Can anyone tell me where I can find a replacement joker valve for the head in my 1981 Hunter 27. I don't know the manufacturer so maybe somebody out there can help me.
Where to get a joker valve
- Thread starter Stephen OBrien
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It is in the rebuild kit for your toilet!
When you purchase a rebuild kit, there should be one in the package.
When you purchase a rebuild kit, there should be one in the package.
Well, Obviously you haven't rebuilt a head before
or you would know what a joker valve is. It is the valve that goes on the output of the pump unit that closes and keeps the waste from backing up into the head again. It isn't a flap valve, but is looks kind of like a bunch of fingers squeezed to gether.
or you would know what a joker valve is. It is the valve that goes on the output of the pump unit that closes and keeps the waste from backing up into the head again. It isn't a flap valve, but is looks kind of like a bunch of fingers squeezed to gether.
You'll need to know the make/model of the toilet
'cuz joker valves are not one-size fits all makes. The "standard" OEM toilet on later model Hunters (and most other boats too) is a Jabsco...but if your toilet is still original, it's more likely to be a Mansfield 751 or 752, which was discontinued in the mid-80s...no parts--not even joker valves--are still available for it. Or, it may not still be original...which means it could ANY make/model. If you can post or email me--I'm in all the directories for these sites--a photo (one that provides a good view of the PUMP...all bowls look alike) of it, I can identify it for you. As for "what is a joker valve?" It's a one-way valve in the toilet discharge fitting...a rubber cup-shaped doodad that has a slit--or possibly X slits--in the bottom and "lips" on the outside. The flange on it is also the gasket between the fitting and the pump. It's part # 32 on the Jabsco drawing...it's in the same place on all marine toilets, manual and electric.
'cuz joker valves are not one-size fits all makes. The "standard" OEM toilet on later model Hunters (and most other boats too) is a Jabsco...but if your toilet is still original, it's more likely to be a Mansfield 751 or 752, which was discontinued in the mid-80s...no parts--not even joker valves--are still available for it. Or, it may not still be original...which means it could ANY make/model. If you can post or email me--I'm in all the directories for these sites--a photo (one that provides a good view of the PUMP...all bowls look alike) of it, I can identify it for you. As for "what is a joker valve?" It's a one-way valve in the toilet discharge fitting...a rubber cup-shaped doodad that has a slit--or possibly X slits--in the bottom and "lips" on the outside. The flange on it is also the gasket between the fitting and the pump. It's part # 32 on the Jabsco drawing...it's in the same place on all marine toilets, manual and electric.
Replace with off the self joker valve
My 1980 Hunter has a Wilcox Crittenden head. This Spring I replaced the joker valve with one that fit the same diameter of the exit hose. Just unclamp the hose take out the old and put in the new. I puchased it off the self at West Marine.
My 1980 Hunter has a Wilcox Crittenden head. This Spring I replaced the joker valve with one that fit the same diameter of the exit hose. Just unclamp the hose take out the old and put in the new. I puchased it off the self at West Marine.
How did you do that???
I didn't know it was possible to replace a joker valve on any toilet by just unclamping the hose. Every toilet I've ever seen requires removing the screws that hold the discharge fitting on the pump. Are you sure we're talking about the same part?
I didn't know it was possible to replace a joker valve on any toilet by just unclamping the hose. Every toilet I've ever seen requires removing the screws that hold the discharge fitting on the pump. Are you sure we're talking about the same part?
Yes, it is a Mansfield
I checked and it is a Mansfield, but there's no indication of the model number. I will take a picture, but if it's out of production is it possible to get a replacement joker valve?
I checked and it is a Mansfield, but there's no indication of the model number. I will take a picture, but if it's out of production is it possible to get a replacement joker valve?
