch or not
Ed I think your probably correct. Easier and less cluttered the way you suggest, and I can always add a winch later if needed. Did you back the clutches by cutting the liner open as you suggest with the winch? Hank
Ed I think your probably correct. Easier and less cluttered the way you suggest, and I can always add a winch later if needed. Did you back the clutches by cutting the liner open as you suggest with the winch? Hank
Try not making a mess!
Hank, you already know that the head liner and the cabin top were molded together. After thier farication and that there are voids. I would take advantage of that. Drill a 1/8" hole and use a syringe with epoxy to fill the void between the headliner and the cabin top. Since you are going to use a backing plate, you can drill a few test holes to make sure you filled the space. If not, just pump some more epoxy in that space. Then just tru bolt it with a backing plate of good taste that is exposed with no patches in the headliner. hope this helps, r.w.landau Another better idea: drill all your mounting holes. tape them from below then with a syringe fill the void from above until the holes are filled. then redrill the holes and mount your piece.
Hank, you already know that the head liner and the cabin top were molded together. After thier farication and that there are voids. I would take advantage of that. Drill a 1/8" hole and use a syringe with epoxy to fill the void between the headliner and the cabin top. Since you are going to use a backing plate, you can drill a few test holes to make sure you filled the space. If not, just pump some more epoxy in that space. Then just tru bolt it with a backing plate of good taste that is exposed with no patches in the headliner. hope this helps, r.w.landau Another better idea: drill all your mounting holes. tape them from below then with a syringe fill the void from above until the holes are filled. then redrill the holes and mount your piece.
Try not making a mess!
Hank, you already know that the head liner and the cabin top were molded together. After thier farication and that there are voids. I would take advantage of that. Drill a 1/8" hole and use a syringe with epoxy to fill the void between the headliner and the cabin top. Since you are going to use a backing plate, you can drill a few test holes to make sure you filled the space. If not, just pump some more epoxy in that space. Then just tru bolt it with a backing plate of good taste that is exposed with no patches in the headliner. hope this helps, r.w.landau Another better idea: drill all your mounting holes. tape them from below then with a syringe fill the void from above until the holes are filled. then redrill the holes and mount your piece.
Hank, you already know that the head liner and the cabin top were molded together. After thier farication and that there are voids. I would take advantage of that. Drill a 1/8" hole and use a syringe with epoxy to fill the void between the headliner and the cabin top. Since you are going to use a backing plate, you can drill a few test holes to make sure you filled the space. If not, just pump some more epoxy in that space. Then just tru bolt it with a backing plate of good taste that is exposed with no patches in the headliner. hope this helps, r.w.landau Another better idea: drill all your mounting holes. tape them from below then with a syringe fill the void from above until the holes are filled. then redrill the holes and mount your piece.
re:winch or not
The mounting holes were drilled from the outside, then a hole saw followed the holes inside to remove overlapping disks of headliner. The load on the mounting hardware is shear not tension, so the amount of backing plate is not as much a concern as for a stand up jib sheet block that might be mounted on deck. I just have thick fender washers for backing.
The mounting holes were drilled from the outside, then a hole saw followed the holes inside to remove overlapping disks of headliner. The load on the mounting hardware is shear not tension, so the amount of backing plate is not as much a concern as for a stand up jib sheet block that might be mounted on deck. I just have thick fender washers for backing.
re:winch or not
The mounting holes were drilled from the outside, then a hole saw followed the holes inside to remove overlapping disks of headliner. The load on the mounting hardware is shear not tension, so the amount of backing plate is not as much a concern as for a stand up jib sheet block that might be mounted on deck. I just have thick fender washers for backing.
The mounting holes were drilled from the outside, then a hole saw followed the holes inside to remove overlapping disks of headliner. The load on the mounting hardware is shear not tension, so the amount of backing plate is not as much a concern as for a stand up jib sheet block that might be mounted on deck. I just have thick fender washers for backing.
Backing plates
Ed and RW. Thanks for the suggestions. I might try RW's idea using thickened epoxy and see if it fills the hole voids. I have used clear epoxy and a syringe in an effort to fill old screw holes in the top before, but it was too thin and never closed the hole. If the thickened epoxy doesn't work, then Ed's idea will be used. Great ideas Thanks Hank
Ed and RW. Thanks for the suggestions. I might try RW's idea using thickened epoxy and see if it fills the hole voids. I have used clear epoxy and a syringe in an effort to fill old screw holes in the top before, but it was too thin and never closed the hole. If the thickened epoxy doesn't work, then Ed's idea will be used. Great ideas Thanks Hank
Backing plates
Ed and RW. Thanks for the suggestions. I might try RW's idea using thickened epoxy and see if it fills the hole voids. I have used clear epoxy and a syringe in an effort to fill old screw holes in the top before, but it was too thin and never closed the hole. If the thickened epoxy doesn't work, then Ed's idea will be used. Great ideas Thanks Hank
Ed and RW. Thanks for the suggestions. I might try RW's idea using thickened epoxy and see if it fills the hole voids. I have used clear epoxy and a syringe in an effort to fill old screw holes in the top before, but it was too thin and never closed the hole. If the thickened epoxy doesn't work, then Ed's idea will be used. Great ideas Thanks Hank
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