Willcox Crittenden Head - can't stop water in

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Sep 27, 2008
224
Hunter 41 Longport,NJ
Hi - looking to see if I can fix this problem without replacing the head or the entire rebuild kit. Even on Pump Dry mode water slowley comes in filling the bowl and then overflowing - looks clean. Older (1981 ish) WC Headmate. Only solution is to close the intake valve. Suggestions for what part is causing the problem, purchase rebuild kit or complete replacement ?

Jim
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,946
- - LIttle Rock
You'll find what passes for an installation/maintenance manual here:

http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PARTS/PermanentToilets/Headmate/tabid/575/Default.aspx

On page 3, you'll find the following sentence: "If Toilet is installed at or near the waterline, a vented loop must be used with any connections to an overboard fitting. On the intake side, the vented loop must be installed between Pump and Bowl."

That instruction leaves out a very important part: It also must be at least 6-8" above waterline AT ANY ANGLE OF HEEL...which, on most sailboats, puts it about 3 FEET above the bowl.


Installing the vented loop will solve your problem. This applies to ALL manual toilets, not just the WC Headmate.

Fwiw, the average life of any compact manual toilet is <10 years...so while your boat may be 1981 model, it's highly unlike that your toilet--at least the pump, anyway--is still original. The Headmate was discontinued--along with the entire W-C product line--several years ago, so I wouldn't put ANY money into it. Install the vented loop--which is a component in the plumbing that you'd keep it, no matter what toilet you buy to replace the Headmate--and plan on replacing the toilet the next time it gives you any problem.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
And the usual question... was it always like that, or did it just start happening???
 
May 24, 2004
7,174
CC 30 South Florida
I hear you, we once started a trip with a head that kept backing up. At first opportunity got a complete repair kit but just replaced the joker valve to correct the immediate problem. Good to see Peggie back and she is right on the money, don't spend any on an obsolete head. I would continue to use the closing of the intake valve for the duration of the trip. A refilable gallon of water by the head can help flushing without having to open the valve.
 
Apr 23, 2012
20
C&C 29 MKI Niagara on the Lake Sailing Club
Never again

We rebuilt our Headmate once. Upon removing the screws there was an explosion of springs, balls and misc components which took several hours to retrieve from the grass. The problem on rebuilding was that the diagrams never were clear on which size spring went back where...never mind the various size screws. As I remember it the rebuild kit was north of $50 and a new head was double that but much more cost effective when you factored in the time to puzzle out the mess of jewelry-like bits and pieces.

As for the vent fixture, C&C never considered installing it as it would raise the cost of the yacht by five or so dollars. But they did install an intake valve which could be accessed by tearing up the bedding on the v berth thereby incurring the wrath of the crew who took some hours to make it up. Solution was to drill a hole in the new valve handle (they had to be replaced because they were neglected to be set open on the cradle and froze over the winter), which was then fitted with a brass rod run through a hole in the bulkhead behind the throne. Pushed in at sea and pulled out when the head was in use, it solved the problem in a most elegant way and cheaper than the vented (vaunted) loop.

Lesson, never ever rebuild the head, go to Practical Sailor and look up the recommended device that fits, and spring for the $300 or more that it takes to get the problem solved. Consider itr money well spent....

Oh and God Bless Peggy...
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,946
- - LIttle Rock
Originally Posted by Ron20324
And the usual question... was it always like that, or did it just start happening???

And the reply:
Just Started on the first day of a two week cruise....like it never happens this way...

Which means that it started when the wet/dry cam in the pump failed.

And that makes a better case than I ever could for why the head intake seacock should NEVER be left open when you leave the boat. Relying on the wet/dry "valve" to keep water out of your bowl--even when vented loops are installed--has sunk many a boat in its slip. If have been relying on it instead of closing the seacock, you're incredibly lucky that the wet/dry assembly decided to fail while you were aboard instead of while you were away from the boat. That cam doesn't have to leak very fast to overflow the bowl and then start filling up the boat when it has several days to do it 24/7.

Y'all take care now...have a safe summer.
 
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