Recent purchase, and had everything looked over by a rigger. Had to change the exhaust elbow. It's a 2cyl Yanmar. Yesterday on our 'maiden voyage' I started hearing a bleeping/buzzing warning sound from the area where you place the key/start the engine. Certainly there can be a lot of 'causes' but what is common? Could that possibly be something as simple as low fuel?
- Status
Neil
Neil, I am no expert, but... I would think it was most likely the "high engine temp" warning. I don't have your type of engine but from what little I have learned the water temp should be between 160 and 190 degrees on most engines. There is a web site called "marineengine.com" that could also help. another thought, but not as likely is the depth alarm for when your in shallow water. Please read the first 4 words i wrote at the beginning of my sentance and good luck, Jack
Neil, I am no expert, but... I would think it was most likely the "high engine temp" warning. I don't have your type of engine but from what little I have learned the water temp should be between 160 and 190 degrees on most engines. There is a web site called "marineengine.com" that could also help. another thought, but not as likely is the depth alarm for when your in shallow water. Please read the first 4 words i wrote at the beginning of my sentance and good luck, Jack
OIL PRESSURE or water temp
Not specifically familiar with your boat - or Hunters in General, but the most common use of warning buzzers on sailboats is for low oil pressure and for high cooling water temp. The buzzers frequently accompany a warning light for those two conditions as well. Low oil pressure = bad = possible low oil level, possible bad oil pump, etc. High cooling water temp = pretty bad = blocked intake, low cooling level, bad impeller, etc. Good Luck! Tim Brogan April IV C350 #68 Seattle
Not specifically familiar with your boat - or Hunters in General, but the most common use of warning buzzers on sailboats is for low oil pressure and for high cooling water temp. The buzzers frequently accompany a warning light for those two conditions as well. Low oil pressure = bad = possible low oil level, possible bad oil pump, etc. High cooling water temp = pretty bad = blocked intake, low cooling level, bad impeller, etc. Good Luck! Tim Brogan April IV C350 #68 Seattle
And Neil
You're going to need 'Luck', and lots of it if you don't get some owners manuals and study them. Being on the water in a boat is not the same as a car. You need to learn this stuff FIRST. Oh, as always, IMHO.
You're going to need 'Luck', and lots of it if you don't get some owners manuals and study them. Being on the water in a boat is not the same as a car. You need to learn this stuff FIRST. Oh, as always, IMHO.
one of three possabilities
you more than likely have the 2QM15 or 20 this engine was built between 1978 thru 1980. it has a common alarm busser for temp,alternator, and oil pressure. note; if its the qm series it was only built in the raw water cooled config. and running temp was about 120deg F.service manuals can be purchased from torrenson marine or whatever zone your in as to dealers.
you more than likely have the 2QM15 or 20 this engine was built between 1978 thru 1980. it has a common alarm busser for temp,alternator, and oil pressure. note; if its the qm series it was only built in the raw water cooled config. and running temp was about 120deg F.service manuals can be purchased from torrenson marine or whatever zone your in as to dealers.
Agree with Fred....Get a engine manual, quick!
As far as I know, I can't think of any boat that has a low fuel alarm. Please, for the safety of you, your family, and the life of your engine and your boat, get a Yanmar engine manual for your engine. Just contact a Yanmar dealer and tell them your engine model number. Not just the 2 cyl part, but the whole 6 digit string, in the format of #AA##A, where # is a number, and A is a alpha. They are usually in this format, but I am sure there probably are some other format too. You should be able to find that info on the engine, usually etched on a piece of metal. Happy sailing.
As far as I know, I can't think of any boat that has a low fuel alarm. Please, for the safety of you, your family, and the life of your engine and your boat, get a Yanmar engine manual for your engine. Just contact a Yanmar dealer and tell them your engine model number. Not just the 2 cyl part, but the whole 6 digit string, in the format of #AA##A, where # is a number, and A is a alpha. They are usually in this format, but I am sure there probably are some other format too. You should be able to find that info on the engine, usually etched on a piece of metal. Happy sailing.
2QM15 Buzzer
We have the Yanmar 2QM15 Diesel engine and the buzzer sounds whenever the key is turned on and the engine is not running. Once the engine starts, the buzzer stops. Likewise, when we stop the engine with the kill switch, the buzzer sounds until we turn the key off. Don't think you have much to worry about is the buzzer turns off once the engine starts running.
We have the Yanmar 2QM15 Diesel engine and the buzzer sounds whenever the key is turned on and the engine is not running. Once the engine starts, the buzzer stops. Likewise, when we stop the engine with the kill switch, the buzzer sounds until we turn the key off. Don't think you have much to worry about is the buzzer turns off once the engine starts running.
And, One Other Possibility....