Has to be a 751 or 752
They were the only manual toilets that Mansfield (which became SeaLand after SeaLand Technology bought Mansfield in 1984) ever made. SeaLand discontinued manual toilets altogether shortly after they bought Mansfield. Parts were available till the early 90s..then they were discontinued too. A Jabsco joker valve should fit your toilet. I'm guessing it will because till a few years ago, Jabsco offered a "universal" rebuild kit that fit several obsolete toilets, including the Brydon--which was a version of the Jabsco manual that was made in Canada, also discontinued about the same time as the SeaLand manual toilets--the Mansfield/SeaLand 751/752, and one or two others. However, I suspect that after 25 years, your toilet needs a lot more than just a joker valve to work efficiently again...seals, o-rings gaskets, etc have got be badly worn, even if replaced while they were still available...'cuz that would make 'em at least 10 years old. The inside of the pump cylinder wall has to be scratched and scored by salt too. You haven't said what you expect a new joker valve to cure...but I'm not sure it's worth spending even the $8-10 that a joker valve costs for a toilet that old. IMO, you'll be a lot better off biting the bullet and replacing the whole toilet. Your best choice is a Raritan PH II...about $250, which is twice as much as a Jabsco, but the only manual toilet under $500 made today that won't fail in a year or two.
They were the only manual toilets that Mansfield (which became SeaLand after SeaLand Technology bought Mansfield in 1984) ever made. SeaLand discontinued manual toilets altogether shortly after they bought Mansfield. Parts were available till the early 90s..then they were discontinued too. A Jabsco joker valve should fit your toilet. I'm guessing it will because till a few years ago, Jabsco offered a "universal" rebuild kit that fit several obsolete toilets, including the Brydon--which was a version of the Jabsco manual that was made in Canada, also discontinued about the same time as the SeaLand manual toilets--the Mansfield/SeaLand 751/752, and one or two others. However, I suspect that after 25 years, your toilet needs a lot more than just a joker valve to work efficiently again...seals, o-rings gaskets, etc have got be badly worn, even if replaced while they were still available...'cuz that would make 'em at least 10 years old. The inside of the pump cylinder wall has to be scratched and scored by salt too. You haven't said what you expect a new joker valve to cure...but I'm not sure it's worth spending even the $8-10 that a joker valve costs for a toilet that old. IMO, you'll be a lot better off biting the bullet and replacing the whole toilet. Your best choice is a Raritan PH II...about $250, which is twice as much as a Jabsco, but the only manual toilet under $500 made today that won't fail in a year or two.
Thanks, Peggy
Thanks for the informative response. I was looking for a joker valve to prevent backflow as I pump out the toilet. But I realize now that my problem is not that at all -- my problem is that the lever that is supposed to stop the flow of fresh water into the toilet isn't doing that. Regardless of which position I put it in, water flows into the toilet. Bottom line is that you are right about updating what's in there now. But I don't know if I'm ready for that job. I suspect it will require some refitting and I don't know if I'm up to that much work. I can always just shut off the sea cocks when not in use -- less convenient but a whole lot cheaper. Thanks again.
Thanks for the informative response. I was looking for a joker valve to prevent backflow as I pump out the toilet. But I realize now that my problem is not that at all -- my problem is that the lever that is supposed to stop the flow of fresh water into the toilet isn't doing that. Regardless of which position I put it in, water flows into the toilet. Bottom line is that you are right about updating what's in there now. But I don't know if I'm ready for that job. I suspect it will require some refitting and I don't know if I'm up to that much work. I can always just shut off the sea cocks when not in use -- less convenient but a whole lot cheaper. Thanks again.
Replacing is easier than rebuilding.
But whether you keep your toilet or replace it, what you really need to keep water out of the bowl is a vented loop in the intake....'cuz if you should forget to close the seacock before leaving the boat, you could come back to find it sitting on the bottom. Relying on even a wet/dry valve that works is dangerous too...'cuz you're relying on people to remember to leave it in the dry mode, and people are not infallible. You'll find a whole bunch of conversation about vented loops in the HM forum and archives too.
But whether you keep your toilet or replace it, what you really need to keep water out of the bowl is a vented loop in the intake....'cuz if you should forget to close the seacock before leaving the boat, you could come back to find it sitting on the bottom. Relying on even a wet/dry valve that works is dangerous too...'cuz you're relying on people to remember to leave it in the dry mode, and people are not infallible. You'll find a whole bunch of conversation about vented loops in the HM forum and archives too.
Hey, I Have One!
The head is connected to a vented loop. Does that mean I'm safe? If I get continuous water flow does that mean the vent is not working? thanks
The head is connected to a vented loop. Does that mean I'm safe? If I get continuous water flow does that mean the vent is not working? thanks
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