Water Tank

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Don

I,ve recently purchase a hunter27, 1978 Sailboat. Reading some of the archives and recent posts on water tank cleaning, has motivated me to inspect my water tank. Well in doing this I have come up with a few questions of my own questions. In the bathroom above the sink to the left I've notice a panel with 5 small lights that run vertical. Now is this the tank water guage, and when the lights are on doe's it mean empty or full?? I've pulled the long tubular unit out of the top of the tank and notice that the thin wire that runs around and down the tubular unit is broken about half way down. And I've notice that some of the indicator lights are not working. "As you can probably tell I'm new to owning a sailboat". Also, reading some other comments on cleaning or draining the water tank, alot of the comments on draining are to use the water pump. Well, I don't believe I have a water pump. both sinks facets are hand pump type. Leading to the next question on draining the tank. Do I just unhook the lowest line running from the tank and let it run into the bilge. I would appreciate any comments or advice.
 
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Mike Basham

"Custom" Gauge

Hi Don, welcome to the forum! I've got a 1979 27', and it's a great boat. Your going to love it. I think you may have a customer gauge on your boat. Mine didn't have anything other than a plug on the top. You can definitely live without a gauge; you can kinda keep up with how much water you use, especially with hand pumps only. I did put a pump on ours, and replaced the faucet in the galley with a regular water faucet. It's great, but it does use more water. There are several options for draining your tank. It might be easiest to take the water feed hose lose from under the bathroom faucet and hook up one of those pumps that connects to an electric drill. You could also hook it up somehow to one of those big hand pumps you use for emergencies. I would pump the water into a bucket, or run a hose out the bathroom window. Use it to wash the outside of your boat! Also, as far as cleaning your tank, I found some really good articles on websites for RVs. Most approaches involve baking soda and lots of rinsing. Hope this helps! Hope you enjoy your boat!
 
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Don

Thanks alot Mike

Thanks alot Mike for responding to my post. So far I really like my H27 also. That sounds like a good idea, attaching a small in line pump to drain the tank. I will want to flush it a number of times, so using a pump will help expedite the process. Thanks again for taking the time to post your comments and advice.
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

Recommissioning/sanitizing fresh water system

Fresh water system problems--foul odor or taste--are typically caused by allowing water to stagnate in the system. Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion (go sailing and tack a lot). 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement. The best time to do this is in the spring...it not only sanitizes the system, but gets rid of the taste and smell of antifreeze. To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only start to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each time, always let the dock water run for at least 15 minutes first...the same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply line and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want to transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line to your boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is coming straight from the water main.
 
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