I am installing a new radio and new at this. Don Casey says to use copper connectors that are preferably tinned. But none of the packages of connectors say what they are made out of. How do I know if I am getting the right thing?
Where do I find copper connectors?
- Thread starter Sailoff
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Check out a Marine-Type Store OR Online for Shrink-Type...
for a wider choice: (see Link and search for "Tinned Connectors")
for a wider choice: (see Link and search for "Tinned Connectors")
Usually all connectors are tinned copper.
Usually only very large lugs are not tinned. For small wires like 24 - 10 gauge, the lugs are usually always tinned copper and need to be crimped with a small hand held tool that does Blue, Yellow and Red lugs depending on the wire gauge. I would suggest you go to digikey.com , newarkinone.com or mouser.com to name a few if you want to see a huge selection of lugs and tools.
Usually only very large lugs are not tinned. For small wires like 24 - 10 gauge, the lugs are usually always tinned copper and need to be crimped with a small hand held tool that does Blue, Yellow and Red lugs depending on the wire gauge. I would suggest you go to digikey.com , newarkinone.com or mouser.com to name a few if you want to see a huge selection of lugs and tools.
Agree with GuyT
I usually get all my connectors from Mouser. I would personally stay away from a Marine type store as they will inflate the price dramatically. If you are going for RF type connectors, then they are usually Nickle Plated Brass. Copper in that environment (RF - UHF(SO-239), BNC, N, F, TNC, etc...) is too soft. Sliver or Gold plated is the better choice for RF connectors. Good luck.
I usually get all my connectors from Mouser. I would personally stay away from a Marine type store as they will inflate the price dramatically. If you are going for RF type connectors, then they are usually Nickle Plated Brass. Copper in that environment (RF - UHF(SO-239), BNC, N, F, TNC, etc...) is too soft. Sliver or Gold plated is the better choice for RF connectors. Good luck.
ShrinkWrap Connectors
Use the adhesive lined shrink wrap type connectors. After installling you warm them up in a flame (I use a charcoal lighter) and they shrink water-tight. Since we are talking less than a $10 investment I think it is OK to go to the Marine store if it is most convenient to you. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/888/0/0/electrical%20connectors/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0
Use the adhesive lined shrink wrap type connectors. After installling you warm them up in a flame (I use a charcoal lighter) and they shrink water-tight. Since we are talking less than a $10 investment I think it is OK to go to the Marine store if it is most convenient to you. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/888/0/0/electrical%20connectors/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0
Heat Shrink
I also agree on the connectors with the adhesive shrink tubing on them. If you are in an area where these are hard to find, as I am, you can go down to the local hardware store and get some regular shrink wrap and some liquid electric tape. Put some liquid tape on the connection, then shrink wrap over it. I usually put another layer of liquid tape over the shrink wrap. Also, I recommend soldering the crimp connectors, after crimping. Yeah, I know, I am the king of overkill.
I also agree on the connectors with the adhesive shrink tubing on them. If you are in an area where these are hard to find, as I am, you can go down to the local hardware store and get some regular shrink wrap and some liquid electric tape. Put some liquid tape on the connection, then shrink wrap over it. I usually put another layer of liquid tape over the shrink wrap. Also, I recommend soldering the crimp connectors, after crimping. Yeah, I know, I am the king of overkill.
Nice N Easy
Ace Hardware on Pontchartrain has the crimp-on connectors with heat-shrink tubing, and a nice supply of stainless fasteners too. I told Kurt one day he should go into the used boat business as a sideline. Even if he loses money on a boat sale, he can make it back triple selling repair supplies to the buyer.
Ace Hardware on Pontchartrain has the crimp-on connectors with heat-shrink tubing, and a nice supply of stainless fasteners too. I told Kurt one day he should go into the used boat business as a sideline. Even if he loses money on a boat sale, he can make it back triple selling repair supplies to the buyer.
May want to re-think soldering!
I read an engineering report a couple of years ago from Honda on the results of testing the failure rate of soldered connections vs. crimped connections that ended my soldering habits. With a background in the late 1960's aerospace electronics industry, I was surprised to read in a summary that they came out favoring crimped only connections until I learned the causation. Note that this analysis was based on testing the effect of vibration on the electrical connections in the automotive industry. The problem is that the heat from soldering tempers the wires and makes them more brittle creating a hard spot at the joint that leads to premature failure. The net effect, as I recall the report, is that vibration failure occurs 50% sooner with soldered connection than with crimped. Since I have a Yanmar diesel, which some consider to be the Vibration Queen if you have the old style of motor maounts, I no longer solder m,y connections. I do use an electrolytic grease and shrink tubing over shrink connectors. In the bilge connections, I also slipped clear tubing over the whole joint and sealed the ends with silicon sealant.
I read an engineering report a couple of years ago from Honda on the results of testing the failure rate of soldered connections vs. crimped connections that ended my soldering habits. With a background in the late 1960's aerospace electronics industry, I was surprised to read in a summary that they came out favoring crimped only connections until I learned the causation. Note that this analysis was based on testing the effect of vibration on the electrical connections in the automotive industry. The problem is that the heat from soldering tempers the wires and makes them more brittle creating a hard spot at the joint that leads to premature failure. The net effect, as I recall the report, is that vibration failure occurs 50% sooner with soldered connection than with crimped. Since I have a Yanmar diesel, which some consider to be the Vibration Queen if you have the old style of motor maounts, I no longer solder m,y connections. I do use an electrolytic grease and shrink tubing over shrink connectors. In the bilge connections, I also slipped clear tubing over the whole joint and sealed the ends with silicon sealant.
to solder or to crimp
I was a field engineer in the computer industry for many years. I can assure you that soldering is an art that has to be learned. The casual weekend DIY'er can solder 2 wires together or a wire to a terminal, but most likely he will get a cold solder joint, or as someone else suggested... apply too much heat and temper the wires so they become brittle. You also have to make sure to use the right type of solder (acid core vs. rosin core. Buy tinned wire and use crimpers
I was a field engineer in the computer industry for many years. I can assure you that soldering is an art that has to be learned. The casual weekend DIY'er can solder 2 wires together or a wire to a terminal, but most likely he will get a cold solder joint, or as someone else suggested... apply too much heat and temper the wires so they become brittle. You also have to make sure to use the right type of solder (acid core vs. rosin core. Buy tinned wire and use crimpers
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