What's the best way to remove vinyl lettering from fiberglass?
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I used a heatgun.
But be very careful. Gelcoat is easy to destroy with heat. Mineral spirits will remove any left over glue.
But be very careful. Gelcoat is easy to destroy with heat. Mineral spirits will remove any left over glue.
Plastic razor blades
In a recent Good Old Boat, there was some information about a sharp, plastic razor blade used in the sign industry that's really good for removing vinyl lettering. Did a quick search, and I am pretty sure this is the product http://www.scraperite.com/index.html
In a recent Good Old Boat, there was some information about a sharp, plastic razor blade used in the sign industry that's really good for removing vinyl lettering. Did a quick search, and I am pretty sure this is the product http://www.scraperite.com/index.html
Those look good Brad.
What was said about them at 'Good ol Boat'? I tried a steel razor for this job. It quickly went right back into my tool box.
What was said about them at 'Good ol Boat'? I tried a steel razor for this job. It quickly went right back into my tool box.
GOB
The author mentioned that at the time, it was hard to find them for sale not in bulk. You may be able to pick up a couple from your local sign shop. I don't know if they've branched out since the article or the author didn't do research, but it looks like they are available in a lot of places and stores.
The author mentioned that at the time, it was hard to find them for sale not in bulk. You may be able to pick up a couple from your local sign shop. I don't know if they've branched out since the article or the author didn't do research, but it looks like they are available in a lot of places and stores.
Awlgrip and decals
A suggestion made to me was to wet sand, buff and polish after removing as much decal as possible by the means listed already. But I also understand that you can't really do that with Awlgrip. I'm looking at just that problem on my new to me T37. In addition, the PO left swirls, from a old buffing I suppose. More recently he was in the habit of using Awlcare each spring. So, what are those last few touch up steps for Awlgrip that replace those for gelcoat?
A suggestion made to me was to wet sand, buff and polish after removing as much decal as possible by the means listed already. But I also understand that you can't really do that with Awlgrip. I'm looking at just that problem on my new to me T37. In addition, the PO left swirls, from a old buffing I suppose. More recently he was in the habit of using Awlcare each spring. So, what are those last few touch up steps for Awlgrip that replace those for gelcoat?
Awlgrip
Phil Buffing or polishing Awlgrip only serves to damage the surface as you know. My yard left some scratches from the straps on their Travelift and was unfortunatley "diligent" such that they decided to buff out the scratches. This is one of the (many) reasons I prefer DIY work on the boat... The only advice I received which worked without exacerbating the problem was clearcoat followed by Awlcare application over the effected area. As the rest of the topsides retains it's original shine, it blended in pretty well such that only I can tell. Back to the decal removal discussion
Phil Buffing or polishing Awlgrip only serves to damage the surface as you know. My yard left some scratches from the straps on their Travelift and was unfortunatley "diligent" such that they decided to buff out the scratches. This is one of the (many) reasons I prefer DIY work on the boat... The only advice I received which worked without exacerbating the problem was clearcoat followed by Awlcare application over the effected area. As the rest of the topsides retains it's original shine, it blended in pretty well such that only I can tell. Back to the decal removal discussion
I used an eraser
Auto body shops use an eraser that chucks into a 3/8" variable speed drill to remove decals and pinstriping. I used one to remove the vynil decals on my 26.5. It's a rubber wheel and it peels the decals right off slick as snot. Use a slow speed. Won't harm gelcoat, no residue to remove (all the glue comes off with the decal). With this product so easily purchased at an auto supply store, it amazes me folks are still heating, peeling by hand, using scrapers and chemicals, worrying about scratching the gelcoat, etc.
Auto body shops use an eraser that chucks into a 3/8" variable speed drill to remove decals and pinstriping. I used one to remove the vynil decals on my 26.5. It's a rubber wheel and it peels the decals right off slick as snot. Use a slow speed. Won't harm gelcoat, no residue to remove (all the glue comes off with the decal). With this product so easily purchased at an auto supply store, it amazes me folks are still heating, peeling by hand, using scrapers and chemicals, worrying about scratching the gelcoat, etc.
If you use a heat gun
If you use a heat gun keep it moving so you don't damage the gel coat. The trick is to get the vinyl warm enough so that it starts to peel but not so hot that it gets gummy and rips apart. I would not use a razor blade as they bite into the gelcoat rather easily. Mike
If you use a heat gun keep it moving so you don't damage the gel coat. The trick is to get the vinyl warm enough so that it starts to peel but not so hot that it gets gummy and rips apart. I would not use a razor blade as they bite into the gelcoat rather easily. Mike
Cheapo wall paper steamer.
A sign guy in our harbor used one of those cheapo wall paper steamers to remove the stripes from our HV'36. They were off in minutes. The Eraser work good on really thin vinyl. If it is still in good shape then it takes a while. Hair Dryer/Heat gun? Never had much luck, but it may work under some conditions.
