In a couple of weeks, (hopefully if the #$&^%$ snow stops) I will be launching a 1987 Hunter 31. She is a fine rig, well taken care of and well rigged. I bought the boat in December and have had little time to do much so far. She last sailed in 1999. What besides changing oil, new water pump impeller should I do for the launch. I need to be sure as I am sailing her to my port about 45 miles up the beach. Any thoughts would be welcomed. Regards-------Dana
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Wht I'd do
Dana, Check every system that you can while she is still on the hard. Once she is re-launched, check all of her thru hulls for smooth operation and no leaks first. Then her drive shaft. It is most important that she doesn't sink. After you are sure no water is entering, your next job is to be sure her engine works well, and that she can steer properly since you have a fair distance to travel before you are home. Check her rudder and steering system for excess play, and lube or adjust for ease of operation and smoothness. If you have no idea how to do this, get someone with a bit of experience to help. It's not rocket science, but if you can't steer, you can't get home. Next, you need to be sure that your engine is running well. There are three things that cause problems for diesel engines(which I assume you have):Fuel, fuel & fuel! Clean fresh diesel from a clean tank going thru clean filters to your engine is imperative to having zero problems! Sails/rigging, well, someone else needs to step up and help out here as I'm out of time to write! Good Luck and happy sailing! Ron Hughes skipper s/v Best Revenge. H 40.5
Dana, Check every system that you can while she is still on the hard. Once she is re-launched, check all of her thru hulls for smooth operation and no leaks first. Then her drive shaft. It is most important that she doesn't sink. After you are sure no water is entering, your next job is to be sure her engine works well, and that she can steer properly since you have a fair distance to travel before you are home. Check her rudder and steering system for excess play, and lube or adjust for ease of operation and smoothness. If you have no idea how to do this, get someone with a bit of experience to help. It's not rocket science, but if you can't steer, you can't get home. Next, you need to be sure that your engine is running well. There are three things that cause problems for diesel engines(which I assume you have):Fuel, fuel & fuel! Clean fresh diesel from a clean tank going thru clean filters to your engine is imperative to having zero problems! Sails/rigging, well, someone else needs to step up and help out here as I'm out of time to write! Good Luck and happy sailing! Ron Hughes skipper s/v Best Revenge. H 40.5
thru-hulls
inspect and lube the thru-hulls before you launch. replace the shaft zincs. lube the turnbuckles with penetrating oil, and inspect EVERY INCH of standing rigging. same with lifelines. cover all forward turbuckles with rigger's tape.
inspect and lube the thru-hulls before you launch. replace the shaft zincs. lube the turnbuckles with penetrating oil, and inspect EVERY INCH of standing rigging. same with lifelines. cover all forward turbuckles with rigger's tape.
In addition....
to the other recomendations..check and make sure your bilge pump works, you have your emergency tiller, and lets not forget the life jackets.
to the other recomendations..check and make sure your bilge pump works, you have your emergency tiller, and lets not forget the life jackets.
hoses
Check all hoses: raw water intake, water pump and cooling system hoses, and sanitary hoses. Broken or cracked hoses can sink you. Double clamp all hoses below waterline. Better yet, double clamp all hoses, period.
Check all hoses: raw water intake, water pump and cooling system hoses, and sanitary hoses. Broken or cracked hoses can sink you. Double clamp all hoses below waterline. Better yet, double clamp all hoses, period.
One problem?
You are always told to change the oil. But it is almost impossible unless it is very warm. So you either need to run the engine with the old oil or find a way to heat the oil. I always launch with the old oil. By the time I get away from the crane and tie up the oil is hot. Then I use the pump through the dipstick to get all that I can and then change the filter. Some Yanmars have a plug on the bottom of the crankcase where you can get another few drops and maybe some crud. I make sure she turns over and starts while still on the hard. A bucket and a hose with a shutoff is sufficient for this. In neutral of course. I want to know that the batteries, starter, and fuel system are working before they hang her.
You are always told to change the oil. But it is almost impossible unless it is very warm. So you either need to run the engine with the old oil or find a way to heat the oil. I always launch with the old oil. By the time I get away from the crane and tie up the oil is hot. Then I use the pump through the dipstick to get all that I can and then change the filter. Some Yanmars have a plug on the bottom of the crankcase where you can get another few drops and maybe some crud. I make sure she turns over and starts while still on the hard. A bucket and a hose with a shutoff is sufficient for this. In neutral of course. I want to know that the batteries, starter, and fuel system are working before they hang her.
Be sure to check the brakes
Double check your ground tackle make sure it's adequate and in good shape and that the rode is free to run out. If you have a problem, it will probably show itself before you leave the haul out slip, but I'd take a look at my charts and have several contingency plans incase you have to shorten the trip.
Double check your ground tackle make sure it's adequate and in good shape and that the rode is free to run out. If you have a problem, it will probably show itself before you leave the haul out slip, but I'd take a look at my charts and have several contingency plans incase you have to shorten the trip.
Check Yanmar
Dear Dana, I have recently heard some sad stories about Yanmar engines that have sat for a while. It would pay to possibly check it out with Yanmar prior to start up. good luck and Happy sailing, Mike D
Dear Dana, I have recently heard some sad stories about Yanmar engines that have sat for a while. It would pay to possibly check it out with Yanmar prior to start up. good luck and Happy sailing, Mike D
Thanks Gentlemen
Thanks for all the great tips, some I wouldn't have checked. This is a GREAT sight. I will bump back on this thread after launch and let you know how it went. Again, thanks and regards-----Dana
Thanks for all the great tips, some I wouldn't have checked. This is a GREAT sight. I will bump back on this thread after launch and let you know how it went. Again, thanks and regards-----Dana
Pull the prop shaft
I just spent a few days working on our 1987. Since I did not know when it had been changed, I replaced my stuffing box hose. I learned a great deal on that project. 1. It is a bear to pull the coupling off of the prop shaft. After five hours of hard work I'm glad I did it. 2. The hose was in worse shape than it appeared to be from what I could see with it in place. It may have lasted this season but I'm real glad to have a new one there. 3. When I removed the hose clamps one fell apart. Good lesson in double clamping. 4. The 28 cent brass key between the prop shaft and coupling was shot. Probably the result of the coupling setscrews not being tight enough coupled with countless shifts from forward to reverse. 5. With a worn key, I checked the keyways in the coupling and prop shaft. They were both OK. It was a lot of labor, but with a $9 hose, a $1 foot of flax, a new key and new clamps we managed to do a repair on our own before the season began. My advise: pull the prop shaft, inspect the parts, and replace the stuffing box hose and flax seal. Cheap parts but lots of hard labor!
I just spent a few days working on our 1987. Since I did not know when it had been changed, I replaced my stuffing box hose. I learned a great deal on that project. 1. It is a bear to pull the coupling off of the prop shaft. After five hours of hard work I'm glad I did it. 2. The hose was in worse shape than it appeared to be from what I could see with it in place. It may have lasted this season but I'm real glad to have a new one there. 3. When I removed the hose clamps one fell apart. Good lesson in double clamping. 4. The 28 cent brass key between the prop shaft and coupling was shot. Probably the result of the coupling setscrews not being tight enough coupled with countless shifts from forward to reverse. 5. With a worn key, I checked the keyways in the coupling and prop shaft. They were both OK. It was a lot of labor, but with a $9 hose, a $1 foot of flax, a new key and new clamps we managed to do a repair on our own before the season began. My advise: pull the prop shaft, inspect the parts, and replace the stuffing box hose and flax seal. Cheap parts but lots of hard labor!
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