I have to replace the water heater on a recently purchased 1989 Hunter 35. Does anyone have any suggestions regarding heater capacity, brand or ease of installation?
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Isotherm
I recently replaced my original (1979) water heater. The old Raritan lasted a long time, but I did not like the new Raritans - the mounting is week and if you read the manual is says you should find some way to strap them down. The Isotherm is all stainless. They come in various sizes to fit in different places. They have a line that is extra skinny. (and now they have rectangular skinny ones as well) They all come with a built in mounting hardware that is robust. The Force 10's and the the other rectangular brands available via west have aluminum tanks, and require galvanic isolation for the warantee to be good. Since I have been in a couple of marinas that had power "issues" I did not want to take a chance on aluminum. All things considered, I got my Isotherm for about the same price I would have paid for the Raritan or maybe a bit less. And it came with the mounting HW - 2 stainless straps around the tank and a bracket that mounts to a bulkhead. The only thing I found odd is that it comes with a plug - not to be hard wired. When not using the water heater for extended periods they recommend you unplug it. http://www.isotherm.com/ (There are 120 V heaters, not just 230V)
I recently replaced my original (1979) water heater. The old Raritan lasted a long time, but I did not like the new Raritans - the mounting is week and if you read the manual is says you should find some way to strap them down. The Isotherm is all stainless. They come in various sizes to fit in different places. They have a line that is extra skinny. (and now they have rectangular skinny ones as well) They all come with a built in mounting hardware that is robust. The Force 10's and the the other rectangular brands available via west have aluminum tanks, and require galvanic isolation for the warantee to be good. Since I have been in a couple of marinas that had power "issues" I did not want to take a chance on aluminum. All things considered, I got my Isotherm for about the same price I would have paid for the Raritan or maybe a bit less. And it came with the mounting HW - 2 stainless straps around the tank and a bracket that mounts to a bulkhead. The only thing I found odd is that it comes with a plug - not to be hard wired. When not using the water heater for extended periods they recommend you unplug it. http://www.isotherm.com/ (There are 120 V heaters, not just 230V)
Debra, what about the other corrosion?
I don't know if you've heard of it, but stainless steel corrodes in water when the oxygen in the water depletes. (stagnates) You know when you have it because your rudder, or shaft, or pipe breaks and falls off. Maybe it only happens in saltwater, I don't know. Does the Isotherm manual mention anything about oxygenation requirements? In last months Cruising World is an article telling us how to rebuild our diesel engines. A photo shows the new engine with the improved stainless pipes of the cooling system. Great, if the author never stores the boat. If he does, the next season those pipes will look like a soaker-hose. He should have stayed with rubber. But I'm no electrolysis expert, I was only taught that in a class on the subject and shown examples of the damage. And I don't know what stainless grades are exempt, if any. Gord?
I don't know if you've heard of it, but stainless steel corrodes in water when the oxygen in the water depletes. (stagnates) You know when you have it because your rudder, or shaft, or pipe breaks and falls off. Maybe it only happens in saltwater, I don't know. Does the Isotherm manual mention anything about oxygenation requirements? In last months Cruising World is an article telling us how to rebuild our diesel engines. A photo shows the new engine with the improved stainless pipes of the cooling system. Great, if the author never stores the boat. If he does, the next season those pipes will look like a soaker-hose. He should have stayed with rubber. But I'm no electrolysis expert, I was only taught that in a class on the subject and shown examples of the damage. And I don't know what stainless grades are exempt, if any. Gord?
I also just pulled mine which was 20 years
old and very corroded on the bottom. I ended up going with another seaward since this lasted so long. I couldn't get the original size as they don't make that anymore. Paided 239.00 with heat exchanger. 120 volt. 6 gal. West Marine wanted 279.00 for a force 10 but the size was off.
old and very corroded on the bottom. I ended up going with another seaward since this lasted so long. I couldn't get the original size as they don't make that anymore. Paided 239.00 with heat exchanger. 120 volt. 6 gal. West Marine wanted 279.00 for a force 10 but the size was off.
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