Does anyone know where to get the screw-type adjustable pads for a trailer? The kind that you can adjust to support and steady the hull on them trailer? Thanks in advance. adoherty@sas.upenn.edu
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D
David
Pads
Check with Brownell. I think they are in Rhode Island and you can search for their web site.
Check with Brownell. I think they are in Rhode Island and you can search for their web site.
J
John Baumgartner
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R.W.Landau
Screw Jacks
Adam, If you have a scaffold manufacturer near you, You may want to find out what they have in the way of screw jacks. With minor fabrication, your can adapt this to your trailor. I found this an expensive way out. Since you only need to adjust the traler once, I opted to make my adjustable pad supports from standard galv. pipe. I used a 12" long 3" diameter galv. pipe to weld to the trailer. I drilled two hole in each pipe and had nuts welded over each hole.Then used a 1/2" bolt in the nuts. This will be used to clamp a smaller pipe insde the 3" pipe. I then slid a piece of 2 1/2" galv. pipe (mine were 28" long) into the 3"pipe. I can adjust the 2 1/2" pipe to any length I need by putting a floor jack under the 2 1/2" pipe and jacking it to where I want it then clamping it in place with the 1/2" bolts.(note: I think my pipes were very oversized.) I made the pads from two pieces of 3/4 plywood epoxyed together. They are attached with two 6" long 2x2" angles on each side of the 2 1/2" pipe. They swivel on a 1/2" bolt. I know that was confusing.... If you want I will take a picture and post it. It took me less than 30 minutes to adjust my trailer for my boat. I have three pads on each side and it the boat rides great. r.w.landau
Adam, If you have a scaffold manufacturer near you, You may want to find out what they have in the way of screw jacks. With minor fabrication, your can adapt this to your trailor. I found this an expensive way out. Since you only need to adjust the traler once, I opted to make my adjustable pad supports from standard galv. pipe. I used a 12" long 3" diameter galv. pipe to weld to the trailer. I drilled two hole in each pipe and had nuts welded over each hole.Then used a 1/2" bolt in the nuts. This will be used to clamp a smaller pipe insde the 3" pipe. I then slid a piece of 2 1/2" galv. pipe (mine were 28" long) into the 3"pipe. I can adjust the 2 1/2" pipe to any length I need by putting a floor jack under the 2 1/2" pipe and jacking it to where I want it then clamping it in place with the 1/2" bolts.(note: I think my pipes were very oversized.) I made the pads from two pieces of 3/4 plywood epoxyed together. They are attached with two 6" long 2x2" angles on each side of the 2 1/2" pipe. They swivel on a 1/2" bolt. I know that was confusing.... If you want I will take a picture and post it. It took me less than 30 minutes to adjust my trailer for my boat. I have three pads on each side and it the boat rides great. r.w.landau
A
Adam
A
Adam
Northern tool doesnt have em...
..they have spring and bearings and lug-nuts and brakes and u-bolts and couplers...but no support jacks.
..they have spring and bearings and lug-nuts and brakes and u-bolts and couplers...but no support jacks.
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R.W.Landau
B
Bob
R.W. you are a genius . . .
I think that is a brilliant and elegantly simple solution to the problem - wonder why trailer manufacturers don't do it that way. I'm curious as to the lamination of the bunks - did you glue them up flat, or with the boat's weight on them?
I think that is a brilliant and elegantly simple solution to the problem - wonder why trailer manufacturers don't do it that way. I'm curious as to the lamination of the bunks - did you glue them up flat, or with the boat's weight on them?
B
Bob
Oh, I see ...
you didn't do bunks, just individual pads. I reread your description, and it sounds even better to me than bunks because you can adjust the load on each pad. You've got me thinking about modifying my own trailer now.
you didn't do bunks, just individual pads. I reread your description, and it sounds even better to me than bunks because you can adjust the load on each pad. You've got me thinking about modifying my own trailer now.
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R.W.Landau
Here is the pic
Adam, I hope this will be clear enough for you to see. Bob, I am not the genius. I saw this on a friends trailer for his O'Day 272. It was so slick that I decided to change my trailer configuration. Good trailering as well and waiting out the freeze. r.w.landau
Adam, I hope this will be clear enough for you to see. Bob, I am not the genius. I saw this on a friends trailer for his O'Day 272. It was so slick that I decided to change my trailer configuration. Good trailering as well and waiting out the freeze. r.w.landau
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Adam
Pretty slick!
