I’m about to put injectors back in my 3gm30f after testing them (one was bad, replaced). I’ve read plenty about them seizing up on folks when removing them, and want to be sure that doesn’t happen on my engine. I’ve also seen folks recommend nickel and copper based antiseize, but isn’t a metal based antiseize a bad idea as it introduces potential noble variants and increases potential of galvanic corrosion? What about “marine grade” metal free antiseize like Loctite LB8023 (good to 2400 degrees Fahrenheit). I plan to own this boat for some time and would like to be able to remove the injectors next time.
Which antiseize on injectors?
- Thread starter skunther
- Start date
Since there are a bunch of copper crush washers in the system, I don't think there'd be a problem with that.. The Loctite would probably be fine too. I've not used that product but have used nickel and copper based products, especially around the mixing ellbow and bolts around the heat exchanger housing.
The metals in these antiseizers (there's a new word) are actually sulphides of the metal if that helps to put you at ease. But if you really want to sleep like a baby, I'd go with the:
Just make sure it says "marine grade" so that you pay three times the money compared to what other people pay for the same product
. Don't know what it contains but Loctite products are good quality.
I have used this for 50 yrs on everything with good results: Never Seez Regular Grade Anti Seize Compound
Copper and nickel do not cause a galvanic corrosion issue with most other metals. Typically you will find steel/iron and aluminum on the engines, and while aluminum and steel will mess each other up, the copper or nickel will not react with either of these metals. Not sure how either copper or nickel do with zinc though… but we all know the zinc takes one for the team to protect the other metals.
I believe your injectors are held in place with a bridge and two bolts. No problem using anti-seize on the bolts, I mean goop them up if it makes you feel better, but I wouldn't recommend anti-seizing the shaft. Most times, if an injector is a bother, you can blow it out by turning the engine over. Be sure to cover the injector so it won't travel but a few inches.
A man with experience, I see! That sounds good to me. I'd guess that you could just loosen the bridge a few mm just enough to let the injector move and still be restrained.
Reviewing my copy of ‘Marine Diesel Engines’, I see that’s the one Nigel Calder recommends when reinstalling injectors. I should have just read that section in the first place!
If any moisture gets on the injector somehow, it could cause corrosion and seize up. Seems to be fairly common, tho mine seem pretty protected. Just a precautionary measure.
I use NeverSeeze on many metal fasteners,if I feel that they may corrode/rust & cause removal problems later.To date,I have never experienced any damage or other problem by doing this. However,this is often not "in the instructions" and is my own decision/responsibility. I have searched for instances where it is not recommended & find few restrictions.
Here is more info :https://industrial.bostik.com/never...r-using-anti-seize-and-lubricating-compounds/
Cheers/Len
Diesels have a great deal more compression, as they fire with compression not a spark plug, so you might damage either. I prefer a towel folded a few times and secured over the injector.