As you all probably know - we've had a week or so of some pretty brutal weather here in the mid west. Last week - I arrived at Grasshopper II to work on the topping lift - when I opened up the cabin I saw about 1/4" of water on the teak floor of the cabin :{. It was confined to this area - it did not get into the bilge. It came from the storm two days previous - the water came in from a loosely attached port in the head and from leakage at the top of the cabin opening boards. I cleaned up the water and throughly dried the floor and then installed some weather stripping on cabin hatch boards and added checking the galley and head port holes each time we leave the boat to our 'end of sailing' checklist. The problem is that a portion of the teak on the floor is bowing and in one area, is delaminating a bit. What steps should I take to repair this floor? Replace, patch, cover, etc.? Should I cover it in CETOL? Teak Oil? I appreciate any and all feedback. Regards, Tom Grass
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water too
Tom, Our H26 at Carlyle had over an inch of water on the cabin floor too. We could not determine how the water got in. Everything was tight and we keep a companionway cover on. Nothing coming down through the mast. After mopping up, we opened the access plate and under the sole was full of water. Everywhere else on the boat is bone dry. I'm hoping it is just rain water and nothing with the ballast tank. Anyway, might want to check under the floor too.
Tom, Our H26 at Carlyle had over an inch of water on the cabin floor too. We could not determine how the water got in. Everything was tight and we keep a companionway cover on. Nothing coming down through the mast. After mopping up, we opened the access plate and under the sole was full of water. Everywhere else on the boat is bone dry. I'm hoping it is just rain water and nothing with the ballast tank. Anyway, might want to check under the floor too.
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Ron M
Companion way hatch
A lot of people with the 26 have had water come via the forward section of the companionway hatch. It has to do with water getting around the stip of teak under the hatch. The strip is supposed to guide the water to the sides, so it can drain from the gutters. I know I had to recaulk mine and that did the trick. Try searching the archives. This has been discussed in some detail over the years so there's lots of good info there. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
A lot of people with the 26 have had water come via the forward section of the companionway hatch. It has to do with water getting around the stip of teak under the hatch. The strip is supposed to guide the water to the sides, so it can drain from the gutters. I know I had to recaulk mine and that did the trick. Try searching the archives. This has been discussed in some detail over the years so there's lots of good info there. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
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Tom Grass
Wet Floor - Question
Chris, Thanks for the response - question ... when you say 'access plate' are you referring to the plates under the cushion beneath the cockpit? Where the sump is? BTW - after you mopped up your floor - was there any damage to the teak floor? Thanks again. Tom Grass Grasshopper II p.s. Are you at West Access also?
Chris, Thanks for the response - question ... when you say 'access plate' are you referring to the plates under the cushion beneath the cockpit? Where the sump is? BTW - after you mopped up your floor - was there any damage to the teak floor? Thanks again. Tom Grass Grasshopper II p.s. Are you at West Access also?
access plate
The access plate (like a round deck plate) is on the starboard side of the cabin floor, next to the step. We have a '96 H26, but I think the access was removed in later models and water under the floor drains directly to the beige pump area (better than getting trapped in dead space). I had 4 or 5 coats of new varnish on the teak floor that helped curb water damage, but there is some puckering on a couple of the light wood strips. I plan to lightly sand and recoat with varnish. The teak is glued down into a fiberglass floor pan and I read it's difficult to pull up. "Festivity" is at CSA.
The access plate (like a round deck plate) is on the starboard side of the cabin floor, next to the step. We have a '96 H26, but I think the access was removed in later models and water under the floor drains directly to the beige pump area (better than getting trapped in dead space). I had 4 or 5 coats of new varnish on the teak floor that helped curb water damage, but there is some puckering on a couple of the light wood strips. I plan to lightly sand and recoat with varnish. The teak is glued down into a fiberglass floor pan and I read it's difficult to pull up. "Festivity" is at CSA.
R
Ron
Cover Totally Solves Leak Problem
Ron M. is correct is saying there is much discussion in the archives about the leaks in the hatch cover. Various fixes may work, but I finally gave up and had a cover made which covers the top hatch and entryway. It uses snaps which can easily be installed and solved the problem completely.
Ron M. is correct is saying there is much discussion in the archives about the leaks in the hatch cover. Various fixes may work, but I finally gave up and had a cover made which covers the top hatch and entryway. It uses snaps which can easily be installed and solved the problem completely.
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crazy dave
Only one post addresses your problem
You have a teak and holly floor that is glued down on top of the floor pan. The teak and holly sole is a laminate style ply. I am not sure you are talking about that seperating or the edges are seperating. You probably have gotten water between the ply and the floor. You need to walk on it and get the water out and drying with dry rags. Until I know more then I will be able to give you some pointers. Address your next heading as floor/crazy dave so I know to answer you
You have a teak and holly floor that is glued down on top of the floor pan. The teak and holly sole is a laminate style ply. I am not sure you are talking about that seperating or the edges are seperating. You probably have gotten water between the ply and the floor. You need to walk on it and get the water out and drying with dry rags. Until I know more then I will be able to give you some pointers. Address your next heading as floor/crazy dave so I know to answer you
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Tom Grass
floor/crazy dave
Crazy Dave - you're right on - when I stand on the floor - some water ooozes up. The teak plywood seems to be delaminating in places. Once I get the leak fixed (hopefully) I'd love your suggestions on how best to fix the floor. Thanks, Tom Grass
Crazy Dave - you're right on - when I stand on the floor - some water ooozes up. The teak plywood seems to be delaminating in places. Once I get the leak fixed (hopefully) I'd love your suggestions on how best to fix the floor. Thanks, Tom Grass
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holdfast
Check the screws that hold the teak strip on the plexiglass. I had the same problem until I calked the screws from the inside of the slider. No problems now and I live in the Midwest. Ken
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Stephen Ord
West Systems Answer
I too had this problem (posted it here but got 0 answers). I asked the people who make the West System epoxy and they have suggested that I drill some small holes in the plywood (3/16") and inject their epoxy. Then put sand bags on the floor for 24 hours. I have yet to try this as I am waiting for drier weather to help ensure that the floor is fully dry. The holes would be filled later with more epoxy. If anyone has tried this let me know the results. PS a modification of this repair is in the West System manual.
I too had this problem (posted it here but got 0 answers). I asked the people who make the West System epoxy and they have suggested that I drill some small holes in the plywood (3/16") and inject their epoxy. Then put sand bags on the floor for 24 hours. I have yet to try this as I am waiting for drier weather to help ensure that the floor is fully dry. The holes would be filled later with more epoxy. If anyone has tried this let me know the results. PS a modification of this repair is in the West System manual.
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