When fixing my waste pump, I noticed that the tank was tilted so the starboard side was lower than port, (where my hoses are) since tank was loose I realigned the tank several different ways. Which way was it designed to go? slant to forward, starboard? hoses to port or aft? 1978 bahama islander second question one of the bolts on the jabsco mercator pump was broke, do those come in the rebuild kit?
Waste tank
- Thread starter Neal8415
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Has nothing to do with port or starboard, fore or aft...
It has to do with where the tank is located relative to the toilet and deck pumpout fitting. Any slant in the way the tank sits should be toward the discharge fitting so that waste runs toward it. That may or may not be possible depending on where the hose fittings on the tank are located...'cuz all the hoses--inlet from the toilet, discharge, and vent line--should be as short and straight as possible. The tank also needs to be secured to prevent it from moving around when the boat heels. And, based on your questions and the age of the boat, I'd recommend replacing all the hoses...and, depending on the make/model age of the toilet, maybe replace it too if you want to be sure it will work reliably. As for your macerator, don't bother to rebuild it or replace it, 'cuz you can't use it. It's illegal to dump a tank in all U.S. inland waters...pumpout is the only legal way to empty a tank. In AR, it's illegal even to have a macerator installed or any plumbing connected to an overboard discharge thru-hull, and EVERY boat is inspected to make sure the system complies with the law. I'm in AR, btw, and will glad to help you sort out how to set up your sanitation system correctly. Meanwhile, I think you'll find the link below useful.
It has to do with where the tank is located relative to the toilet and deck pumpout fitting. Any slant in the way the tank sits should be toward the discharge fitting so that waste runs toward it. That may or may not be possible depending on where the hose fittings on the tank are located...'cuz all the hoses--inlet from the toilet, discharge, and vent line--should be as short and straight as possible. The tank also needs to be secured to prevent it from moving around when the boat heels. And, based on your questions and the age of the boat, I'd recommend replacing all the hoses...and, depending on the make/model age of the toilet, maybe replace it too if you want to be sure it will work reliably. As for your macerator, don't bother to rebuild it or replace it, 'cuz you can't use it. It's illegal to dump a tank in all U.S. inland waters...pumpout is the only legal way to empty a tank. In AR, it's illegal even to have a macerator installed or any plumbing connected to an overboard discharge thru-hull, and EVERY boat is inspected to make sure the system complies with the law. I'm in AR, btw, and will glad to help you sort out how to set up your sanitation system correctly. Meanwhile, I think you'll find the link below useful.
not a flat bottom
Guess i should have added more info, the tank support has been replaced in the boat, when they replaced it, they made the hoses go to port. The bottom of the tank isnt flat, 2/3 of its flat, 1/3 of it slopes upward at 30%. Since they replaced the support with regular plywood, its separated and in need of replacement. was wondering in the orginal configuration was the slanted portion of the tank nestled in the bow. or was it on the starboard side to counteract the weight of the freshwater tank on the port side. As for the sanitary pump, Im in arkansas but the boat isnt. I unfortunaly have to drive to it, but at least its parked where i can sail to the open ocean.
Guess i should have added more info, the tank support has been replaced in the boat, when they replaced it, they made the hoses go to port. The bottom of the tank isnt flat, 2/3 of its flat, 1/3 of it slopes upward at 30%. Since they replaced the support with regular plywood, its separated and in need of replacement. was wondering in the orginal configuration was the slanted portion of the tank nestled in the bow. or was it on the starboard side to counteract the weight of the freshwater tank on the port side. As for the sanitary pump, Im in arkansas but the boat isnt. I unfortunaly have to drive to it, but at least its parked where i can sail to the open ocean.
If the tank is long and skinny...
It's intended to lie along the hull....which side of the boat depends on which side the toilet, deck pumpout and overboard discharge fittings are on. If that causes it to slant the "wrong" direction, you can always shim one end if you want the contents to run toward the discharge fitting...that only requires a degree or two. The inlet fitting from the toilet should be at the end closest to the toilet, the discharge fitting should allow the hose to aim toward the thru-hull and macerator. Btw...what's the tank made of? If it's aluminum, now's the time to replace it...'cuz you'll have to before long. As for your macerator, nothing on the outside of the housing is included in the rebuild kit. If it's old and has spent much time sitting, I wouldn't rebuild it, I'd replace it. If you don't plan to to use the tank much--meaning that the macerator won't be used much either--I'd go with manual or electric diaphragm pump instead of a macerator. 'Cuz waste is sticky...so when macerators sit for a while, the impeller gets stuck to its housing...tight enough that starting it up again can break off a vane. Diaphragm pumps can sit for long periods without harm and, unlike impeller pumps, can also run dry without harm.
It's intended to lie along the hull....which side of the boat depends on which side the toilet, deck pumpout and overboard discharge fittings are on. If that causes it to slant the "wrong" direction, you can always shim one end if you want the contents to run toward the discharge fitting...that only requires a degree or two. The inlet fitting from the toilet should be at the end closest to the toilet, the discharge fitting should allow the hose to aim toward the thru-hull and macerator. Btw...what's the tank made of? If it's aluminum, now's the time to replace it...'cuz you'll have to before long. As for your macerator, nothing on the outside of the housing is included in the rebuild kit. If it's old and has spent much time sitting, I wouldn't rebuild it, I'd replace it. If you don't plan to to use the tank much--meaning that the macerator won't be used much either--I'd go with manual or electric diaphragm pump instead of a macerator. 'Cuz waste is sticky...so when macerators sit for a while, the impeller gets stuck to its housing...tight enough that starting it up again can break off a vane. Diaphragm pumps can sit for long periods without harm and, unlike impeller pumps, can also run dry without harm.
slant to starboard
Neal, Here is a comment from someone replacing the holding tank on his B30. Sorry the response is probably too late. The old tank has a curve to its starboard side. The new tank was flat. I was able to maneuver the new tank to a solid spot. But the again the new fitting fittings were straight and I realized I needed 90's. Kent B30 Jazzed
Neal, Here is a comment from someone replacing the holding tank on his B30. Sorry the response is probably too late. The old tank has a curve to its starboard side. The new tank was flat. I was able to maneuver the new tank to a solid spot. But the again the new fitting fittings were straight and I realized I needed 90's. Kent B30 Jazzed
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