Hello, We just bought a Hunter 40 '86. We previously had an '87 31ft and loved it. The 40 is very good shape but was never really sailed hard. (The roller-furled Foresail is barely used!) We experience heavy winds here in the Columbia River Gorge and are often out in 20-30 knots of wind, if not more: lots of heeling! We were out last night in lots of wind and noticed water pouring in from the sides that we are pretty sure is from the toerails. Anyone out there ever had to reset the toe rails and have some advice? Should we just tighten the bolts or remove and reseed the toerails right away? What silicone to use? Any other known Hunter 40 leaks?? I have checked some of the old posts but would like some new input. Thanks so much!
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Try tightening
TRy tightening all of the rail bolts. I am aware of one 40, later model, that had to have its entire deck refastened but I am sure that is not the norm. You would be suprised how loose some of these bolts can be. Good luck
TRy tightening all of the rail bolts. I am aware of one 40, later model, that had to have its entire deck refastened but I am sure that is not the norm. You would be suprised how loose some of these bolts can be. Good luck
No to silicone...
After 15 years, the toe rails, rail stanchions, cleats etc are certain to need rebedding by now. Silcone doesn't seal, it only fills space...it also dries out, cracks, crumbles and falls out. Use a proper bedding compound, not silicone...and definitely not 5200. It may be permanent, but that doesn't mean it can't leak. And if you ever have to replace a section of toe rail or a stanchion--or even repair a leak--you'll play hell getting it off.
After 15 years, the toe rails, rail stanchions, cleats etc are certain to need rebedding by now. Silcone doesn't seal, it only fills space...it also dries out, cracks, crumbles and falls out. Use a proper bedding compound, not silicone...and definitely not 5200. It may be permanent, but that doesn't mean it can't leak. And if you ever have to replace a section of toe rail or a stanchion--or even repair a leak--you'll play hell getting it off.
May be a very big project.
Heidi & Mark: You did not mention where you THINK are taking on water! Removing the toe rail may be a much bigger project than you want to undertake (especially during the sailing season). I would suggest that you get a LARGE phillips head screw driver with a end-wrench fitting near the handle. Then get a torque wrench. Have one person on the deck HOLD the screw in place, have the person on the dock with the torque wrench tighten the nut. The big advantage you have with your boat (like your H'31) is the fact that you have an outboard flange. You may also want to check this flange for any obvious cracks on the underside. I do not have a torque setting for this but would think that 10-15 ftlbs would be in order. Some other places to check that will not be as big a chore. The track for the sheet blocks. This track bolts thru the deck. You can remove the track and then rebed it with Life Caulk or 4200 (I prefer Life Caulk). Once again when you reseat these bolts be sure that you do NOT turn the bolt but turn the nut. The next place to check would be the chain plate. This may be a task for a pro. You may want to check the archives and see if there is anything in there on rebedding the chain plates on these. I believe that they are the same on most of the boats built during the same era (1983-1988).
Heidi & Mark: You did not mention where you THINK are taking on water! Removing the toe rail may be a much bigger project than you want to undertake (especially during the sailing season). I would suggest that you get a LARGE phillips head screw driver with a end-wrench fitting near the handle. Then get a torque wrench. Have one person on the deck HOLD the screw in place, have the person on the dock with the torque wrench tighten the nut. The big advantage you have with your boat (like your H'31) is the fact that you have an outboard flange. You may also want to check this flange for any obvious cracks on the underside. I do not have a torque setting for this but would think that 10-15 ftlbs would be in order. Some other places to check that will not be as big a chore. The track for the sheet blocks. This track bolts thru the deck. You can remove the track and then rebed it with Life Caulk or 4200 (I prefer Life Caulk). Once again when you reseat these bolts be sure that you do NOT turn the bolt but turn the nut. The next place to check would be the chain plate. This may be a task for a pro. You may want to check the archives and see if there is anything in there on rebedding the chain plates on these. I believe that they are the same on most of the boats built during the same era (1983-1988).
Chain Locker?
Also, if there is water entering into the forward end of the V-berth it could be coming in via the chain locker. The chain locker is a fiberglass "pan" that is droped in before the deck/coach roof is put on and typically it is not sealed around the top where it meets the underside of the deck/coach roof. Open the chain locker lid and look around underneath to see if it is sealed. A second spot where water can enter is where the running light wires travel over the chain locker pan, especially if there is a poor drip loop, and the water heads aft. Water can then follow the wires along the underside of the coach roof. Silicone sealant: Hunter (and Bayliner) have used Dow 795 for many years (at least since '88) which is a silicone sealant so you may be too late. Recommend giving Hunter Customer Service a call (or E-mail) and as them what sealant they used back then. Once silicone has been used you have to stick with it unless you do a lot of work to prep the surface for non-silicone stuff. I've had very good experience with Dow sealant although I use the newer 995 (vice 795). The 795 and 995 does not "glue" the parts together like 5200 does and stays relatively flexible and plyable for easy removal later.
