Water Ballast pump out

Sep 29, 2012
27
Macgregor 26S It is trailored.
Has anyone set up a rig to pump out the 150 gallons of water ballast in the event of an unwanted grounding?

I believe in the old sailing days, the cannons were dumped over board as they were part of the ships ballast.
 
May 11, 2014
156
Catalina 22 Lake Pleasant, AZ
I read somewhere, in just the past few days, about someone using an air pump to empty the ballast tank in order to float-off after grounding. I cannot find that post now, and there were no other details. How would an air pump help empty the ballast tank?
 
Sep 30, 2012
224
macgregor 26s 1993 cranbrook bc
Just do a quick search at the top of the page and you can get quite a bit of info. But it takes hardly any pressure to blow the water out of the ballast. I just hold my foot pump hose (for a zodiac) over the hole and that works quite well. Other people have made actual fittings to attach their pump on to. Sumner has some nice pictures.
 
Jul 1, 2012
306
MacGregor 26D Kirkland, WA
yes. just a low pressure 12v pump (like for inflating water toys or an air mattress) and some fittings to get a tight-ish seal will move a lot of water out of the ballast. i forget who, but one of the guys on here does that every time before getting back on the trailer.
 

sunman

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Jul 29, 2009
112
Mac Mac 26D Suwannee
ME:
I had the same Q: many posted the Air pump was the method of choice, so I tried it,
it works,
in a few min. my Boot Stripe was well above the water line, and when I re-open'd the water valve back on the hard, prob 10 gals came out
one of the best gaggets these boyz have suggested:D
 
Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
Hey guys don't motor or sail without water in there. Our boats will turtle without that weight and a bit of a puff.
Put the water back in once off the structure.
 

Kermit

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Jul 31, 2010
5,669
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
Hey guys don't motor or sail without water in there. Our boats will turtle without that weight and a bit of a puff. Put the water back in once off the structure.
I had someone tell me recently that I could race faster with my ballast tank only half full. I listened politely but wanted to tell him he was nuts! Maybe I should have corrected him but he doesn't have a water ballast boat. So I let it go.
 
Apr 19, 2012
1,043
O'Day Daysailor 17 Nevis MN
I had someone tell me recently that I could race faster with my ballast tank only half full. I listened politely but wanted to tell him he was nuts! Maybe I should have corrected him but he doesn't have a water ballast boat. So I let it go.
Very wise of you not to follow his advise. In order for water ballast to work properly it needs to be full. A half full tank will slosh and make the boat even less stable than if it had no water in it at all.
 
Jun 17, 2014
71
MacGregor 26D Greater Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Are you sure there are no baffles in the ballast tank? I would have expected MacGregor to at least do that. (Not that I advocate half full tanks, just think baffles in the ballast tank to be a rather rudimentary design consideration.)
 

Sumner

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Jan 31, 2009
5,254
Macgregor & Endeavour 26S and 37 Utah's Canyon Country
Are you sure there are no baffles in the ballast tank? I would have expected MacGregor to at least do that. (Not that I advocate half full tanks, just think baffles in the ballast tank to be a rather rudimentary design consideration.)
Since the tank should always be full I don't see a need for baffles from that respect.

Possibly for strength reasons but with all the compound curves in the tank and its dimensions I don't feel they would be needed for strength either so I'd be surprise if there are any but I don't know it that is the case,


Sumner

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Apr 19, 2012
1,043
O'Day Daysailor 17 Nevis MN
True the description in that thread calls that part a baffle but from the pictures it looks more like a support member (most likely supporting the floor rather than the hull). Any baffling action that that part will perform will be for and aft. The main issue on a sailboat, however, is side to side motion thus making it virtually ineffective as a baffle.

Baffles slow down the flow of liquid to minimize surge. They do not stop the flow. Even if the ballast tank had baffles when the boat heels the water will still flow to the leeward side of a partially filled tank thus loosing most, if not all, righting moment of the ballast.

Think of a 2 liter soda bottle. When the bottle is half full the fluid will slosh around as the bottle is moved in any direction. When it's full, however, the fluid inside doesn't move relative to the bottle (besides swirling when you spin the bottle which would have little effect on the boat). Thus the whole system of the bottle and fluid work together acting as one solid unit. This is why the ballast tanks must be full to function properly.

