I've really enjoyed checking out all of the modifications posted on this site. I want to add some wood accent panels, speaker enclosures and some organizers. I'm struggling with the best type of wood products that will be easy to work with and provide good service given the "moist" nature of the cabin environment here in the Philadelphia area. I'm considering various plywoods, MDF with veneer or contact paper and dimensional lumber like poplar, oak, teak or maple. Jim Craig
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I've successfully used just about every known type of material in boats over the years, except contact paper/vinyl. With heat and/or sunlight exposure, it shrinks as it loses it's volatile chemicals over time, so it's not a good choice. If it's on the interior use any wood, ply, laminate or fabric that pleases you as long as you keep a totally dry boat as I do. If you do allow condensation, or water in the bilges from leaks, then use only dimensionally stable woods and laminates and mildew resistant fabrics. You dn't have to use teak to get a teak look. Several woods with similar grains can be colored to look like teak for a lot less money. Treat woods with a good primer/sealer on all surfaces, eventhe ones that don't show, before finishing and installing.
I've successfully used just about every known type of material in boats over the years, except contact paper/vinyl. With heat and/or sunlight exposure, it shrinks as it loses it's volatile chemicals over time, so it's not a good choice. If it's on the interior use any wood, ply, laminate or fabric that pleases you as long as you keep a totally dry boat as I do. If you do allow condensation, or water in the bilges from leaks, then use only dimensionally stable woods and laminates and mildew resistant fabrics. You dn't have to use teak to get a teak look. Several woods with similar grains can be colored to look like teak for a lot less money. Treat woods with a good primer/sealer on all surfaces, eventhe ones that don't show, before finishing and installing.
wood
I have used just plain old laun a lot of times in the cabin. BUT I DO coat it all with epoxy. Do any staining before coating with epoxy, as the wood won't take stain after it's coated. Also, don't stain as dark as you want the finished product as the epoxy coating seems to darken the finish a little. If the wood is going to be in the sun too you can varnish over the epoxy, though this will darken it a little more. Almost any kind of wood you can think of has been used on boats over the years. Pine is soft and easy to shape, oak is strong, and the big deal with teak is it can be left unfinished and still not rot out fast on you as well as being strong. That is because of the oils in the wood. Which is also why teak gives so many problems when you want it varnished. I do not reccomend any of the particle boards, or chip boards. Better to use plywood. Exterior ply uses water proof glue, but it will still come apart if it is left wet. I coat all ply before assembly so that even the edges are sealed. Formica makes good counter top on boats, but again epoxy the top of the wood before applying the formica just to be sure it will last. You can get cheap epoxy 20 a gallon at many of the home warehouse stores, like Home Depot, Lowes, Builders Square, etc. It's usually in the paint department. Mix small amounts to prevent waste, use cheap through away brushes. I use sticks to stir with, and cut off 2 liter bottles for mixing bowels so I can just through away everything when I'm done. Cleaning up epoxy off of brushes, mixing pots, and stir sticks is more expensive than using through away junk.
I have used just plain old laun a lot of times in the cabin. BUT I DO coat it all with epoxy. Do any staining before coating with epoxy, as the wood won't take stain after it's coated. Also, don't stain as dark as you want the finished product as the epoxy coating seems to darken the finish a little. If the wood is going to be in the sun too you can varnish over the epoxy, though this will darken it a little more. Almost any kind of wood you can think of has been used on boats over the years. Pine is soft and easy to shape, oak is strong, and the big deal with teak is it can be left unfinished and still not rot out fast on you as well as being strong. That is because of the oils in the wood. Which is also why teak gives so many problems when you want it varnished. I do not reccomend any of the particle boards, or chip boards. Better to use plywood. Exterior ply uses water proof glue, but it will still come apart if it is left wet. I coat all ply before assembly so that even the edges are sealed. Formica makes good counter top on boats, but again epoxy the top of the wood before applying the formica just to be sure it will last. You can get cheap epoxy 20 a gallon at many of the home warehouse stores, like Home Depot, Lowes, Builders Square, etc. It's usually in the paint department. Mix small amounts to prevent waste, use cheap through away brushes. I use sticks to stir with, and cut off 2 liter bottles for mixing bowels so I can just through away everything when I'm done. Cleaning up epoxy off of brushes, mixing pots, and stir sticks is more expensive than using through away junk.
water is the enemy
I agree with Greg. Stay away from particle woods like MDF. I'm working on some trim using exterior grade plywood and laminate (Formica is the brand name). You need a router and a laminate edging bit and you are in business.
I agree with Greg. Stay away from particle woods like MDF. I'm working on some trim using exterior grade plywood and laminate (Formica is the brand name). You need a router and a laminate edging bit and you are in business.
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