Planning ahead for next fall, I want to give my bottom a good sanding to even out any rough spots, fair in any spots that need it and maybe switch from interlux bottomkote to vc17. I am going to do a test next spring by having a friend apply a spot of vc17 and see how it reacts to my paint over the summer. If successful i will switch, if not i will not. dont care to take it all the way down on my 34. my question is about the type of sander to use. it will have to be electric not air. and some type of bag for sure to capture the dust. what kind and brand should i be looking for? and any thoughts on the vc17 over the bottomkote? thanks.craig
- Status
I use a random orbit
Sander that uses stick on sandpaper with holes to allow the particles into the bag on the sander itself, or, I attach my 2 gallon wet/dry vaccum, this helps keep the dust down, not totally, but it helps. I also use 80 grit paper on the rough spots, then 100 or 150 grit. I got the sander and vaccum at sears, but the same types are available most any hardware or home store. Remember, that bottom paint is VERY toxic, wear head to foot protection, and a good respriator.
Sander that uses stick on sandpaper with holes to allow the particles into the bag on the sander itself, or, I attach my 2 gallon wet/dry vaccum, this helps keep the dust down, not totally, but it helps. I also use 80 grit paper on the rough spots, then 100 or 150 grit. I got the sander and vaccum at sears, but the same types are available most any hardware or home store. Remember, that bottom paint is VERY toxic, wear head to foot protection, and a good respriator.
Also random orbit. . .
but it is too agressive with too little vacuum. Like John I have tried to use my shop-vac while sanding, still too much dust in the air. And this is while keeping the hull wet. So I usually end up doing it by hand, lots of water and plastic on the ground. Next season I will look at a larger commercial vacuum sander from a rental company. I use a modified epoxy(Trinidad SR) because it is hard, smooth, and fast. If I sand a little each Spring I do not get any buildup.
but it is too agressive with too little vacuum. Like John I have tried to use my shop-vac while sanding, still too much dust in the air. And this is while keeping the hull wet. So I usually end up doing it by hand, lots of water and plastic on the ground. Next season I will look at a larger commercial vacuum sander from a rental company. I use a modified epoxy(Trinidad SR) because it is hard, smooth, and fast. If I sand a little each Spring I do not get any buildup.
NONE
If you want the paint off use a stripper. Otherwise light sand with a sanding block! Don't use VC-17. I does not stick to other paint well.
If you want the paint off use a stripper. Otherwise light sand with a sanding block! Don't use VC-17. I does not stick to other paint well.
Random Orbital w/ Shop Vac
A random orbital suction sander, with holes in the sand paper, connected to a shop vac is the best way to go (actually, having the yard do it is really the best way to go!). My sander is a Bosch and the shop vac is a really ancient Sears model which is fairly large. The connection hose, a Bosch acccessory, is about 25 feet long (expensive but worth it) and I used a hose adaptor from Eagle (now Lowes) at the shop vac end. Drywall bag: Use a drywall bag in the shop vac to protect the motor. The paint has copper in it which can mess up the motor. Connecting hose: empty it periodically. The random orbital sander is typically at head height and the entrance to the shop vac is about 2.5 to 3 feet above ground. The heavy bottom paint dust easily settles out in the connecting hose and accumulates there. Periodically lift the connecting hose up from the sander to the shop vac to empty the dust out. Better to do it gradually so as not to dump a big load in the shop vac. Everything I use now is blue so don't get upset if your new sander changes color.
A random orbital suction sander, with holes in the sand paper, connected to a shop vac is the best way to go (actually, having the yard do it is really the best way to go!). My sander is a Bosch and the shop vac is a really ancient Sears model which is fairly large. The connection hose, a Bosch acccessory, is about 25 feet long (expensive but worth it) and I used a hose adaptor from Eagle (now Lowes) at the shop vac end. Drywall bag: Use a drywall bag in the shop vac to protect the motor. The paint has copper in it which can mess up the motor. Connecting hose: empty it periodically. The random orbital sander is typically at head height and the entrance to the shop vac is about 2.5 to 3 feet above ground. The heavy bottom paint dust easily settles out in the connecting hose and accumulates there. Periodically lift the connecting hose up from the sander to the shop vac to empty the dust out. Better to do it gradually so as not to dump a big load in the shop vac. Everything I use now is blue so don't get upset if your new sander changes color.
MOST YARDS REQUIRE THAT YOU TENT...
when using power sanding equipment. So rather than tent I do what Jim does, manual. As long as the old material has a good bond a good power wash, let dry, then a light sanding to give the old material tooth should do it. I also feather any spots of peeling and scrape off any loose material. I use the same sanding materials that dry wall contractors use to prep dried wall compound before painting, from Home Depot or Lowes. Good luck. Terry
when using power sanding equipment. So rather than tent I do what Jim does, manual. As long as the old material has a good bond a good power wash, let dry, then a light sanding to give the old material tooth should do it. I also feather any spots of peeling and scrape off any loose material. I use the same sanding materials that dry wall contractors use to prep dried wall compound before painting, from Home Depot or Lowes. Good luck. Terry
3M Pad
I'm doing my bottom paint now, and the yard recommended using a 3M scuff pad---same thing you use on your barbeque. No more sanding!
I'm doing my bottom paint now, and the yard recommended using a 3M scuff pad---same thing you use on your barbeque. No more sanding!
Water hose works for me..
I just made sure I washed all the powder into the woods with a hose each day I sanded, made a little river of blue each evening to wash the evidence away... done and gone. good for the little birds and things. just ask al.
I just made sure I washed all the powder into the woods with a hose each day I sanded, made a little river of blue each evening to wash the evidence away... done and gone. good for the little birds and things. just ask al.
old-fashioned disc sander?
I dislike an orbital sander because of the intense vibration passed on to the arms when using a cheaper one (like mine). I am looking for a replacement for the old 115vac Black-and-Decker disc sander I used to use at work. It looks like a hand-held grinder but runs at like 1400-1700 RPM. Typically you fit this with a 6-inch pad on which you can put foam-backed sandpaper or even grinding discs. It is an extremely safe and versatile little weapon. It is frequently considered an auto-body tool though most auto-body shops now use air rigs. Most new devices of this type are MUCH too fast and too powerful for fibreglass work. One indicated 10,000-14,000 RPM-- WAY too much!!! It'll eat through the hull. And if a piece gets loose and heads for your head.... I have not found ANYTHING like what I used to have in recent searching. Does anyone know of anything like this still available? EMail me if you have a clue... please JC JComet@aol.com
I dislike an orbital sander because of the intense vibration passed on to the arms when using a cheaper one (like mine). I am looking for a replacement for the old 115vac Black-and-Decker disc sander I used to use at work. It looks like a hand-held grinder but runs at like 1400-1700 RPM. Typically you fit this with a 6-inch pad on which you can put foam-backed sandpaper or even grinding discs. It is an extremely safe and versatile little weapon. It is frequently considered an auto-body tool though most auto-body shops now use air rigs. Most new devices of this type are MUCH too fast and too powerful for fibreglass work. One indicated 10,000-14,000 RPM-- WAY too much!!! It'll eat through the hull. And if a piece gets loose and heads for your head.... I have not found ANYTHING like what I used to have in recent searching. Does anyone know of anything like this still available? EMail me if you have a clue... please JC JComet@aol.com
- Status