what gives?????

Sep 20, 2011
135
hunter 30 md
1980 hunter 30
My dilemna is,,, the only switch that works on my fuse box panel is cabin lights, no other switch works, and neither does shore power. Any help or ideas appreciated
Will
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Once had an H27 owner tell me his batteries would not charge. He had the shorepower cord plugged in but there was no charger. Things are so well hidden on the Cherubinis that someone would almost have to be on your boat to answer your question.

If cabin lights work then the batteries at least are wired to the panel. Now you have to get behind the panel to see how the other breakers like running lights and bilge pump are wired. Breakers do fail even when wired correctly. I'm suspecting that the main ground connection from the engine to the panel could be at least part of the problem. There are several places on HOW that you can find a wiring diagram if you do not have one.
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
if you own a boat with electrical power of any type on it, one of the main tools you NEED to have is a multimeter... and some simple instruction on how to hook it up.

after that all you need to do is get to the back side of the switch panel... and test away.

you know you have "power and ground" to the light switch, so with those wires carrying current to and from, you can then test all the other circuits on the panel using those two wires as the constant that you know to be good....

along with the multimeter, a jumper wire is a handy item to have also.... you can use it to connect two terminals together to jump power from one terminal to another that should have power but doesnt... for test purposes.

you will probably fine either a bad ground or a blown fuse on the hot wire to a buss bar.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,050
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Charlie Wing's Boat Electrical book oughta be right up there with a DVM. Available for free on the internet-webbie-tubie thingie.
 
Apr 16, 2014
94
Hunter 27 Brick, NJ
I had a similar problem when I purchased my 1979 Hunter 27 last spring. Every electrical device was dead except for one cabin light over the table. I'm no stranger to electricity so I promptly popped off the main panel to have a look and what I found was massive corrosion everywhere. The hot leads, the ground wires, the switches, everything, was covered in corrosion to the point where it did not carry electricity. I even popped off the lights to see what their deal was and found that the metal casing that grounds them was 100% rust. I had to run wires directly to the contacts on the bulbs to get them to work correctly. I also had to sand the rust off of every OEM switch (so I wouldn't have to replace them) and re-run MILES of wire all over the boat. I also had to replace the bulbs in most of my cabin lights, running lights (dead bulbs, faded lenses), the steaming light bulb, anchor light bulb, and the stern light bulb. In addition to those problems the PO had connected all the ground wires to a rusted bolt ON THE TRANSMISSION. IDIOT. I had to take that apart, and connect everything to a terminal block so it would work correctly. I also replaced my vapor tight switch because while the old one worked, it was rusted to crap and I doubted its vapor-tightness. It took me months to get everything right again.

Point is you either have a huge pain in the ass problem, or a simpler problem. However, from what you describe I bet you have a lot of work in front of you. Buy a multimeter and get to work! Good luck.
 
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Jan 4, 2007
406
Hunter 30 Centerport
When I got my 83 H30 the cabin lights would not go on. I traced the problem to a bad circuit breaker in the panel.

Get a multi meter and if the connections on the panel look OK check the breakers. BA basic understanding of electric, a multimeter and a wire with a clip on one end and a pointed probe on he other can so wonders to tracing a problem.
 
May 27, 2004
2,055
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
Ditto all the above (except the corrosion, in my case) and don't forget to disconnect the shore power before you remove the inside panel cover!!! (If there is no rear /inside cover or it's toast, a dish pan by Rubbermaid works well after modification cut one side down to allow wires to exit). Those 115 Volt wires could arc across your 1)Fingers 2)multimeter 3)Screw Driver 4)Wedding or other ring 5)Loose wires from 12V side.
And yes, I know from experience.

You can try to remove the screws on the front of the panel first... I wouldn't. The rats nest from the factory will cause problems if you pull too hard.

Make sure you label EVERY wire before removing any. Remember some dome light wires and nav light wires are spliced and run forward and aft after the splice.

The job is daunting but do-able with patience and asking lots of questions about wire connectors, shrink tubing, lost or missing screws, chafing, wire ties etc. Not to scare you, but don't plan on a weekend project if you're new to the task and want to do it correctly.
 
May 27, 2004
2,055
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
And I just thought...
The interior light breaker is the top switch on the panel...
Maybe the corrosion hasn't made it that far up?