Where to cut for chain-plate inspection port
- Thread starter Jared1048
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Jared have a look at this. As you can see there's a big honken angle iron holding the chainplate in place. The chain plate is a one piece rod with a nut on the end. It's glassed in. I don't think you will need another backing plate unless this one is rusted though.
Jared:
If you are concerned about this I would suggest that you get one of those flexible digital scopes to inspect the area before you do any distructive manuvers. This has NOT been a major problem on these boats. While I would not disregard the potential problem I would not worry about cutting up this area and possibly weaking the structure if it does not need it.
If you are concerned about this I would suggest that you get one of those flexible digital scopes to inspect the area before you do any distructive manuvers. This has NOT been a major problem on these boats. While I would not disregard the potential problem I would not worry about cutting up this area and possibly weaking the structure if it does not need it.
Don's picture is very helpful for you. What I don't understand from the design is how one accesses the hex bolt at the base since if it gets loose how do you access it? Or even tighten it? Just aksin', don't have any helpful suggestions...sorry. On my boat, I can easily get to the underside of the bottom-most part of the lower end of the chainplate rods.
wow, thanks for that Don! Looking at that it doesnt seem possible to get to it really.
I'll try to get my hands on one of those camera's and see if I can inspect it that way. As you can probably tell im super paranoid that I'm going to beat this thing to hell and the chainplates going to rip through the threads.
I'm still thinking of putting a bolt in the extra hole and welding it to the rod next to it for added strength
I'll try to get my hands on one of those camera's and see if I can inspect it that way. As you can probably tell im super paranoid that I'm going to beat this thing to hell and the chainplates going to rip through the threads.
I'm still thinking of putting a bolt in the extra hole and welding it to the rod next to it for added strength
Jared
You can get at the nut from the side. What i'm not sure of is if it's been welded to the angle iron. I think you can hold the iron in place while you undo the chain plate. But the nut may still drop off once it's been loosen. If you get ahold of a camera could you let us know if the nut is tacked (welded) in place or loose?
thanks
You can get at the nut from the side. What i'm not sure of is if it's been welded to the angle iron. I think you can hold the iron in place while you undo the chain plate. But the nut may still drop off once it's been loosen. If you get ahold of a camera could you let us know if the nut is tacked (welded) in place or loose?
thanks
Chainplate inspection on Hunter 31
The diagram provided is excellent...Here are some further details...The metal angle is massive but make of regular iron. It is not glassed in place.
The iron nut is welded onto the angle iron.
Problem, you cannot inspect yet all the force of the shrouds come down through this single rod to a few threads on this nut which may or may not have been compromised by salt water. If you unscrew the rod you may lose the ability to rethread the rod to the original position as the angle iron may fall out of place.
I replaced mine with stainless. Cost me a fortune years ago. Cut slots in the liner well aft of the angle iron (as I recall they were about 20 inches by 4 inches) and then rebuilt and reglassed the openings using the original fiberglass material. Hope this helps.
The diagram provided is excellent...Here are some further details...The metal angle is massive but make of regular iron. It is not glassed in place.
The iron nut is welded onto the angle iron.
Problem, you cannot inspect yet all the force of the shrouds come down through this single rod to a few threads on this nut which may or may not have been compromised by salt water. If you unscrew the rod you may lose the ability to rethread the rod to the original position as the angle iron may fall out of place.
I replaced mine with stainless. Cost me a fortune years ago. Cut slots in the liner well aft of the angle iron (as I recall they were about 20 inches by 4 inches) and then rebuilt and reglassed the openings using the original fiberglass material. Hope this helps.
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