A sign guy in our harbor used one of those cheapo wall paper steamers to remove the stripes from our HV'36. They were off in minutes. The Eraser work good on really thin vinyl. If it is still in good shape then it takes a while. Hair Dryer/Heat gun? Never had much luck, but it may work under some conditions.
Easy-Off
works with painted on lettering... so I am told. Don't know if I would use it! Call one of those mobile sign lettering guys. They take this suff off boats all the time... before they put the new stuff on. I might opt for a hair dryer for first attempt.
works with painted on lettering... so I am told. Don't know if I would use it! Call one of those mobile sign lettering guys. They take this suff off boats all the time... before they put the new stuff on. I might opt for a hair dryer for first attempt.
I used a single-edge razor.
Went real slow so not to nick the gel coat. Had no issues. Then I used the same blade to gently remove anything that remained. Some adhesive do not come off with the lettering. Key here is be patient and do the job right the first time. TAKE YOUR TIME!
Went real slow so not to nick the gel coat. Had no issues. Then I used the same blade to gently remove anything that remained. Some adhesive do not come off with the lettering. Key here is be patient and do the job right the first time. TAKE YOUR TIME!
I used a razor blade, too ...
and did mucho damage to the gel coat when we removed the old vinyl cove stripe. My wife did one side of the boat while I did the other and we were competing to get done first. That wasn't a good idea - paricularly because it was sort of a chilly day in the spring. (My wife did less damage than I did because she had the sun) I even tried to repair some gouges with gel coat. I made a mess and only hope to cover it up with a new vinyl stripe. Use the other methods, but if you use a razor blade, use heat, a sharp blade and go SLOW. Acetone seemed to dissolve the adhesive residue faster than Goof-off. You seem to have only a small amount to do, so patience shouldn't be a problem.
and did mucho damage to the gel coat when we removed the old vinyl cove stripe.
My wife did one side of the boat while I did the other and we were competing to get done first. That wasn't a good idea - paricularly because it was sort of a chilly day in the spring. (My wife did less damage than I did because she had the sun) I even tried to repair some gouges with gel coat. I made a mess and only hope to cover it up with a new vinyl stripe. Use the other methods, but if you use a razor blade, use heat, a sharp blade and go SLOW. Acetone seemed to dissolve the adhesive residue faster than Goof-off. You seem to have only a small amount to do, so patience shouldn't be a problem. I used a blow drier and a chisel to lift the edges,
after that the letters peeled off in fairly large sections. There was a shadow after removing the adhesive that I wet sanded out and polished. I used lacquer thinner to remove the adhesive and polish. I only sanded and polished one side before deciding that the new letters would cover most of the ghosting. I was looking at it the other day and apparently the sun has bleached out and taken care of the rest. Frank
after that the letters peeled off in fairly large sections. There was a shadow after removing the adhesive that I wet sanded out and polished. I used lacquer thinner to remove the adhesive and polish. I only sanded and polished one side before deciding that the new letters would cover most of the ghosting. I was looking at it the other day and apparently the sun has bleached out and taken care of the rest. Frank
3M Stripe Off Wheel
by the wheel from any paint&body shop supplier.....part#7498...be sure to get mounting tool...part#7499....uses between 500 and 4000 rpm....do not press to hard while using because it makes the rubber wheel out of round...let the friction do the work for you...only grind from right to left....will not damage paint....or any hard surface except laquer...this is what we use everyday in autobody paint....only residue is dust...but not the kind of dust that requires a mask....large jobs can be done in minutes.....the key is let the wheel glide on top of the surface with minimal pressure...
by the wheel from any paint&body shop supplier.....part#7498...be sure to get mounting tool...part#7499....uses between 500 and 4000 rpm....do not press to hard while using because it makes the rubber wheel out of round...let the friction do the work for you...only grind from right to left....will not damage paint....or any hard surface except laquer...this is what we use everyday in autobody paint....only residue is dust...but not the kind of dust that requires a mask....large jobs can be done in minutes.....the key is let the wheel glide on top of the surface with minimal pressure...
What I wound up doing...
What I finally did was go to wal-mart and get a 2 dollar plastic paint stripper tool. It looked like a teeny tiny dustpan or maybe a plastic putty knife. Anyway, the plastic razor blade suggestion gave me the idea. All in all it worked great. Took the whole letter off in one fell swoop and no elbow grease at all. Thanks for all the suggestions.
What I finally did was go to wal-mart and get a 2 dollar plastic paint stripper tool. It looked like a teeny tiny dustpan or maybe a plastic putty knife. Anyway, the plastic razor blade suggestion gave me the idea. All in all it worked great. Took the whole letter off in one fell swoop and no elbow grease at all. Thanks for all the suggestions.
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