Also, if there is water entering into the forward end of the V-berth it could be coming in via the chain locker. The chain locker is a fiberglass "pan" that is droped in before the deck/coach roof is put on and typically it is not sealed around the top where it meets the underside of the deck/coach roof. Open the chain locker lid and look around underneath to see if it is sealed. A second spot where water can enter is where the running light wires travel over the chain locker pan, especially if there is a poor drip loop, and the water heads aft. Water can then follow the wires along the underside of the coach roof. Silicone sealant: Hunter (and Bayliner) have used Dow 795 for many years (at least since '88) which is a silicone sealant so you may be too late. Recommend giving Hunter Customer Service a call (or E-mail) and as them what sealant they used back then. Once silicone has been used you have to stick with it unless you do a lot of work to prep the surface for non-silicone stuff. I've had very good experience with Dow sealant although I use the newer 995 (vice 795). The 795 and 995 does not "glue" the parts together like 5200 does and stays relatively flexible and plyable for easy removal later.
No to Silicones.... WHY?
Peggie: I contine to hear you say NO, NO, NO when a silicone sealant/caulking product is concerned. There are many different silicone products on the market that are very good sealants. They sell silicone to seal fish tanks, seal windows etc. What is the basis that you do NOT recommend Silicones? Exactly what product are you referring to?
Peggie: I contine to hear you say NO, NO, NO when a silicone sealant/caulking product is concerned. There are many different silicone products on the market that are very good sealants. They sell silicone to seal fish tanks, seal windows etc. What is the basis that you do NOT recommend Silicones? Exactly what product are you referring to?
Sealing and bedding are different applications
Sealants aren't appropriate for every job. In fact, not all sealants are even appropriate for every sealing application. Rail stanchions, cleats etc should be bedded. Read this: http://www.bosunsupply.com/Sealants.cfm
Sealants aren't appropriate for every job. In fact, not all sealants are even appropriate for every sealing application. Rail stanchions, cleats etc should be bedded. Read this: http://www.bosunsupply.com/Sealants.cfm
Bedding and Sealant
Steve, Peggie is correct. You might also want to check with the BoatU.S. guides. Polyurethane is recommended for hull to deck joints which would include the toe rail on the H40.
Steve, Peggie is correct. You might also want to check with the BoatU.S. guides. Polyurethane is recommended for hull to deck joints which would include the toe rail on the H40.
Pretty good chart here (link below)
Shows which types of sealants/compounds are right and wrong for different applications, and why.
Shows which types of sealants/compounds are right and wrong for different applications, and why.
Thanks
Thanks for all the replies! In response to how we are so sure where the water may be coming in (is one EVER sure?) we are almost 100% sure that the water is coming in via the toe rails as it only happens when we are digging in the rails while in heavy winds. The front of the boat is bone dry... we checked all over. We are going to start with tightening the rail bolts as well as the track for the jib sheets. I am really impressed with the level of knowledge of our fellow Hunter owners!!
Thanks for all the replies! In response to how we are so sure where the water may be coming in (is one EVER sure?) we are almost 100% sure that the water is coming in via the toe rails as it only happens when we are digging in the rails while in heavy winds. The front of the boat is bone dry... we checked all over. We are going to start with tightening the rail bolts as well as the track for the jib sheets. I am really impressed with the level of knowledge of our fellow Hunter owners!!
New Input
Thanks for checking the archives first - so many people don't which fills the forum up with repeat stuff. With regard to "new input", you definitely got some. Peggie is at it again digging up some good stuff. Think we all learned something here. And the really good part - it's all free! Getting ready to get out of here - got to attend the on-the-water philharmonic orchestra concert in Victoria BC August 4th (see link below). They only allow sailboats in front of the Empress Hotel because the "other kind" blocks the view!
Thanks for checking the archives first - so many people don't which fills the forum up with repeat stuff. With regard to "new input", you definitely got some. Peggie is at it again digging up some good stuff. Think we all learned something here. And the really good part - it's all free! Getting ready to get out of here - got to attend the on-the-water philharmonic orchestra concert in Victoria BC August 4th (see link below). They only allow sailboats in front of the Empress Hotel because the "other kind" blocks the view!
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