Wet core really a problem?

[danstanford]

I know it is a problem if left untreated, but if the structure is sound ( crunchy, not really spongy) and the water penetration is sealed up, is this likely to get much worse? I know that for future resale value there must be a real repair like re-coring, but I want to know if I can plan to sail her for a few years before ripping the decks off. Dan

 

[Ed Schenck]

Absolutely. I have told the story here of my original offer on an H37C. In many respects it was better than my boat. It had the bigger motor, full bimini and dodger, fin keel, etc. But it failed the moisture test. The yard estimated $6000 to repair in 1998. Someone else bought that boat and sailed it away. I heard once that she was still on the Great Lakes with the same wet decks.

The places on my boat where it could be a problem would be the staysail traveler and the handrails. Both are screwed into the coring and could be compromised if the core was rotten under those screws.

 

[capejt]

Not only that, but if you live in a colder climate, that water can freeze and expand, cracking the surrounding fiberglass.
Wet core is just NOT GOOD!!

 

[danstanford]

I do live in a cold climate and the wet areas of the cabin top are actually puffed up a little where the water has presumably frozen and expanded. Has anybody had any experience with what is likely the next step in the evolution of this issue? It seems to me that the core will still be wet and when it freezes again this year it will just get worse and eventually pop the deck open??? Dan

 

[DianaOfBurlington]

Drill small holes into the core from underneath and run a dehumidifier in the boat over the winter. Then fill with epoxy.

This is what I did (and have written about extensively in these posts) and what I advise motorboaters to do when they find the PO screwed the fishfinder transducer into the transom with silicone and now the whole transom (and motor mount) is rotten. Drain, dry, and refill with the right stuff.

Ed, I really hope those tracks and especially handrails are not working back and forth on your boat! Good luck with that one, mate!

 

[danstanford]

So how much of the structure does the roof area forward of the mast provide? This area seems strong to step on and the only indication of any problem is the "puffed up" area you can just feel as you run your hand along the area as it drops toward the deck. The area aroung the chainplates seems very sound and I can see no rust or rot in any area around the mast or chainplates, but I really don't want to see the mast come down because the deck has collapsed! It would be my intention to fix this over the next couple of years, but I want to save up some money and do it right when I do it including having the boat painted to make everything the same colour. Any thoughts?

Dan

 

[jpdmarinesurvey]

I doubt the mast will come down as the chainplates are secured below the deck level into FRP encapsulated knees.

 

[heart of gold]

My buddy down at the club found a bit of moisture in his Olson 40. Next thing you know, it was covered in tarps and walking by one day I heard his skill saw start up. Not for the faint of heart but he opened up the top skin quite extensively. After ripping out all of the wet balsa and drying it out thoroughly he epoxied in foam core replacement material then epoxied several layers of glass mat and cloth(alternating) faired it all smooth with filler and painted with "Kiwi non slip deck paint"(?) It looks just like new and very strong. If the balsa fails you lose structural strength as it does supply some rigidity to the deck. Cheers