Thats pretty slick! And infinitely adjustable like with screw jacks. My only concern, however, is whether or not the bolts can supply enough clamping force to the pipe insert such that there cannot be any movement. Have you found any such problem? I like your solution alot!. Thanks again, Adam
Thats pretty slick! And infinitely adjustable like with screw jacks. My only concern, however, is whether or not the bolts can supply enough clamping force to the pipe insert such that there cannot be any movement. Have you found any such problem? I like your solution alot!. Thanks again, Adam
M
Mike Whalen
Why not through bolt
If you got it set up like R.W. then you could mark the upper or lower end of the smaller pipe then drill through both and thru bolt. The next owner of the trailer could always adjust in similar way. Sure looks sturdy. Now if I only had a trailer OR a vehicle big enough to pull my boat! They're calling for 50s and breezy here this weekend, think I'll just go sailing. Later, Mike
If you got it set up like R.W. then you could mark the upper or lower end of the smaller pipe then drill through both and thru bolt. The next owner of the trailer could always adjust in similar way. Sure looks sturdy. Now if I only had a trailer OR a vehicle big enough to pull my boat! They're calling for 50s and breezy here this weekend, think I'll just go sailing. Later, Mike
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R.W. Landau
why bother
Mike, I had the nuts welded on so that I could easily adjust the trailer to my boat when I pulled it. I saw this system on a trailer from a major manufacturer of trailers. Their pipes were smaller than mine and the bolts to secure the sliding tube were also smaller. I believe that the trailer I saw had 1 1/2" pipe inside 2" pipe with 3/8" bolts. Remember, my boat is 4000#. The keel sets on the trailer frame. It weighs over 1800#. The rest of the boat is maybe 2200 to 2500#. 2500# divided by 6 supports is approx. 400# per support. Yes while trailering the live load increases as the dead load has inertia through turns. Remember, one 16 penny nail will support 500# I have 2, 1/2" bolts torgued tight, with a lock nut, holding that 400#. I am very happy with this arrangement. The major trailer manufacture is also happy with it and must not have too much liability problems or they would not keep making them as they do. r.w.landau
Mike, I had the nuts welded on so that I could easily adjust the trailer to my boat when I pulled it. I saw this system on a trailer from a major manufacturer of trailers. Their pipes were smaller than mine and the bolts to secure the sliding tube were also smaller. I believe that the trailer I saw had 1 1/2" pipe inside 2" pipe with 3/8" bolts. Remember, my boat is 4000#. The keel sets on the trailer frame. It weighs over 1800#. The rest of the boat is maybe 2200 to 2500#. 2500# divided by 6 supports is approx. 400# per support. Yes while trailering the live load increases as the dead load has inertia through turns. Remember, one 16 penny nail will support 500# I have 2, 1/2" bolts torgued tight, with a lock nut, holding that 400#. I am very happy with this arrangement. The major trailer manufacture is also happy with it and must not have too much liability problems or they would not keep making them as they do. r.w.landau
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Bob
It's my understanding
that most of the boat's weight should be carried by the keel support, and that the pads' or bunks' major function is to locate the hull and keep it from rolling one way or the other. R.W., how do you make sure the keel is centered on the keel support? I see you have guides on either side of it - how do you know it is lined up when loading the boat?
that most of the boat's weight should be carried by the keel support, and that the pads' or bunks' major function is to locate the hull and keep it from rolling one way or the other. R.W., how do you make sure the keel is centered on the keel support? I see you have guides on either side of it - how do you know it is lined up when loading the boat?
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R.W.Landau
Mods this summer
Bob, I was very carefull to line things up this year when I pulled "EXHIBIT "A". I was not sure about the room on my keel platform. Next year I should have some guide rails in place. The plan is to use bolt galv. 1/4" bar stock to the angles you see in the picture and connect Pressure treated 2x4's as a guide for the next season pull-out. r.w.landau
Bob, I was very carefull to line things up this year when I pulled "EXHIBIT "A". I was not sure about the room on my keel platform. Next year I should have some guide rails in place. The plan is to use bolt galv. 1/4" bar stock to the angles you see in the picture and connect Pressure treated 2x4's as a guide for the next season pull-out. r.w.landau
B
Bob
I'm wondering
if there isn't a way to make up an "alignment bridle", say two lengths of line of exactly the same length that attach to the chainplates or rails at equal points abeam of each other, and joined at their other ends, thus forming a triangle whose forward vertex would coincide with a pin on the trailer winch. The boat would HAVE to be true over the trailer when both lines were taut. Just a thought - someone else will probably develop it and make that million.
if there isn't a way to make up an "alignment bridle", say two lengths of line of exactly the same length that attach to the chainplates or rails at equal points abeam of each other, and joined at their other ends, thus forming a triangle whose forward vertex would coincide with a pin on the trailer winch. The boat would HAVE to be true over the trailer when both lines were taut. Just a thought - someone else will probably develop it and make that million.
G
Gerry
Trailer pads and Keel guide
I have a 272LE that has a custom trailer for it that uses hull pads. It has a keel guide to center it while it is being placed on the trailer by the lift. Theoritecally it can be trailer launched and recovered, ha ha. I just have a lift do it now. When placing it on the trailer, the pads need to be adjustable and all the way down out of the way. have the lift bring her in line using the keel guide and lower her to the height you want her to travel at and LEVEL. Then raise the pads into place on the hull and lower her down to place the load of the hull on the pads. If you make one, don't make fixed pads. I've attached a picture of ours in one of our buildings, hopefully you can see how it looks. Oh yes, make a keel locking device to prevent it from shifting on the trailer as you do not have as much surface area in contact with the hull to prevent it from shifting as you would with full bunks.
I have a 272LE that has a custom trailer for it that uses hull pads. It has a keel guide to center it while it is being placed on the trailer by the lift. Theoritecally it can be trailer launched and recovered, ha ha. I just have a lift do it now. When placing it on the trailer, the pads need to be adjustable and all the way down out of the way. have the lift bring her in line using the keel guide and lower her to the height you want her to travel at and LEVEL. Then raise the pads into place on the hull and lower her down to place the load of the hull on the pads. If you make one, don't make fixed pads. I've attached a picture of ours in one of our buildings, hopefully you can see how it looks. Oh yes, make a keel locking device to prevent it from shifting on the trailer as you do not have as much surface area in contact with the hull to prevent it from shifting as you would with full bunks.
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