Gordon, thanks so much for your taking the time to respond to questions in this forum. I have learned plenty from your answers. As I fumble my way around my Yanmar 2GF, I have found two things that puzzled me (well, hundreds, but only two that I can describe). First, while trying to stem the legendary leakage around the second bleeder screw on the second fuel filter, I discovered that the screw has machined into it two small holes. I carefully avoided blocking them as I applied teflon tape to the threads above the top one, and the seepage has stopped. But please explain the holes. Second, there are two levers, one above each cylinder, that move easily back and forth, with a click at each end, labelled (but never described) in the manual as "decompression levers." What are they for, and can they be used to stop a runaway? Once again, thanks for your generous support.
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Holes, Holes Everywhere
The two holes in the bolt are connected to a third hole that comes in from the bottom of the bolt to let the air out( bleeding) of the fuel system. You unscrew the bolt, pump on the lift pump lever until only fuel ( no bubbles) comes out of the holes in the bolt and then screw down the bolt and start the engine. The 2 levers are to decompress the cylinders, to open up an opening to the outside so that you can turn over the engine by hand, or for any other reason you might have. With these levers in the open position you will not be able to start the engine.
The two holes in the bolt are connected to a third hole that comes in from the bottom of the bolt to let the air out( bleeding) of the fuel system. You unscrew the bolt, pump on the lift pump lever until only fuel ( no bubbles) comes out of the holes in the bolt and then screw down the bolt and start the engine. The 2 levers are to decompress the cylinders, to open up an opening to the outside so that you can turn over the engine by hand, or for any other reason you might have. With these levers in the open position you will not be able to start the engine.
Another not on de-compression levers
Gene: George mentioned that the decompression levers can be used when hand cranking the engine. We have also used them when our batteries were headed south. Crank the engine with the levers open. With the engine turning at high speed, close the levers and the engine will start easily (assuming that it starts easy with a good battery).
Gene: George mentioned that the decompression levers can be used when hand cranking the engine. We have also used them when our batteries were headed south. Crank the engine with the levers open. With the engine turning at high speed, close the levers and the engine will start easily (assuming that it starts easy with a good battery).
Runaway Engine
A runaway engine can be very dangerous and it does happen, albiet infrequently. From a fuel standpoint this can be caused by sludge buildup in the fuel return line, a pinched fuel return line (such as something resting on the line), etc. On a runaway the normal shutoff does not work and the engine winds up to maximum RPMs, lots of smoke and steam come out the exhaust - looks and sounds like the engine is on fire! The engine is reving to the point you think it will come apart. What to do? Keep your head! Open the access to the side of the engine with the air intake and take a heavy shoe and put the sole up against the intake to starve the engine of air. Then it will stop. DO NOT use a hand. Rags will be sucked in. I've seen this first hand several times and it's not something for the faint of heart. Most sailors, I think, would not be prepared. Shutting off the fuel supply takes too long.
A runaway engine can be very dangerous and it does happen, albiet infrequently. From a fuel standpoint this can be caused by sludge buildup in the fuel return line, a pinched fuel return line (such as something resting on the line), etc. On a runaway the normal shutoff does not work and the engine winds up to maximum RPMs, lots of smoke and steam come out the exhaust - looks and sounds like the engine is on fire! The engine is reving to the point you think it will come apart. What to do? Keep your head! Open the access to the side of the engine with the air intake and take a heavy shoe and put the sole up against the intake to starve the engine of air. Then it will stop. DO NOT use a hand. Rags will be sucked in. I've seen this first hand several times and it's not something for the faint of heart. Most sailors, I think, would not be prepared. Shutting off the fuel supply takes too long.
How do you shut off fuel supply on 320
Thanks for the information on how to stop the engine. Does anyone know where the fuel supply cutoff is on the 320? I have a new 2001 and am still learning about it. Regards, Gary
Thanks for the information on how to stop the engine. Does anyone know where the fuel supply cutoff is on the 320? I have a new 2001 and am still learning about it. Regards, Gary
Gary - Fuel Shutoff
If your 320 is like my 340, there is a shutoff valve near the fuel tank. I don't know about the 320 but access to the fuel shutoff valve on the 340 is through the port lazzarette. I have to remove all of the lines, cleaning supplies etc to get to it. There is a removable panel in the bottom floor of the lazzarette to gain access to the top of fuel tank. When I remove the panel I can then access the fuel shutoff valve. My dealer showed me this during commissioning. It is good to familiarize yourself with thru hull locations and find all of these type of things in case you need them. It is smart to shut of the valve when away from the boat or when changing the Racor fuel filter so you do not empty the fuel tank into the bilge. Good luck with your new 320.
