Wanting to be able to use the water tank on my 35.5, I cut into the line after the pump and inserted a filter and an accumulator tank. The filter is a Nature Pure Basic Unit which has the Ultrafine filter which is 0.1 micron. The accumulator is a Shurflo #181-203 which gives me more volume for a short period of time after turning on the water. Now all of the water in the boat is filtered before use. The picture shows the filter and the line that it is cut into. The accumulator is also visable in the background.
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Filters are only in addition to, not a substitute
for system maintenance. They don't kill the molds, fungi and bacteria that create "funky" water, they only mask the smells/taste created by them. Filters are a fine add-on if you don't like the taste/smell of the water that comes out of faucets on land, but it's still necessary to recommission the system at least annually. Basic directions for recommissioning follow...complete instructions for maximizing the benefits of recommissioning are in my book (link below). Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded. 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. This method also gets rid of the taste/smell of antifreeze.
for system maintenance. They don't kill the molds, fungi and bacteria that create "funky" water, they only mask the smells/taste created by them. Filters are a fine add-on if you don't like the taste/smell of the water that comes out of faucets on land, but it's still necessary to recommission the system at least annually. Basic directions for recommissioning follow...complete instructions for maximizing the benefits of recommissioning are in my book (link below). Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded. 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. This method also gets rid of the taste/smell of antifreeze.
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Jim Rushing
Yes Peggie, but
this system is in operation 365 days of the year. I don't shut it down in the winter, just fill the tank full before the water is shut off in late November. I will have used about half of the tank by the time it is turned back on in March. Made the mistake once of putting the pink stuff in and thought I would never get it all out. Hunter plumbed the tank such that it leaves about 4 inches of water in the bottom.
this system is in operation 365 days of the year. I don't shut it down in the winter, just fill the tank full before the water is shut off in late November. I will have used about half of the tank by the time it is turned back on in March. Made the mistake once of putting the pink stuff in and thought I would never get it all out. Hunter plumbed the tank such that it leaves about 4 inches of water in the bottom.
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
I think you mean the boat is used year round
You're not on the boat 365 days a year, which means that--especially during the hot summer months--those "critters" that thrive in damp dark places and cause 90% of foul water problems have plenty of opportunity to grow in the boat's fresh water plumbing. Filters don't prevent it, only mask their presence. The more often you have to change or clean the filters, the more mold, fungi etc there is in the plumbing. I also used my boat year round, never winterized either, btw. Recommissioned my fresh water system every spring.
You're not on the boat 365 days a year, which means that--especially during the hot summer months--those "critters" that thrive in damp dark places and cause 90% of foul water problems have plenty of opportunity to grow in the boat's fresh water plumbing. Filters don't prevent it, only mask their presence. The more often you have to change or clean the filters, the more mold, fungi etc there is in the plumbing. I also used my boat year round, never winterized either, btw. Recommissioned my fresh water system every spring.
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Bob Schmit
Pipe fittings?
The fittings on my 30T('92) are called 'quest' or something like that and look similar to what you used in the photo. Could you tell me what kind of tubing you are using and the style fittings? Some of it looks like pex tubing and some looks like reinforced vinyl. I am interested because I would like to add a small pressure tank like you did and possibly a cockpit shower in the future. Thanks
The fittings on my 30T('92) are called 'quest' or something like that and look similar to what you used in the photo. Could you tell me what kind of tubing you are using and the style fittings? Some of it looks like pex tubing and some looks like reinforced vinyl. I am interested because I would like to add a small pressure tank like you did and possibly a cockpit shower in the future. Thanks
Home Depot or Lowe's
Bob: I think you will find the fittings at Home Depot or Lowe's. They also sell the stuff at RV dealers. It is actually a good system for RV's and such.
Bob: I think you will find the fittings at Home Depot or Lowe's. They also sell the stuff at RV dealers. It is actually a good system for RV's and such.
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