Water Water Everywhere

[MLampner]

Well for those who followed the water in the engine pan and the bilge saga, yet another tale of whoa, but at least no mysteries this time. My depth sounder and then my knot meter, both mysteriously stopped working, during the run down the bay the day before we finally found the source of all the water. Today got the covers off the back of the instruments and found water.

No mystery as to where its coming from I could see daylight in one case and pouring a little water onto cabin top quickly showed me how it could happen. Given we have had 3 days with better than inch an hour downpours they are soaked. I know most DC electronics if powered on when wet don't survive, any hope these may dry out?

Assuming the worst case, and I need to replace them, I know Standard Horizon is out of the instrument business but does anyone make a plug compatible replacement. Given the gaskets are shot even if they survive not sure I can ever get them weather tight again in any case.

I know Moor makes head ends that will fit the openings but I would prefer not to lose more time to a pull to replace transducers and through hulls given I have already lost a lot of the season.I don't know but have asked Moor if they will be able to read the old senders or barring that will fit the through hulls.

Jorge, does the marine Junk Yard by you have any gauge heads from Standard Horizon? Speaking of which does anyone know how you find the model number on these gauges, I am guessing its on the back and when I get back on board tomorrow will look but some expert advise on where to look would be appreciated.

As always appreciate the help and thoughts.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Maybe you could get back on the water with a cheap thru-the-hull fishfinder. You definitely need something for depth. Use the GPS for SOG and wait for off-season to tackle what is going to be a long process.

My old Signet instruments still work up there on the bulkhead next to the companionway. But long ago I sprung for a Nexus system(now ComNav) at the helm. You might want to consider something like that over the long winter.

 

[MLampner]

As you say depth is the key, half the time run with the wheel out of the water for the speed anyway. May opt for a through the hull but since the transponder is functional would like to replace the head end if possible we'll see.

 

[MLampner]

Should note the lack of the depth finder won't keep me off the water completely but it does restrict me to familiar water and areas on the charts where depth is no issue. Given how much bay there is to explore and how much of it is shallow its a real limitation. Even a sailor as green as I quickly learns charts are only as good as when they were last surveyed. Unfortunately with a soft bottom things shift often in the Chesapeake. I guess the up side is it is soft and usually groundings don't require a tow if your patient. So my boat has only been aground once and I wasn't even aboard, my more experienced teacher and long time friend had that "pleasure".

 

[Nelsonhow]

Two years ago in April after 30+ years the Data Marine Depth Finder and Knot meters on my H-30 gave up the ghost... With little in the sailing kitty and a season ahead of me I purchased a Gamin 440S GPS unit for about $400. The unit came with a in hull depth transducer and collar. There was a relatively flat spot of the hull under one of the cabinets (a Little behind and to the port of the leading edge of the keel) and with some silicone I glued the transducer collar to the hull. Let it dry for a day and then I filled the transducer collar with some of that pink potable antifreeze and clipped the transducer to the collar and I was in business. At the end of the season I banged the collar and it shifted and the antifreeze leaked out. It was a simple matter to clean off the area with a little cleaner and a rag and to reglue the collar in place. This time I filled the collar with , no kidding, HAIR GEL. It worked great and won't leak out.........It's bee in 2 seasons and continues to work great... The Gamin has a fish finder, knot out meter, GPS and lots of other features........ Some day I'm going to replace or fix the data marine units but for now you'll have look for me because ......I'VE GONE SAILING".............

 

[rardiH36]

Before you give up on these classic units ...

Hello Mlampner:

Presume you have the units similar to my picture below? (The peeling faceplate decal subsequently on this unit has been removed and I simply painted the inside of the glass with black paint -- looks fine.)

Just to be clear, the water has gotten into the housings right behind the face-plates?

If so, how are you with a soldering iron? I ask because before totally writing off your original DataMarine stuff, remelting every solder contact on the circuit boards and elsewhere with a low watt sharp point soldering iron sometimes will correct a bad contact or two and get electronic gear working again. I was able to do this a couple of years ago with either my knotmeter or depth unit (don't remember which). Of course your water intrusion might have shorted out and damaged or permanently opened up something. But the effort is worth a try and costs virtually nothing. What's the downside? Also many years ago, some of the fancy electronic systems on a 1989 Jaguar I owned starting acting up. I read about the remelting trick, located the circuit boards for the problem systems, and remelted the solder connects. The problems went away. Another thing to do is disconnect/reconnect the wiring harnesses from their male/female connectors. This might restore electrical connectivity, if some corrosion has taken place.

Since the Data Marine circuit boards are 1970's-early 1980's design, they are HUGE compared to modern day ones. There is space enough between solder point to re-solder if careful. By disconnecting the wiring harness plugs and removing the switches that are mounted through glass face plates, the circuit boards can be removed from the housings, without removing the entire unit from the bulkhead.

Main tips for soldering:
- Make sure that solder does not flow between the joints.
- Remove the soldering iron as soon as you see the solder melt. Do not overheat!
- Unless your eyes for close-up work are still very young, good lighting and reading glasses are a must.
- Disconnect from the 12v -- obviously.
- If a joint looks dry, then just add a touch of new solder.

Another thing to try is to remove the actual display LCD's from their mountings on the circuit board. Carefully clean the contacts and put back in. Take note of the orientation when dismantling/reassembling.

If you give all this a try, report back the result!

 

[MLampner]

Certainly worth a try. Mine are Standard Horizons but assume roughly the same age and size.

Used to be fairly handy with a soldering iron till everything became disposable. Will give it a try absolutely nothing to lose.

 

[Jim Legere]

Datamarine instruments

My 1983 H37C has the original Datamarine Corinthian instruments. I have kept them in good repair with the help of these guys: http://www.dmimarine.com/
They are some of the original folks from Datamarine before the brand was sold out to a company in California. Good folks to deal with - I recomend them.