Water out but not in

Status
Not open for further replies.
Dec 22, 2012
102
Islander 30 Bahama Keyport
I recently took over a boat that had been on the hard for over a year. When I tested the toilet, it seemed to work fine--I was to pump water in and then out. However, once underway for a three-day sail, it stopped pumping in water, although it was fine flushing the water out of the toilet. I have a replacement joker valve that I was planning to install as a precaution but now I'm wondering if I should be getting some other part as well. I'd rather just attack the toilet situation once! It's a vintage Groco. The boat was built in 1983.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,049
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
In most cases like you report, it is the valve inside the pump assembly that switches from wet bowl to dry bowl that is either not moving from one position to the other or has failed. The joker valve had nothing to do with the problem you describe.

The Groco, IMHO, was the worst manual head ever made.

I recommend you buy a new head. The Raritan PHII or PHC (a smaller version, same pump) is the best made. If you are $$ challenged, go with a Jabsco Twist & Lock which some find acceptable.

Here's what a replacement entails (two hours work :))

Head Replacement 101 - Installation of PHII Head http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3797.0.html
 
Dec 22, 2012
102
Islander 30 Bahama Keyport
Thanks for the honest assessment. I plan on replacing it with an electric toilet but might not be able to do so this season. In the meantime, I need a working head. I'll look into replacement pump parts.

In most cases like you report, it is the valve inside the pump assembly that switches from wet bowl to dry bowl that is either not moving from one position to the other or has failed. The joker valve had nothing to do with the problem you describe.

The Groco, IMHO, was the worst manual head ever made.

I recommend you buy a new head. The Raritan PHII or PHC (a smaller version, same pump) is the best made. If you are $$ challenged, go with a Jabsco Twist & Lock which some find acceptable.

Here's what a replacement entails (two hours work :))

Head Replacement 101 - Installation of PHII Head http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3797.0.html
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,095
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
I've had that problem when things from the seawater fouled the valves too. Since this was working before, I'd first suspect some stuff in the valve not letting it go to the "wet" setting even though the switch is in the correct position.. Good idea to have a repair kit on the boat at all times. Stu's post is right on .
 

Erieau

.
Apr 3, 2009
209
Oday 25 Erieau
I have a similar vintage Groco as the OP. I too needed to replace the valve/flappy thing that switches wet/dry. Defender sells the "Master Service Kit" which comes with all gaskets and valves. It wasn't too bad a job, but the joker valve barely lasts a season.
 
Dec 22, 2012
102
Islander 30 Bahama Keyport
Well, it seems like fate has chosen to weigh in. I bought a repair kit and replaced the various gaskets and in the process of reassembling managed to crack one of the three bolt holes at the base of the pump. I called Groco and was told that a replacement would cost over $250! Reverse sour grapes--I was planning on eventually replacing the toilet with an electric one, so Groco helped move up the timetable! Needless to say, it won't be a Groco model….
 
Status
Not open for further replies.