My 29.5, Yanmar 2GM20F with 2.62 reduction, currently has a Campbell Sailer 3 Blade 14 X 8 prop. Problem is I think it is overloading the engine. Can only reach 3000 RPM full throttle and have much black smoke above about 2800 RPM. I have had the injectors serviced, tach accuracy checked. This prop was sized by West by North Enterprises folks who deal in the Campbell Sailer and was supposed to be correct for this model boat and engine combination. I was curious what you other 29.5 owners have installed for your prop and what full throttle RPM and speed you can achieve. Any help appreciated. Thanks Grant Ziebell SV Nemo Pensacola FL
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ask for norm
If norm still works there he was very helpful to me with my prop. just tell him the problems you are having and he will tell you what to do. my engine also wouldn't come up to speed so he suggested a reduction in pitch. i did it and now it works like a dream.. the specs they give you are using AVERAGE EVERYTHING so after considering that nobody is average and each boat/owner has it there way sometimes it has to be TWEEKED to your conditions... i love my prop. All to often what is supplied as standard is just what the factory supplies and is just ok and we accept it at that....not necessarly the best for our situation
If norm still works there he was very helpful to me with my prop. just tell him the problems you are having and he will tell you what to do. my engine also wouldn't come up to speed so he suggested a reduction in pitch. i did it and now it works like a dream.. the specs they give you are using AVERAGE EVERYTHING so after considering that nobody is average and each boat/owner has it there way sometimes it has to be TWEEKED to your conditions... i love my prop. All to often what is supplied as standard is just what the factory supplies and is just ok and we accept it at that....not necessarly the best for our situation
15x12
Grant,standard prop is a 15x12 two blade.Since you upgrade to a three blade it becomes a "custom" there are lots of places that will run a prop spec (try michigan prop)Give them all info engine trans ratio weigth etc etc and they will spec you a prop. I hope this is what was done originaly but it seams somewhere somethng was missed. Unless you were having engine trouble before you put on new prop you are overproped.Your engine should cruise at 2700 to 3000 rpm with a wide open throttle of 3400 to 3600. You are way below those specs. You need to take several degree of pitch off and possible reduce the diameter an inch. I suggest you go back to where you bought it and or deal with campbl prop direct and get another the numbers run again. All this is based on nothing changed but the prop and you can alway put the old prop back on to test if need be. What will the engine rev up to out of gear? Will it get to 3600 rpm ? with no black smoke ? Good Luck and let us know what the correct size is or what was the problem. Not sure why the link won't work but it is www.miwheel.com
Grant,standard prop is a 15x12 two blade.Since you upgrade to a three blade it becomes a "custom" there are lots of places that will run a prop spec (try michigan prop)Give them all info engine trans ratio weigth etc etc and they will spec you a prop. I hope this is what was done originaly but it seams somewhere somethng was missed. Unless you were having engine trouble before you put on new prop you are overproped.Your engine should cruise at 2700 to 3000 rpm with a wide open throttle of 3400 to 3600. You are way below those specs. You need to take several degree of pitch off and possible reduce the diameter an inch. I suggest you go back to where you bought it and or deal with campbl prop direct and get another the numbers run again. All this is based on nothing changed but the prop and you can alway put the old prop back on to test if need be. What will the engine rev up to out of gear? Will it get to 3600 rpm ? with no black smoke ? Good Luck and let us know what the correct size is or what was the problem. Not sure why the link won't work but it is www.miwheel.com
Did this prop EVER work properly?
Grant: I think you really need to check out the mixing elbow. I do not know much about the Campbell Sailor prop, but it would appear that this prop is quite a bit smaller in diameter & pitch than the stock units (somewhere between 15x12 & 15x10). Normally they remove 1 deg of pitch or 1 in. of diameter when going from a 2 blade to a 3 blade. That may not be true with the Campbell. The mixing elbow will restrict the breathing of the engine and will cause this problem. It is sometimes a difficult job to remove the elbow. There are four bolts that hold the manifold/elbow to the engine block. The worst parts of the job are usually getting the exhaust hose off of the elbow and getting the elbow separated from the manifold. If you check out the attached link from the photo forum it may help a little. You will probably need two large pipe wrenches and some breaker bars the separate the two pieces. The coupling that attaches the manifold tot he elbow has reverse threads (one right and the other left). It is also a good idea to have a torch to heat the pieces to assist in the dismantling.
Grant: I think you really need to check out the mixing elbow. I do not know much about the Campbell Sailor prop, but it would appear that this prop is quite a bit smaller in diameter & pitch than the stock units (somewhere between 15x12 & 15x10). Normally they remove 1 deg of pitch or 1 in. of diameter when going from a 2 blade to a 3 blade. That may not be true with the Campbell. The mixing elbow will restrict the breathing of the engine and will cause this problem. It is sometimes a difficult job to remove the elbow. There are four bolts that hold the manifold/elbow to the engine block. The worst parts of the job are usually getting the exhaust hose off of the elbow and getting the elbow separated from the manifold. If you check out the attached link from the photo forum it may help a little. You will probably need two large pipe wrenches and some breaker bars the separate the two pieces. The coupling that attaches the manifold tot he elbow has reverse threads (one right and the other left). It is also a good idea to have a torch to heat the pieces to assist in the dismantling.
Depends On ....
..how long ago the current elbow was fitted. I just changed mine and had to cabbage the old nipple to salvage the cast exhaust portion of the elbow. My suggestion is that you should buy the nipple and elbow, complete with a manifold gasket of course, and don't even bother trying to salvage the old. It will probably be corroded beyond re-use. My total bill came to around $120 all in. Oh and another tip on the hose: it certainly is a pig, but if you leave it until you have unbolted the exhaust manifold off the engine before you try to remove it, and make it the first piece you refit when putting it all back together after you have fitted the elbow to the manifold with the left hand / right hand thread nipple, it takes the hassle out the job for sure. Hope this helps.
..how long ago the current elbow was fitted. I just changed mine and had to cabbage the old nipple to salvage the cast exhaust portion of the elbow. My suggestion is that you should buy the nipple and elbow, complete with a manifold gasket of course, and don't even bother trying to salvage the old. It will probably be corroded beyond re-use. My total bill came to around $120 all in. Oh and another tip on the hose: it certainly is a pig, but if you leave it until you have unbolted the exhaust manifold off the engine before you try to remove it, and make it the first piece you refit when putting it all back together after you have fitted the elbow to the manifold with the left hand / right hand thread nipple, it takes the hassle out the job for sure. Hope this helps.
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