If your 320 is like my 340, there is a shutoff valve near the fuel tank. I don't know about the 320 but access to the fuel shutoff valve on the 340 is through the port lazzarette. I have to remove all of the lines, cleaning supplies etc to get to it. There is a removable panel in the bottom floor of the lazzarette to gain access to the top of fuel tank. When I remove the panel I can then access the fuel shutoff valve. My dealer showed me this during commissioning. It is good to familiarize yourself with thru hull locations and find all of these type of things in case you need them. It is smart to shut of the valve when away from the boat or when changing the Racor fuel filter so you do not empty the fuel tank into the bilge. Good luck with your new 320.
Holes
I believe the holy bolt you are describing is what's commonly called a "banjo bolt". a passage comes into the end of the bolt and exits out the two holes on the sides. The bolt is put through the banjo and fluid can then pass from a line, through the banjo and into another passage that is 90 deg. to the line. A word of caution, the use of teflon tape, or any other thread sealant, is VERY dangerous at the secondary fuel filter. This filter is there to stop anything foreign from entering the highly precision injector pump, Installing thread sealers may result in those products by-passing the filter element. The banjo method of connection seal is designed to function through the compression of soft copper washers on either side of the banjo. The seal works as designed. New washers must be used each time the banjo bolt is loosened. Once squeezed, the washers "work harden" and no longer will conform to new shapes. Why anyone would loosen those bolts in the first place is beyond me. When installing a banjo bolt with new washers, the banjo MUST NOT rotate as the hex is turned. In fact, holding the banjo slightly against the direction of tightening, while tightening, helps to keep the system secure. The compression release handles operate a cams that hold exhaust valves open. They are good for reasons in the other posts. They are also good for shutting down a runaway engine. Yanmar runaways are unheard of since the Y series engines and are the result of the engine burning the oil in its crankcase, usually because it was overfilled. Shutting off the fuel has no effect.
I believe the holy bolt you are describing is what's commonly called a "banjo bolt". a passage comes into the end of the bolt and exits out the two holes on the sides. The bolt is put through the banjo and fluid can then pass from a line, through the banjo and into another passage that is 90 deg. to the line. A word of caution, the use of teflon tape, or any other thread sealant, is VERY dangerous at the secondary fuel filter. This filter is there to stop anything foreign from entering the highly precision injector pump, Installing thread sealers may result in those products by-passing the filter element. The banjo method of connection seal is designed to function through the compression of soft copper washers on either side of the banjo. The seal works as designed. New washers must be used each time the banjo bolt is loosened. Once squeezed, the washers "work harden" and no longer will conform to new shapes. Why anyone would loosen those bolts in the first place is beyond me. When installing a banjo bolt with new washers, the banjo MUST NOT rotate as the hex is turned. In fact, holding the banjo slightly against the direction of tightening, while tightening, helps to keep the system secure. The compression release handles operate a cams that hold exhaust valves open. They are good for reasons in the other posts. They are also good for shutting down a runaway engine. Yanmar runaways are unheard of since the Y series engines and are the result of the engine burning the oil in its crankcase, usually because it was overfilled. Shutting off the fuel has no effect.
Thanks, Gordon
Appreciate the advice. To answer your questions, though, the reason the bolt was loosened was to try to stop the leak. The reason teflon tape was used was because I couldn't get the copper washers anywhere - tried every marine and hardware place around. Where do you get them?
Appreciate the advice. To answer your questions, though, the reason the bolt was loosened was to try to stop the leak. The reason teflon tape was used was because I couldn't get the copper washers anywhere - tried every marine and hardware place around. Where do you get them?
Copper washers
Diesel Direct maintains a good inventory of the copper sealing washers. Unfortunately the cost of shipping usually exceeds the cost of the washers. Any good facility that services Yanmar would have them as well as any diesel injection service facility. You may have to take one along to the injection man to assure you get the proper size.
Diesel Direct maintains a good inventory of the copper sealing washers. Unfortunately the cost of shipping usually exceeds the cost of the washers. Any good facility that services Yanmar would have them as well as any diesel injection service facility. You may have to take one along to the injection man to assure you get the proper size.
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