We have a 1999 Hunter 260. We currently are sailing on Lake Michigan. When sailing in high winds and waves (with considerable heeling) we're getting water in the bilge and in the bottom of the seatees. I just checked -my valve to my water ballast tank was not tightly closed. I'm thinking that having the valve partially open allowed the ballast tank to overflow into the bilge. Thoughts and opinions? BTW the valve IS tightly closed now. Tom Grass
Water in the bilge
- Thread starter tgrass462
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tgrass,
Don't think that would cause it. Not having the plug in the top of the ballast tank (under the step) would. In fact, I'd think if the fill valve was not tight, you might cause some vacuum, or lose some ballast (not a good thing OBTW), but the question is how does the water get from the tank to the bilge.
I've been fighting the same issue for the past six years with my 1998 260. Still can't figure it out. I've got the boat in the backyard right now, and I plan on over pressurizing the cabin and see where I might have a leak. How do you over pressurize, you ask? Plug up those areas where you now there's gaps (like the battery cable going to the motor), then rig a way to put the exhaust of your shop vac in the companionway and turn it on. Then take a soapy solution and go over the entire boat until you see bubbles where they ought not be.
On the "To Do" list....
Don't think that would cause it. Not having the plug in the top of the ballast tank (under the step) would. In fact, I'd think if the fill valve was not tight, you might cause some vacuum, or lose some ballast (not a good thing OBTW), but the question is how does the water get from the tank to the bilge.
I've been fighting the same issue for the past six years with my 1998 260. Still can't figure it out. I've got the boat in the backyard right now, and I plan on over pressurizing the cabin and see where I might have a leak. How do you over pressurize, you ask? Plug up those areas where you now there's gaps (like the battery cable going to the motor), then rig a way to put the exhaust of your shop vac in the companionway and turn it on. Then take a soapy solution and go over the entire boat until you see bubbles where they ought not be.
On the "To Do" list....
Ok gents, let me speak up where to look.
1. Look at large bolt on top of plate holding the center board bracket in place. If any water coming from around the bolt, tighten it and apply some caulk around the bolt head. In addition make sure the plate which the compression posts sits on is not leaking.
2. On the compression post in the early years of the 260 and the 26 (all Years), you might see a small hole about two to three inches above the compression post plate on the compression post. There is another one at the same height on the other side and not readibly seen. They are threaded and generally will take a #10 bolt. Take a short bolt and insert with caulk of course.
3. Any thru hulls leaking? If so, you know what to do is to recaulk.
4. Rudder gudeons on the back of the boat or the lower one. Look thru the rear berth door and see if water coming from there. If so, remove the bolts, clean caulk and of course again recaulk.
5. Check the gasket on the wing bolt to see if still in place that opens and closes the water ballast tank.
6. check the drain bail plug to see if loose.
7. Now for the last and the worst but easy to fix. Look at the hull to deck joint on the transom. Get a few buddies on the back of the boat of course guzzling beer and look at that seam from the rear berth doors and of course have flashlight in hand. Any seepage of water seen, remove boat from water. Then take the inner rub rail molding off and you will see the screws. Remove the screws and take a look. Generally screw hole caulk or the hull to deck seam cracked. As for the cracked seam, it is only marine putty and take a dremel and clean it out to the fiberglass on both sides and reinstall two part epoxy. I like WATERTITE as it cures overnight and the best stuff on the market. Let dry and sand. Apply gel coat if you desire. As for the screws, again recaulk and very liberally as you can always clean up suggesting alcohol and not the kind that you would sip on but the stuff from under the medicine case.
This is pretty much where to look for leaks gents. Any other advice send me an email.
crazy dave condon
1. Look at large bolt on top of plate holding the center board bracket in place. If any water coming from around the bolt, tighten it and apply some caulk around the bolt head. In addition make sure the plate which the compression posts sits on is not leaking.
2. On the compression post in the early years of the 260 and the 26 (all Years), you might see a small hole about two to three inches above the compression post plate on the compression post. There is another one at the same height on the other side and not readibly seen. They are threaded and generally will take a #10 bolt. Take a short bolt and insert with caulk of course.
3. Any thru hulls leaking? If so, you know what to do is to recaulk.
4. Rudder gudeons on the back of the boat or the lower one. Look thru the rear berth door and see if water coming from there. If so, remove the bolts, clean caulk and of course again recaulk.
5. Check the gasket on the wing bolt to see if still in place that opens and closes the water ballast tank.
6. check the drain bail plug to see if loose.
7. Now for the last and the worst but easy to fix. Look at the hull to deck joint on the transom. Get a few buddies on the back of the boat of course guzzling beer and look at that seam from the rear berth doors and of course have flashlight in hand. Any seepage of water seen, remove boat from water. Then take the inner rub rail molding off and you will see the screws. Remove the screws and take a look. Generally screw hole caulk or the hull to deck seam cracked. As for the cracked seam, it is only marine putty and take a dremel and clean it out to the fiberglass on both sides and reinstall two part epoxy. I like WATERTITE as it cures overnight and the best stuff on the market. Let dry and sand. Apply gel coat if you desire. As for the screws, again recaulk and very liberally as you can always clean up suggesting alcohol and not the kind that you would sip on but the stuff from under the medicine case.
This is pretty much where to look for leaks gents. Any other advice send me an email.
crazy dave condon
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