Scenario: I'm buying a sailboat (specifically a '85 Catalina 25) tomorrow and the mast is lying on the deck. What is your checklist for rigging, mast conditioning, electronics, etc before you set sail? For any boat, what are the primary concerns once the mast is on the deck? Knowing I want to add a spinaker down the road, what is my part list at the mast head? Thanks, PhotoEd
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Light bulbs
I can't help with the spinakar question, but if I had it to do over again with my Oday 25, I would replace the light bulbs. Alan
I can't help with the spinakar question, but if I had it to do over again with my Oday 25, I would replace the light bulbs. Alan
Check into LED replacements
If you’re going to replace the bulbs in the mast, check into replacing them whit LED’s. they draw far less current and they’re like the Energizer Bunny, they keep going and going….. You will never have to worry about them for a long time. Bob
If you’re going to replace the bulbs in the mast, check into replacing them whit LED’s. they draw far less current and they’re like the Energizer Bunny, they keep going and going….. You will never have to worry about them for a long time. Bob
Masthead spinnaker hardware
To add a spinnaker to your inventory, all you'll need at the masthead is a block for the halyard. It needs to have a strong attachment to the mast, and should probably swivel, since the spinnaker can pull in a range of directions and you don't want it to be bending stuff up there. It's also handy to have a swivel if the halyards get tangled from hoisting and dousing on different sides. Something light, but strong, like a Harken, should do. You may need a tang or crane to hang the block from, depending upon what the masthead configuration is-- the block has to be above the forestay. On our Soling (27") we simply ran the halyard through the block and down to cleats at the base of the mast on both sides. For less hefty crew, you may want to have a winch available to help with hoisting.
To add a spinnaker to your inventory, all you'll need at the masthead is a block for the halyard. It needs to have a strong attachment to the mast, and should probably swivel, since the spinnaker can pull in a range of directions and you don't want it to be bending stuff up there. It's also handy to have a swivel if the halyards get tangled from hoisting and dousing on different sides. Something light, but strong, like a Harken, should do. You may need a tang or crane to hang the block from, depending upon what the masthead configuration is-- the block has to be above the forestay. On our Soling (27") we simply ran the halyard through the block and down to cleats at the base of the mast on both sides. For less hefty crew, you may want to have a winch available to help with hoisting.
This is a great opportunity
There is a short list of stuff I would recommend. 1. Pull another electrical line in case you want to add some type of radio antenna. 2. Pull messenger lines for the halyards. 3. Clean the entire length of the mast with a corrosion prevention solution. 4. Wrap the spreaders with leather boots and "X-treme" tape to prevent damage to your sails. This is very important. 5. Make sure your wind instrument has its indicators at the proper angle for going to windward. Should be around 35 to 45 degrees. 6. Replace all the light bulbs. 7. Lubricate the sheaves and blocks. 8. If needed, replace your halyards. Best wishes, John Richard s/v Jack's Place
There is a short list of stuff I would recommend. 1. Pull another electrical line in case you want to add some type of radio antenna. 2. Pull messenger lines for the halyards. 3. Clean the entire length of the mast with a corrosion prevention solution. 4. Wrap the spreaders with leather boots and "X-treme" tape to prevent damage to your sails. This is very important. 5. Make sure your wind instrument has its indicators at the proper angle for going to windward. Should be around 35 to 45 degrees. 6. Replace all the light bulbs. 7. Lubricate the sheaves and blocks. 8. If needed, replace your halyards. Best wishes, John Richard s/v Jack's Place
Check the Rigging
I would thouroughly examine all of the rigging. That boat is 20 years old, and do you know if anybody ever replaced the rigging? Once the mast is set, you'll only be able to keep an eye on the lower end of your shrouds and stays.
I would thouroughly examine all of the rigging. That boat is 20 years old, and do you know if anybody ever replaced the rigging? Once the mast is set, you'll only be able to keep an eye on the lower end of your shrouds and stays.
Dye penetrant inspection of rigging terminals
When the mast is down I routinely do a 'dye penetrant' inspection of the rigging terminals. The dye penetrates into small micro-cracks too small for the naked eye to see. Dutcile failure is easy to note by dimensional changes; but, impending brittle/fatigue failure is VERY hard to assay .. until visible cracks actually begin to appear... the dye penetrant exposes such cracks to be noted long before they become large enough to be visible to the naked eye. Such dye (and cleaner and 'developer') is availabe at most rigging supplys and mail order chandleries. Magnaflux is the most common brand. Caution: DO NOT do this ON the boat as the dye does NOT come out of gelcoat once is soaks in.
When the mast is down I routinely do a 'dye penetrant' inspection of the rigging terminals. The dye penetrates into small micro-cracks too small for the naked eye to see. Dutcile failure is easy to note by dimensional changes; but, impending brittle/fatigue failure is VERY hard to assay .. until visible cracks actually begin to appear... the dye penetrant exposes such cracks to be noted long before they become large enough to be visible to the naked eye. Such dye (and cleaner and 'developer') is availabe at most rigging supplys and mail order chandleries. Magnaflux is the most common brand. Caution: DO NOT do this ON the boat as the dye does NOT come out of gelcoat once is soaks in.
Replace the Wiring
The original wiring was probably non-marine grade automotive type. After all these years it's probably got serious oxidation issues which means higher resistance. I'd replace the conductors with new tinned marine-grade wire and marine grade connectors. Use heat shrink on the terminals. Consider using a 3-percent drop in the wiring size for the anchor light and figure the distance as the round trip from the battery. I also like the idea of a new coax for the VHF and since you live in AL maybe check out what's needed for a good grounding system. If the anchor light or steaming light lenses are crazed they should be replaced because they'll only put out percentage of the original light. Coat all screws with either something like Lanocote (hardware-type screws) or, in the case of electrical screws, silicone dielectric grease like that used in ignition systems. The Lanocote will help keep the fasteners from siezing and the dielectric grease will help combat corrosion. On electrical sockets, bulb bases, or other similar things that you don't want to get corroded put a film of silicone dielectric grease. Good questions and it pays to think ahead. And good luck with your new boat!
The original wiring was probably non-marine grade automotive type. After all these years it's probably got serious oxidation issues which means higher resistance. I'd replace the conductors with new tinned marine-grade wire and marine grade connectors. Use heat shrink on the terminals. Consider using a 3-percent drop in the wiring size for the anchor light and figure the distance as the round trip from the battery. I also like the idea of a new coax for the VHF and since you live in AL maybe check out what's needed for a good grounding system. If the anchor light or steaming light lenses are crazed they should be replaced because they'll only put out percentage of the original light. Coat all screws with either something like Lanocote (hardware-type screws) or, in the case of electrical screws, silicone dielectric grease like that used in ignition systems. The Lanocote will help keep the fasteners from siezing and the dielectric grease will help combat corrosion. On electrical sockets, bulb bases, or other similar things that you don't want to get corroded put a film of silicone dielectric grease. Good questions and it pays to think ahead. And good luck with your new boat!
P.S. We Expect to see some photos!
maybe the before and after type.
Also, there is a section here for project photos.
maybe the before and after type.
Also, there is a section here for project photos.
Another thought...
The wiring should be inside a conduit or you'll get pinging at anchor. also, wiring should have a strain relief. Make sure the base of the mast is leak-free. now I'm through!
The wiring should be inside a conduit or you'll get pinging at anchor. also, wiring should have a strain relief. Make sure the base of the mast is leak-free. now I'm through!
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