Water tank fix (part 2)

[richard shelby]

Here's an update on the water tanks. I finally got around to the starboard tank. You may recall from last week, the port tank was cut open and a Plastimo bladder was installed (see photo forum). The stbd tank has only one baffle, so I decided to cut inspection ports and coat the inside with epoxy. The short of it is that this is a MUCH EASIER option than cutting out the baffles. In retrospect, This would have also woked on the port tank, but with 2 baffles, that's 3 inspection ports which must be cut, in order to get to all the tank innards for coating. I used regular clear epoxy resin from the building supply, about a pint to coat the tank inside using a throw-away small paint roller and 1" brush. A pigmented epoxy might be better, so you can see where the stuff is being applied. I cut two square 8x10 holes and covered with 1/4" polyethylene boards (kitchen cutting boards) bedded in silicone, screwed down with stainless sheet metal screws. So far, so good...no leaks. The plastimo bladder is dripping somewhat from the fittings, but a few more ft-lbs of torque and some silicone should fix that. any questions: email me at shelbri@vetmed.auburn.edu......I'm ready to go sailing

 

[Ed Schenck]

Thanks Richard,

that is good info. So now I will cut the access ports AND load up with epoxy before I leave for the coast. I know it's going to happen eventually.

 

[Jim Legere]

Good to know...

Good to know that the coating fix is the easiest - we will all have to deal with the tank issue sooner or later. How did you prepare the aluminum prior to coating with epoxy? I have always heard that getting epoxy to bond to aluminum rquires some sort of etching primer. Epoxy is a good choice for potable water - once cured its basically food grade.

 

[Gene Gruender]

use scotchbrite

West recommended to me that you use a rubber glove and a scotchbrite pad once the epoxy is spread but still wet. That will serve as the etching. Anything removed will be suspended in the epoxy.