What rating for the Fuse is needed for the accessory 12v?
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Re: What rating for the Fuse is needed for the accessory 12v
It will depend on what it is going to. Please advise.
It will depend on what it is going to. Please advise.
12 volt accessory...
Dave, where can I mount a shoot thru the hull transponder on a 1996 H 26?
I did post the question by itself on the forum...
ABK
Hi Dave, the 12 volt will power a light, phone charger, maybe a 12v small fan, etc...
Dave, where can I mount a shoot thru the hull transponder on a 1996 H 26?
I did post the question by itself on the forum...
ABK
Re: What rating for the Fuse is needed for the accessory 12v
It also more critically depends on the rating of the plug/outlet. Most are not built to carry more than a few amps and easily subject to corrosion making them prone to overheating so be careful what you plug in to it
It also more critically depends on the rating of the plug/outlet. Most are not built to carry more than a few amps and easily subject to corrosion making them prone to overheating so be careful what you plug in to it
Re: What rating for the Fuse is needed for the accessory 12v
As appears above in my response to Dave's question:
the 12 volt will power a light, phone charger, maybe a 12v small fan, etc...
It is a cigarette style 12 volt outlet... It is the one that came with the boat...
I do know all about electricity, fuses, wiring protection, electrical formulas, resistance, etc.
If there were a fuse in there presently I would know what I should try to replace it with. I could base it on what I was using the outlet for but I thought I would inquire here for an answer.
There is also a reason it is the fuse is missing and possibly there is a problem with the outlet... I will know that when I screw in a new fuse...
Until then I was just looking for a response as to what you may have in there...
I really can't measure the length of the wire feeding it or it's actual length as it is in the bulkhead.
Thanks for your reply...
As appears above in my response to Dave's question:
the 12 volt will power a light, phone charger, maybe a 12v small fan, etc...
It is a cigarette style 12 volt outlet... It is the one that came with the boat...
I do know all about electricity, fuses, wiring protection, electrical formulas, resistance, etc.
If there were a fuse in there presently I would know what I should try to replace it with. I could base it on what I was using the outlet for but I thought I would inquire here for an answer.
There is also a reason it is the fuse is missing and possibly there is a problem with the outlet... I will know that when I screw in a new fuse...
Until then I was just looking for a response as to what you may have in there...
I really can't measure the length of the wire feeding it or it's actual length as it is in the bulkhead.
Thanks for your reply...
It is a 12 v cigarette lighter style
Thnks
It is for a 12v cigarette style receptacle.
Thnks
Re: What rating for the Fuse is needed for the accessory 12v
Length of wire will drive the voltage drop but max fusing will be determined by the gage of the wire and its insulation's thermal capacity, not its length. Length matters when considering what NEW wire to run for a circuit's load but since the wire is already there we just need to know what gage it is.
Can you get behind the switch panel to see how large the wire is? Maybe it is printed on there? My hunch is that is is #10 or #12 AWG wire gage. What about the wire going into the socket? Same deal, lets see if we can figure out what size it is.
From there we can recommend a proper fuse sized either to the wire using U.S.C.G. guidelines from table 5 in their CFR33 Subpart I electrical guidelines OR we can add up a potential total load based on your devices you intend to run.
The fuse will be no larger than 40 amps, and probably more like only 15 or 20.
Barring any ability to see the wire and determine how large it is, I would probably pop in a 5A fuse and see what happens. It may pop the fuse with heavier loads but the wiring should be more than protected unless it is really small wire.
Even 18 gage with the lowerst thermal rating in the charts should handle more than 5 amps, so a 5A fuse is very conservatively safe.
EDIT:
After posting this I see Maine Sail's reply below. I agree with him and his is a more thorough answer....
Length of wire will drive the voltage drop but max fusing will be determined by the gage of the wire and its insulation's thermal capacity, not its length. Length matters when considering what NEW wire to run for a circuit's load but since the wire is already there we just need to know what gage it is.
Can you get behind the switch panel to see how large the wire is? Maybe it is printed on there? My hunch is that is is #10 or #12 AWG wire gage. What about the wire going into the socket? Same deal, lets see if we can figure out what size it is.
From there we can recommend a proper fuse sized either to the wire using U.S.C.G. guidelines from table 5 in their CFR33 Subpart I electrical guidelines OR we can add up a potential total load based on your devices you intend to run.
The fuse will be no larger than 40 amps, and probably more like only 15 or 20.
Barring any ability to see the wire and determine how large it is, I would probably pop in a 5A fuse and see what happens. It may pop the fuse with heavier loads but the wiring should be more than protected unless it is really small wire.
Even 18 gage with the lowerst thermal rating in the charts should handle more than 5 amps, so a 5A fuse is very conservatively safe.
EDIT:
After posting this I see Maine Sail's reply below. I agree with him and his is a more thorough answer....
I would limit this fuse to 10 amps. These 12V sockets are notoriously lame at pushing much more than 10A safely. All it takes is a little corrosion/high resistance and they can easily begin to melt down.
Most are only rated for 10A though some are rated for as much as 15A, and that gets scary. I have seen more than a few plastic ones literally melted and deformed.
There are some circuits on a boat that you fuse to protect the device, motor or socket and 12V outlets are one of them.... Yes the wire can handle a LOT more but please be safe and fuse this at 10A..
Here's a prime example of overloading a socket. The socket looked worse than the inverter... The socket end of this inverter used to be straight....
Re: What rating for the Fuse is needed for the accessory 12v
I agree with Maine (as if I am even 1/100th as knowledgeable about this stuff as he is).
I bought a cheapo 12 volt cigarette lighter socket to hook up to an extra car battery in order to charge cell phones and what not after hurricane sandy.
The thing fried itself pretty quickly. Luckily, the nearby westmarine had a higher quality marine grade one in stock.
I agree with Maine (as if I am even 1/100th as knowledgeable about this stuff as he is).
I bought a cheapo 12 volt cigarette lighter socket to hook up to an extra car battery in order to charge cell phones and what not after hurricane sandy.
The thing fried itself pretty quickly. Luckily, the nearby westmarine had a higher quality marine grade one in stock.
Re: What rating for the Fuse is needed for the accessory 12v
Take a hint from your automobile. Fuses mostly range from 5A to 20A. I would take a SWG (scientific wild guess) and say a 10A would work just fine.
Take a hint from your automobile. Fuses mostly range from 5A to 20A. I would take a SWG (scientific wild guess) and say a 10A would work just fine.
Re: What rating for the Fuse is needed for the accessory 12v
ABK;
If you are talking about a thru hull transducer, the only area is under the rear berth behind the water ballast tank sometimes adjacent to the bilge pump. If you are planning a non thru hull type advice, the same area will do likewise.
Some have suggested cutting into the ballast tank and I have always said that is not a good idea. Forward under the V Berth there are several issues there too for not installing either. The only other is on the end of the transom if using the style for that style application
ABK;
If you are talking about a thru hull transducer, the only area is under the rear berth behind the water ballast tank sometimes adjacent to the bilge pump. If you are planning a non thru hull type advice, the same area will do likewise.
Some have suggested cutting into the ballast tank and I have always said that is not a good idea. Forward under the V Berth there are several issues there too for not installing either. The only other is on the end of the transom if using the style for that style application
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