I am replacing my Seaward water heater with a new one and would like to see comments on the ones that are out on the market. I have thought about going back with a Seaward but have also noticed newer Kuuma ones available on the market now. I've also noticed that a stainless steel tank is listed as a benefit on many of the models. This must account for the price difference between one with a stainless steel tank as opposed to one with a galvanized tank. I lean toward putting a Seaward stainless steel tank bank in but would like to get another's opinion.
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Save your money, buy galvanized
I just replaced my Seaward 6 gallon rectangular tank and I bought the galvanized from Defender for $200. I think the stainless was at least $75 more.
The heater is in a dry location with no windows. Why would you want the one with the stainless steel enclosure? The actual tank inside is identical in both models.
Maybe you could polish the stainless steel one and high-light it on your boat tours ?
Just kidding.......
I just replaced my Seaward 6 gallon rectangular tank and I bought the galvanized from Defender for $200. I think the stainless was at least $75 more.
The heater is in a dry location with no windows. Why would you want the one with the stainless steel enclosure? The actual tank inside is identical in both models.
Maybe you could polish the stainless steel one and high-light it on your boat tours ?
Just kidding.......
Second Rich
I brought a "Stainless Steel" replacement some time ago and when it went out, did an autopsy. I was dismayed to find it was the same inside! Needless to say, the replacement was the galvanized one. The upside is that I now have some nice SS sheet for projects. Next time, tho, I'll probably replace it with one of the Isotherm 'Slim' models (but at 2+X the cost...) RD
I brought a "Stainless Steel" replacement some time ago and when it went out, did an autopsy. I was dismayed to find it was the same inside! Needless to say, the replacement was the galvanized one. The upside is that I now have some nice SS sheet for projects. Next time, tho, I'll probably replace it with one of the Isotherm 'Slim' models (but at 2+X the cost...) RD
Wayne, please don't take any offense....
I was just joking and poking a bit of fun at the widespread belief that something made from stainless steel is better. I share that belief also for things that are subject to the salt environment.
I certainly didn't mean to make fun of your original question- it was very valid. I considered the same question when I replaced my tank also. However after learning that the guts of the tank were the same and the actual tank was not itself stainless, I chalked the stainless steel version up to a marketing ploy.
Please accept my apologies for any offense.
I was just joking and poking a bit of fun at the widespread belief that something made from stainless steel is better. I share that belief also for things that are subject to the salt environment.
I certainly didn't mean to make fun of your original question- it was very valid. I considered the same question when I replaced my tank also. However after learning that the guts of the tank were the same and the actual tank was not itself stainless, I chalked the stainless steel version up to a marketing ploy.
Please accept my apologies for any offense.
Thanks Richard
my thanks to Richard and Rick. I'll probbaly go with a galvanized one. Is there a particualr brand that I should stay away from?
my thanks to Richard and Rick. I'll probbaly go with a galvanized one. Is there a particualr brand that I should stay away from?
I replaced with an identical Seaward
It was a drop-in replacement, same hose positions, almost no effort.
My original was 10 years old and the pressure-temp relief valve was leaking. I couldn't easily remove the valve and after polling the users here I decided that the tank "might" be near end-of-life anyway.
I decided to do a preemptive strike and replace the tank so that a potential mid-season failure wouldn't spoil my week or weekend.
It was a drop-in replacement, same hose positions, almost no effort.
My original was 10 years old and the pressure-temp relief valve was leaking. I couldn't easily remove the valve and after polling the users here I decided that the tank "might" be near end-of-life anyway.
I decided to do a preemptive strike and replace the tank so that a potential mid-season failure wouldn't spoil my week or weekend.
Wayne...
Replaced the water heater on my H34 with a Force 10 unit last summer. Works fine and has a temp regulator built in. Some have complained about it not letting the water get hot enough, but it's plenty hot enough for me whether heated by the shore power or engine interface.
Replaced the water heater on my H34 with a Force 10 unit last summer. Works fine and has a temp regulator built in. Some have complained about it not letting the water get hot enough, but it's plenty hot enough for me whether heated by the shore power or engine interface.
Kumma /Force 10
Kumma is a spinoff of Force 10, I replaced mine last year with a Force 10 just when they were breaking away. The Force 10 rep gave me all kinds of positives about why it was superior but I can't remember one.
The key thing is size and configuration. You don't want to be moving the hoses and some have all the water inlets and outlets in front and some are split front and rear so make sure you get the right model and the right size.
The reason I have bee told that the force 10 did not get as hot or retain it's heat as long was a back flow valve on the fresh water in side. I installed one of those and the water is just as hot and stays warm overnight. Check and see if the Seaward still includes the back flow valve.
Kumma is a spinoff of Force 10, I replaced mine last year with a Force 10 just when they were breaking away. The Force 10 rep gave me all kinds of positives about why it was superior but I can't remember one.
The key thing is size and configuration. You don't want to be moving the hoses and some have all the water inlets and outlets in front and some are split front and rear so make sure you get the right model and the right size.
The reason I have bee told that the force 10 did not get as hot or retain it's heat as long was a back flow valve on the fresh water in side. I installed one of those and the water is just as hot and stays warm overnight. Check and see if the Seaward still includes the back flow valve.
MAKE SURE
MAKE SURE YOU READ THE FINE PRINT ON THE FORCE 10 IT SAYS IT IS A STAINLESS WATERHEATER, IT IS JUST THE OUTSIDE THE TANK IS MADE OUT OF ALUMINUM
MAKE SURE YOU READ THE FINE PRINT ON THE FORCE 10 IT SAYS IT IS A STAINLESS WATERHEATER, IT IS JUST THE OUTSIDE THE TANK IS MADE OUT OF ALUMINUM
The Force 10 is a quality unit
I installed my Force 10 6 gallon about 7 years ago in my H34, works like a champ, no issues at all. One recommendation is to use the SS flex hoses (Home Depot) to connect the gray plastic water lines to the Heater. The old gray plastic fitting was trouble to get tight without leaking.
I installed my Force 10 6 gallon about 7 years ago in my H34, works like a champ, no issues at all. One recommendation is to use the SS flex hoses (Home Depot) to connect the gray plastic water lines to the Heater. The old gray plastic fitting was trouble to get tight without leaking.
thanks to all
thanks to all for your responses. I took out a Seaward and I will probably go back with the same type of unit.
thanks to all for your responses. I took out a Seaward and I will probably go back with the same type of unit.
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