As Sumner said, "Since the tank should always be full I don't see a need for baffles from that respect."
 

walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,541
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
I wouldn’t want to speculate about what those "baffle" looking things are (or are they “support” looking things?), you probably would need to ask the design team what problem they were trying to solve.

Somewhat interesting also.. my tank ends up with the water level coming just about to the very top. When Sumner has his boat fully loaded, the water level would come way over the top so 100% full for sure. We were discussing this a long time ago and someone with a D said their water level stays a bit below the inspection hole (maybe a couple inches?) so the tank doesn’t completely fill and will slosh a little..

I don’t know how much the water level being a couple inches below the top of the tank matters (aparently it doesnt matter - with over 25 years of history now).. but I do know I capsized my 15 foot dingy when I first got it which resulted in some water in the inner hull and it could slosh around. It just completely ruined all the righting moment of the hull and I couldn’t even think about sailing the boat. Any wind at all on the sail would just tip the boat over.

FYI, the OP had asked the same question on the Mac power sailor forum. I think a lot of people view both forums but here is that thread on the same subject http://macgregorsailors.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=23929
 
Apr 19, 2012
1,043
O'Day Daysailor 17 Nevis MN
I wouldn’t want to speculate about what those "baffle" looking things are (or are they “support” looking things?), you probably would need to ask the design team what problem they were trying to solve.

Somewhat interesting also.. my tank ends up with the water level coming just about to the very top. When Sumner has his boat fully loaded, the water level would come way over the top so 100% full for sure. We were discussing this a long time ago and someone with a D said their water level stays a bit below the inspection hole (maybe a couple inches?) so the tank doesn’t completely fill and will slosh a little..

I don’t know how much the water level being a couple inches below the top of the tank matters (aparently it doesnt matter - with over 25 years of history now).. but I do know I capsized my 15 foot dingy when I first got it which resulted in some water in the inner hull and it could slosh around. It just completely ruined all the righting moment of the hull and I couldn’t even think about sailing the boat. Any wind at all on the sail would just tip the boat over.

FYI, the OP had asked the same question on the Mac power sailor forum. I think a lot of people view both forums but here is that thread on the same subject http://macgregorsailors.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=23929
You have some valid points Walt. When my tank is "full" the water level is about 2-1/2" from the top. The key to this is that all the air is confined to the dome at the top of the tank which holds such a small amount of air (about 1/2 gallon) that it is negligible compared to the rest of the ballast tank (about 150 gallons). If that dome wasn't there that 2-1/2 inches of space would make a big difference.

I appreciate the story about your dinghy. That really does help to make my point. What kind of boat was it?
 

walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,541
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
Some pictures also showing that. First picture is a tin can with a coin over to one side. Second picture is the same can and coin but the water from the shot glass was added to the tin can. The water added is just a small portion of the volume but it really makes the tin can list..

The boat I had this happen with is a C15. If I have a mast tip float, water wont get inside the hull when I dump it (which I did once last season and twice the season before). I had the "fun" water in the hull experiment (which required a rescue from a power boat) before I added the mast tip float.
 

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Kermit

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Jul 31, 2010
5,669
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
Very interesting thread. It never would have occurred to me to test the water ballast theory with a can and a quarter. I guess that's why we pay Walt the big bucks. Thanks!
 
Nov 19, 2011
1,489
MacGregor 26S Hampton, VA
Take the quarter out and the can may right. It would if the bottom weren't flat anyway.

If we learn nothing from this, don't pour a bunch of lead pellets into your ballast tank (Or a bunch of quarters).
 
Jun 17, 2014
71
MacGregor 26D Greater Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Take the quarter out and the can may right. It would if the bottom weren't flat anyway.

If we learn nothing from this, don't pour a bunch of lead pellets into your ballast tank (Or a bunch of quarters).

I'm sure we've all sunk a lot more than just quarters into our boats!

:evil:
 

walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,541
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
sort of "amusing"..

In that link earlier, I think that boat (water ballast) would probably still float just fine even with all that damage as it looks to be all under the ballast tank. I dont even think the inpspection hole would need to be tight.. just dont add any weight to get the inspection hole below the water line - then it would be going to the bottom fast. If the inspection hole were tightly sealed, it would even float fine then. It would have no righting moment however.. not a good idea to raise a sail.

Maybe also not a good idea to put (or drop) the weight of the boat on a single small area "point load" LOL..