Hi I am new to this forum. Got myself a Catalina 310, model 2006/7 in Miami.
I had similar break issues (break wouldn’t engage) and decided to dismantle my steering. Using the autopilot as alternative break is very risky and will break the platic parts. The manufacturer doesn’t recommend using the autopilot over 14kt wind!
The manual from Edson is very brief..
1. Remove steering wheel
2. remove compass
3.. Remove engine controls
Etc
Well that sounds great until you actually do it.
Steering wheel is connected with the autopilot etc.
1. On my boat all 4 long bolts holding compass, collar for steering are stuck. I applied generously different lubricants / light tapping over a few days without any results. The screw heads were partially stripped, so I used welder’s pliers. Looks like these bolts have never seen any grease. Two 5” bolts broke midway and I had to drill them out, damaging the cast aluminum.
2. These 1/4” x5” screws connect directly into cast aluminum threads! The cast is very fragile, one corner broke during the extraction (drilling) of one screw.
3. I have direct drive break, not a side brake like older Edson systems. The reason why most of us encounter lack of break pressure is a 1/4” thick bolt. In my case it was completely bent and fell out.. found it at the bottom of my steering column.
That bolt is friction mounted. You have to hammer it in.. but apparently over time it gets loose. Once it slips you can inadvertently bend it. Edson changed me $120-140 for a new bolt and pad.
4. It took me 2-3 days removing the compass and collar with the engine controls.
5. Soon afterwards I realized you need to remove the steering chain/cables as well. It’s explained in the Edson brochure as well.
6. Meaning you need to remove part of the autopilot below deck giving you enough space to work down there.
7. Surprise, the chain was in great condition, but it the steel cable with a thimble was partially fractured. I am grateful it happened at the mooring ball. Edson wants something around $300-400 for such parts, I went local and got it replaced for $80.
8. Next step the steering assembly…Edson manual recommended light tapping with a hammer AND alignment of two lock washers. Plus two worm screws.
Well mine had only one lock washers and it drove me crazy looking for the second. Not knowing where it went.
9. No matter how carefully I tapped it wouldn’t move much, after 4 hours It moved 1/8”.. making me very nervous that I missed the second lock washer. I called Edson and they told me that salt water, metal shavings and dirt can be challenging. Continue to tap..provided the lock washers are lined up correctly.
10. The hammer didn’t get me anywhere and it started to show light damage on the shaft. Instead I built myself a press, using the shaft and the large nut applying pressure. I used different lengths 1-14” ID pipe sections and pressed the whole assembly out. Much better approach.
11. Surprise: There was a second lock washer but not at its proper location, it was towards the break pad. Rendering the lock system dangerously weak.
12. The amount of black grease/metal dust/dirt was surprising and explained the difficult extraction.
13. Took all parts home and cleaned them there with a W-40 bath and brushes.
14. The main shaft was partially damaged when the bolt bent and fell out. The two worm screws threads location were partially stressed. Meaning the shaft had some areas with uneven diameter sizes. I had two options bringing it to a mechanic shop to have straighten or use file and sand paper. Getting the bumps out. I went for the second option and after a few adjustments all parts would fit nicely together again.
Now I could start the reconstruction part:
1. The damage cast aluminum was repaired with expoy mastic. Replaced the drilled out screws with stainless rods and nuts. I felt confident it will hold, since only pressure will be applied. The epoxy is mostly holding threaded rodes and nuts in place.
2. I highly recommend to install some kind of “bucket” below the assembly inside the steering column. I spend hours fishing magnetic and non magnetic items during this project
) Edson recommends a fabric, you could use a sponge, balloon or similar, keep in mind you need to remove it once all parts are in..
3. have some tweezers or similar tools handy, because you finger will push the parts further down even it you installed a “plug”. Happend to me twice and I lost hours in fishing expeditions. No fun.. so prepare for it.
4. Do some dry runs with shaft assembly until you know it by heart and understand the principles.
5. Install it without, grease, the lock washer or worm screws. It takes a couple tries until you get the feeling how to push it in.. surprisingly you don’t need a hammer. It just slides in. If not, something is wrong.
6. Apply lubricant to all parts. Just a little. Install assembly as show in manufacturer documents. Do some testing
7. Hammer in the break bolt
8. Add some lubricants with a needle and grease pump into the bearing cavity.
9. Chain goes back in place with a new steering cable.
10. Install engine control
11. Ony then remove safety/collection bucket/ towel or similar inside the steering column.
12. The worst is over..
13. Install compass and the compass light
14. Test engine and engine control
15. install cables back on quadrant.. that’s where the fun continues.. after bending and bruising my ribs. I build a “wooden bridge” from the tank mount towards the hatch and added some foam cushions.
16. it will take you a couple tries until the cables have new thimbles and clamps at the right length.
17. now you can install the autopilot once your steering feels right.
My question to you:
What the maximum angle movement of the rudder in each direction, because I fear the stop cables in my boat have been wrongly installed. Which would be consistent with assembly of the steering shaft
I could not find anything in my Catalina Boats Manual.
Does anyone know?
