Wax on wax off

Stu Jackson · Apr 17, 2014

Why not just do it right? Cutting corners doesn't usually work.

http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117266

arf145 · Apr 18, 2014

But if the boat is truly shiny-like maybe the PO just compounded or polished--then you don't have to polish. After all, every time you do, you lose a little gelcoat. If you like the look, wax will protect it.

Gunni · Apr 18, 2014

There are no free passes to a durable shine :naughty: You can paint it with some snake oil but if your gelcoat is oxidized it will not matter. Wax simply seals the shine. By the time you get to the wax the hull should look like it IS waxed.

Welcome to boat ownership!

Ian McGain · Apr 18, 2014

Do yourself a large favor in time and expense. Go online and read about PolyGlow and New Glass2. I use New Glass, and have for years. Last week my Admiral and myself removed last season's treatment, with the old dirt and grime, and applied a brand new set of light coats (6) in an afternoon to the hull. Looks great and lasts the season. hint not in the instructions if you go this way. Use a swifter with the long handle and wrap the head with a ShamWow type of pad. Better than the chamois I used to use. You do not have to go up and down the ladder with this method. (always do it with the boat up on the hard just before launch.

You pay your money and you take your choice.
Good Luck.
p.s. For years we used 3M heavy oxidation one-step with electric buffers and rags- I now ask myself why did we ever do that?

pps: I have just added a couple of pictures, as this is turning into a contest. Who can beat this with under four hours work-start to finish?

Stu Jackson · Apr 18, 2014

Do yourself a large favorand do a search on this froum for those products. There are some significant discussions with pros & cons that you should be aware of.

FastOlson · Apr 18, 2014

Stu Jackson said:
Do yourself a large favorand do a search on this froum for those products. There are some significant discussions with pros & cons that you should be aware of.

I agree. There are some articulate users/detractors on another forum I moderate.

Loren

caguy · Apr 18, 2014

ChangsinLattitudes said:
So just bought a '81 Catalina 30. Hull seems like its in good condition, no oxidation, shiny.
I was reading up on polishing & waxing.

Question: Do I NEED to polish first? Or can one go straight to waxing the hull?
If there is a true "one step" process, any products you'd reccomend?
I imagine no matter what I do, I should wash the hull first?

I don't race and this isn't a 2014 Jeneau I just bought so just looking to do whats required in order to not make things worse.

Thanks all.

ix:

mudtertel · Apr 18, 2014

Like "
Ian McGain " said. PolyGlow is the ticket.I bought my 1984 Hunter in 2008,off of Ebay. It was like chalk on a chalkboard.I scrubbed it down, then waxed it (three coats). I heard about PolyGlow,bought it online.I got the kit. I stripped it twice,then applied one coat. That's all I could use , because that's all I got.I had to reorder two more bottles of Polyglow.Washed the boat again. I put on three coats on the hull and four on the deck.Looked like a new boat.Now every year I wash ,strip,and put three coats on the deck. The hull I put on two coats of Marine wax. It might not be the right thing to do , but I'm happy

Joe · Apr 18, 2014

Users happily reporting they strip the polyglow off every year and re apply it ... I thought the stuff was supposed to protect the surface, no absorb the dirt and grime.

Brian S · Apr 18, 2014

To reiterate, and as mudtertel's experience illustrates, you must clean off oxidation and polish the gelcoat FIRST, before applying any wax. Removing oxidation, chalk, and fine scratches is what creates the shine. Removing the surface irregularities (and thus creating the shine) allows sunlight to reflect off the surface, and maintain the shine better. Chalk and fine scratches scatter the sunlight, accelerating the surface degradation. The wax doesn't create the shine, just protects the shine. If your wax purports to create shine, then it probably has silicone-based oils, and is just cheating. Polyglow and New Glass are different, in that they are an acrylic coating, much like the kind used for no-wax floors. Some people have used floor acrylic with inexpensive good results, but the selling point of Polyglow and New Glass is that they are formulated for exterior use and should not yellow. Interior acrylic formulations will very likely yellow with UV exposure.

