If I have a following sea condition water comes in through the discharge and slowly fills the bilge of my 1983 Catalina 27 through the bilge pump. Also when i run the bilge pump and then shut it off the residual water in the exit hose slowly runs back into the bilge. There is a looped riser in the hose just forward of the transom which should prevent back-up but it does not seem to help. I have also replaced the bilge pump. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Water coming into bilge from discharge hose.
- Thread starter wcwinder
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Looped Riser
May not be hight enough or it is not secured correctly. Also check for a hole low in the line (after the loop). Only a guess. Otherwise it should be impossibe for the water to get in through the bilge line. Paul
May not be hight enough or it is not secured correctly. Also check for a hole low in the line (after the loop). Only a guess. Otherwise it should be impossibe for the water to get in through the bilge line. Paul
Water siphon
I had the same problem on my Cat27. Once, in SF Bay, on a hard beat where the outlet was apparently under water in the stern wave, I went below to find water 2 inches above the cabin sole and filling the lockers! You need a check valve or some break in the siphon; a simple loop above the water level in the hose won't do it, there needs to be access to air above the outside water level between the bilge and the thru-hull to break the siphon. A check valve will do it, but be careful as they are notorious for getting clogged and sticking open or closed. I now use a check valve, but take it apart to clean it in the spring and fall, and another couple times/year in season.
I had the same problem on my Cat27. Once, in SF Bay, on a hard beat where the outlet was apparently under water in the stern wave, I went below to find water 2 inches above the cabin sole and filling the lockers! You need a check valve or some break in the siphon; a simple loop above the water level in the hose won't do it, there needs to be access to air above the outside water level between the bilge and the thru-hull to break the siphon. A check valve will do it, but be careful as they are notorious for getting clogged and sticking open or closed. I now use a check valve, but take it apart to clean it in the spring and fall, and another couple times/year in season.
J
Jim
You might use a vented loop
Sounds like you have had a syphon action from your thru hull to the pump. What you might do is put a loop in the output of the pump, so that the highest part is above the waterline on all points of sail. At the highest point you put a vented loop fitting (about $25 from BUCKS US or 1/2 that on ebay). This is a vent that seals when under pressure, and vents when under vacuum, so that a syphon doesn't form. I don't think there is a lot you can do about the "run-back" water except put the high point in your loop as close to the pump as possible. If you want to experiment, put a check valve at the output of the pump. But possible problems with that are a very slow leak back into the boat through the check valve, and if it doesn't leak, then some nasty odors after the water sets for a while.
Sounds like you have had a syphon action from your thru hull to the pump. What you might do is put a loop in the output of the pump, so that the highest part is above the waterline on all points of sail. At the highest point you put a vented loop fitting (about $25 from BUCKS US or 1/2 that on ebay). This is a vent that seals when under pressure, and vents when under vacuum, so that a syphon doesn't form. I don't think there is a lot you can do about the "run-back" water except put the high point in your loop as close to the pump as possible. If you want to experiment, put a check valve at the output of the pump. But possible problems with that are a very slow leak back into the boat through the check valve, and if it doesn't leak, then some nasty odors after the water sets for a while.
B
Bill
Vented Loop
Thanks Jim and all responders. I actually did put a check valve next to the pump but was concerned about issues that have been noted in several responses. The existing loop is at the transom, some 12 feet from the pump, so I am planning to replace the hose (which is probably clogged with God-knows-what)and put a VENTED loop just inside the engine compartment, only about 2 feet away. Then I should not need the valve. I should add that this is a very important issue. When I was bringing my new-to-me 1983 Catalina 27 home to Boston I ran into a squall which turned into a 3 day blow. To get to safe haven I had to turn away from the wind and with the waves smacking the hull and blowing over the deck my wonderfull wife spent the whole time manning the manual bilge pump.
Thanks Jim and all responders. I actually did put a check valve next to the pump but was concerned about issues that have been noted in several responses. The existing loop is at the transom, some 12 feet from the pump, so I am planning to replace the hose (which is probably clogged with God-knows-what)and put a VENTED loop just inside the engine compartment, only about 2 feet away. Then I should not need the valve. I should add that this is a very important issue. When I was bringing my new-to-me 1983 Catalina 27 home to Boston I ran into a squall which turned into a 3 day blow. To get to safe haven I had to turn away from the wind and with the waves smacking the hull and blowing over the deck my wonderfull wife spent the whole time manning the manual bilge pump.
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