...regarding the warning buzzer, assuming it stays on or comes on when the engine is running. If you had the mixing elbow replaced, there was probably a lot of water-flow blockage. Under those conditions, the impeller tends to fail early. It could be that if it wasn't changed at the same time. Good luck. You might ask your mechanic about installing a water temp and oil pressure guage. But, keep the warning buzzer and light. I did that, and it helped isolate problems and made monitoring the system much easier. RD
...regarding the warning buzzer, assuming it stays on or comes on when the engine is running. If you had the mixing elbow replaced, there was probably a lot of water-flow blockage. Under those conditions, the impeller tends to fail early. It could be that if it wasn't changed at the same time. Good luck. You might ask your mechanic about installing a water temp and oil pressure guage. But, keep the warning buzzer and light. I did that, and it helped isolate problems and made monitoring the system much easier. RD
Yanmar Manual
Is the referenced Yanmar engine manual different too and better than their official "Operation Manual"?? The original Operation Manual (1988) is impressive at first glance, then you realize that it is written in five languages and covers four different engines, so only 1/20th of it is of any use to a single reader.....and the illustrations are very poor!!!
Is the referenced Yanmar engine manual different too and better than their official "Operation Manual"?? The original Operation Manual (1988) is impressive at first glance, then you realize that it is written in five languages and covers four different engines, so only 1/20th of it is of any use to a single reader.....and the illustrations are very poor!!!
On universal M12... The buzzer is straight
from the oil pressure switch on the motor. Guess what? It buzzes when the engine is off ... because there is no oil pressure when the engine isn't running ... as well as when you start to run out of oil. It also serves to remind you when the ignition is still turned on after you shut the engine down. BY THE WAY ... there is nothing so bad as being in rough weather with the GPS, autohelm. depth sounder, and engine running and trying to remember which is beeping for what while you are distracted by trying to survive. Now that is a treat, especially when you are moving your boat the first day of the season and haven't heard the little beeps for six months. Vic "Seven"
from the oil pressure switch on the motor. Guess what? It buzzes when the engine is off ... because there is no oil pressure when the engine isn't running ... as well as when you start to run out of oil. It also serves to remind you when the ignition is still turned on after you shut the engine down. BY THE WAY ... there is nothing so bad as being in rough weather with the GPS, autohelm. depth sounder, and engine running and trying to remember which is beeping for what while you are distracted by trying to survive. Now that is a treat, especially when you are moving your boat the first day of the season and haven't heard the little beeps for six months. Vic "Seven"
2GM buzzer.
Neil: We had a similar problem on our H'31 last year. It turned out that the wire on the water temp sensor was shorting out. The part was about $25 and just a couple of minutes to replace it. The sensor is on the front of the engine. It has a single wire attached to it with a protective cap. There is a screw/terminal that is epoxied to the sensor. That actually broke and was making intermittent contact.
Neil: We had a similar problem on our H'31 last year. It turned out that the wire on the water temp sensor was shorting out. The part was about $25 and just a couple of minutes to replace it. The sensor is on the front of the engine. It has a single wire attached to it with a protective cap. There is a screw/terminal that is epoxied to the sensor. That actually broke and was making intermittent contact.
Origional Poster (OP) - Update
Ahoy all. Thanks for taking the time to reply - and the advice about a manual, well - right on target. I have changed the mixing elbow (was ruined) which enabled me to run the engine. After about 5min the water temp light goes off. Got manual - Changed thermostat (it was completely locked shut). Did help - engine now runs about 10 min. There is some bottom growth (stringy green) that I'm just about positive is in the way of my seawater intake (anyone have trouble with this?) If that doesn't clear it and allow a cool running engine, then I'm onto the impeller. Seems some debate around power boating friends that I have a 2nd impeller? By the Kingston Cock intake? The only one in the manual is the impeller in the water pump (at least that I see). Oh yea...on that Kingston....there is a level that opens/shuts the cock.....when I reached down to check it....the lever literally fell off into my hands. Great....juuuust great.
Ahoy all. Thanks for taking the time to reply - and the advice about a manual, well - right on target. I have changed the mixing elbow (was ruined) which enabled me to run the engine. After about 5min the water temp light goes off. Got manual - Changed thermostat (it was completely locked shut). Did help - engine now runs about 10 min. There is some bottom growth (stringy green) that I'm just about positive is in the way of my seawater intake (anyone have trouble with this?) If that doesn't clear it and allow a cool running engine, then I'm onto the impeller. Seems some debate around power boating friends that I have a 2nd impeller? By the Kingston Cock intake? The only one in the manual is the impeller in the water pump (at least that I see). Oh yea...on that Kingston....there is a level that opens/shuts the cock.....when I reached down to check it....the lever literally fell off into my hands. Great....juuuust great.
- Status