Tim R. · Apr 18, 2014

I have used both methods. A few boats ago i used polyglo for 3 seasons. It worked well if you prepped, applied and maintained it properly. I also think it works better in northern latitudes. The last boat was painted with Imron and i would polish it out every year. The current boat is all gelcoat. I have finished buffing, polishing and waxin the cabin top and cockpit. Next week i will haul to do the topsides. Here is a link to the rest of the photos. http://tkronaboat.com/cabin-top-and-cockpit-polishing.html

Solstice · Apr 18, 2014

Tim R. said:
I have used both methods. A few boats ago i used polyglo for 3 seasons. It worked well if you prepped, applied and maintained it properly. I also think it works better in northern latitudes. The last boat was painted with Imron and i would polish it out every year. The current boat is all gelcoat. I have finished buffing, polishing and waxin the cabin top and cockpit. Next week i will haul to do the topsides. Here is a link to the rest of the photos. http://tkronaboat.com/cabin-top-and-cockpit-polishing.html

Tim,
The boat looks fantastic! Just curious with why you went with the Collonite liquid vs the paste. I experimented with the liquid a few years ago in the cockpit and was disappointed that it just didn't have the staying power as the paste...

Tim R. · Apr 18, 2014

Solstice said:
Tim, The boat looks fantastic! Just curious with why you went with the Collonite liquid vs the paste. I experimented with the liquid a few years ago in the cockpit and was disappointed that it just didn't have the staying power as the paste...

Thanks. Actually I am experimenting with it this year. I usually prefer the paste. I am prepared to use the paste wax if the liquid wax does not hold up. The liquid wax is much easier to apply. Another point is that Polyglo works ok for topsides but is not easy the apply properly on the cabin top or cockpit.

Solstice · Apr 19, 2014

Tim R. said:
Thanks. Actually I am experimenting with it this year. I usually prefer the paste. I am prepared to use the paste wax if the liquid wax does not hold up. The liquid wax is much easier to apply. Another point is that Polyglo works ok for topsides but is not easy the apply properly on the cabin top or cockpit.

That's why I experimented with the liquid as well. Wasn't willing to try it on the hull, but thought the deck would be a good test. I guess after 20 years of using the paste, I don't find it any more difficult to apply anymore. It's also interesting that Collonite changed the application instructions-they now recommend letting it haze vs on/off. This helps to see where you applied.
Would love to hear your post Mortem on the liquid though...

Gunni · Apr 19, 2014

This is my hull BEFORE waxing. That is blue gelcoat compounded and polished the MaineSail way. If you do this, and use a quality wax (Collinite) it gets easier every year.

Scott T-Bird · Apr 19, 2014

I'm hesitant to go the polyglot route because polishing and waxing has been successful for me. I use the Makita with 3m compounding pads and polishing pads. I skipped last year totally, so I went back to starting with compound but instead of 3m products I used Mequiars ultra cut compound and swirl remover 2 to polish. This year is the best my topsides have looked ever so I am very happy with these products for sure. I also used Mequiars hi tech yellow wax and it went on very well.

Tim, do you actually use the Makita on all those irregular surfaces in the cockpit and coach roof or do you apply by hand? I've found that it is just too hard to use it (much smaller surfaces in my boat) so I give up and try by hand which doesn't give the best results. Doing the deck and cockpit really wears me out with all the contortions I have to go thru to apply to surfaces.

Ashley · Apr 19, 2014

Stu Jackson said:
Why not just do it right? Cutting corners doesn't usually work.

http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117266

I followed this link last year when I waxed my boat. Sorry for the crappy phone pic but you get the idea.

Tim R. · Apr 19, 2014

Scott T-Bird said:
I'm hesitant to go the polyglot route because polishing and waxing has been successful for me. I use the Makita with 3m compounding pads and polishing pads. I skipped last year totally, so I went back to starting with compound but instead of 3m products I used Mequiars ultra cut compound and swirl remover 2 to polish. This year is the best my topsides have looked ever so I am very happy with these products for sure. I also used Mequiars hi tech yellow wax and it went on very well. Tim, do you actually use the Makita on all those irregular surfaces in the cockpit and coach roof or do you apply by hand? I've found that it is just too hard to use it (much smaller surfaces in my boat) so I give up and try by hand which doesn't give the best results. Doing the deck and cockpit really wears me out with all the contortions I have to go thru to apply to surfaces.

Yes, Scott, that was all done with the Makita. I used a 9 inch pad. I have gotten pretty good at getting into tight spaces using the edge of the pad. You can now get 6 inch pads from Presta.

The only places I could not get to are the dorade boxes because of the guards. I will do them as best I can by hand.

Wax on wax off

.

.

.

.

.

.

Attachments

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Attachments

.

.

.