When to replace rigging

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Jim Logan

I've read all the posts on replacing rigging and the recommended times and signs of replacement, but I'm still wondering - How many of us actually do that? I'll admit to a somewhat cheap streak (or is that redundant if you own a 1980 H33?). My boat is usually day sailed in Lake Ponchartrain, so I am in a mostly fresh or brackish water environment - as far as I know, my boat has been here its entire life. A careful inspection of the rigging shows none of the signs of doom in the rigging except for a rust discoloration on the lower turnbuckles, but if you polish them up and lubricate, there are no cracks or other problems visible - no "meat hooks" or "barber poling" on the rigging wire - so my question is, do we have to replace "just to be safe" or do a lot of us just inspect carefully and keep on using the rigging we have? Comments welcomed.
 
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Henry Weber

replacing standing rigging

Jim -- I sail a H30 1977. The head stay went first, noticeable by a broken strand which would catch on the hanks. I replaced it myself with the mast up and the boat in the water. It was no big deal since the terminals were Sta-lok. Cost is about $.90/ft for 316 ss 1x19 1/4 inch diam. cable. Since then I have one by one replaced all but two shrouds. My experience has been that I could easily see the broken strand and that there was little danger of mast falling because of the redundancy of the double lower shroud rigging. In each case I backed up the broken stay with a winch tightened line before I climbed the mast. In no case did a cable break in two -- just a strand or two. Bottom line is that it is not a big deal to replace the rigging. It can be done one at a time. But figure that after one goes the others are all not far behind. Good luck Henry
 
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Bob Howie

Rigging

Ok, I'm going to get out my Junior Rigger's Badge, pin it on and opine to the standard of replacing rigging. Books'll tell you that after 10 years, one should consider replacing rigging. That's what some books say, but I agree with Henry. When rigging looks like it should be replaced, then maybe that's the time to do it. I've never seen a stainless cable just snap; typically a fitting or a connector broke and then things went to blazes after that. If you start losing strands, you might want to consider replacing the rig. Usually, you can contact a rigging shop and they now the dimensions for a variety of boats. By replacement rigging from them and then install it yourself. Rigging tension can be adjusted either with the typically tensiometer or you can rent high-tech electronic versions at most boat supplies stores. I would be more concerned about the fittings i.e., swages, turnbuckles, clevis pins, that sort of thing. Cracks in swages and turnbuckles demand prompt attention. Good luck.
 
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Don Alexander

Overstated

When I raced Starboats the pundits said "if you didn't loose your mast once a year then you were using too heavy rigging", however cruising boats are designed with more conservative safety margins. Yes Stainless does suffer stress corrosion and crevice corrosion and fatigue - and just about everything else you can imagine, but a well designed rig should not take the components anywhere near the limits where these factors become significant. On my last boat, a 30' half tonner I raced and cruised it hard. I never replaced any of the wires in 18 years. Problem is the surveyors panic the insurance companies and they get picky. If you are confident in the rig, inspect it regularly then, in your shoes, I would not worry too much. Regards.
 
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carisea

to henry weber- replacing rigging

I have a 9 year old passage 42 one strand on the starboard lower shroud has broken. do you think this can be replaced in the water and use the same technique of running a temporary rope shroud for support of the mast while changing out the bad wire
 
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