Wanting to add a windlass to 1994 Legend 40.5

[gertonw]

although there some posts addressing this topic, I am interested in which windlass would work specifically for my Legend 40.5, as well as what work needs to be done in regard reinforcing the anchor locker and wiring it up.
Also, if someone who has a Legend with a factory windlass could make some pictures in the anchor locker as well as below it in the V-berth of how all is installed and connected, that would be fabulous :dance:.

Last, what anchor do you use with what rode?

Many thanks,

Wes

 

[Scott NIelsen]

Wes,

I have a 1996 Hunter 37.5 and wanted to add an anchor windlass as you do. I could find a few photos and replies from others who had added a windlass. The best effort that I saw was from a 35.5 owner. I believe all the legend series are somewhat similar. However there are differences that make an anchor windlass install different for each size Legend. I had purchased my windlass, anchor, chain and rode however, I took almost a year and a half researching and planning the install before I cut any holes. I made an installation presentation of sorts with photos and attached it for your viewing pleasure. Please use as you like. I created it in hopes that others could benefit from my effort. Hope you find some answers I it. Do not hesitate to ask if you have any questions I do not answer in the file.

Scott.

 

[gertonw]

@Scott,

many thanks for sharing your project. Very insightful and will for sure help me do mine.

Wes

 

[ben solomon]

I didn't see the attachment? Can you resend it? I would really appreciate it!

Thank you!

 

[gertonw]

@Ben
Just click on the tiny pic in the "Attached Thumbnails". It should open or download a PDF

Wes

 

[Steve Dion]

Contact the HOW store. They have access to a windlass with a cut away throat.

 

[ben solomon]

Wes,

All I can say is, Wow!! What a beautiful job! Thanks for posting.

Ben

 

[Scott NIelsen]

Wes,

All I can say is, Wow!! What a beautiful job! Thanks for posting.

Ben

Ben,

This is Scott. If you are responding to the attachment that I provided as a response to Wes, that was mine effort on my 37.5. I provided it to Wes and all Hunter owners as a guide of what I did so others would not have to do as much research as I did. If you are planning to install a windlass on your 37.5 and have any questions on what I did, do not hesitate to ask me. I can correspond through email to any questions you may have. Thank you for the compliment if it was my attachment you are referring to. My boat OLD CROW is kept in Norfolk, VA. There are a few 35.5s down at this end and at least one 30 of the legend series that I know of in Hampton Roads area. BLACK DOG, a 35.5 that Jim Beaudreax owns and I are friends and have a friendly race rivalry.

Scott

 

[ben solomon]

Scott,

Sorry about that. I responded incorrectly. That is a very impressive installation! The .PDF is equally as impressive. I could not even come close to doing that as well. I have a 1990 37.5 legend. The anchor locker configuration is identical to yours. There is already a cabinet in my vberth, that I use as the linen closet. I was most interested to see the type of windlass you used. Do you think it would be easy to run a remote to the helm?

Thanks,
Ben

 

[Scott NIelsen]

Scott,

Sorry about that. I responded incorrectly. That is a very impressive installation! The .PDF is equally as impressive. I could not even come close to doing that as well. I have a 1990 37.5 legend. The anchor locker configuration is identical to yours. There is already a cabinet in my vberth, that I use as the linen closet. I was most interested to see the type of windlass you used. Do you think it would be easy to run a remote to the helm?

Thanks,
Ben

Ben,

I think you could do that as long as you run what would be quite a long cable for the remote at the same time as you ran your battery cables. However, when I ran the battery cables I started at the bow and went to the stern. If you are wiring a remote, unless you are doing a conector plug, which might be the way to go, at the stern this would be more difficult but doable as you could start the cable run in the aft area and go to the bow. The reason I did not do a remote is my experience with anchoring on my own boats and vessels I've chartered is it is pretty much impossible to see what your doing way back at the stern. I really like having someone at the bow letting me know what is going on while anchoring. Yet again, If you are solo and experienced at anchoring with a remote, then why not. Or, are you asking about a handheld remote at the anchor Locker? If that is the case, absolutely. I can still convert the installation I did with a remote wired in. I just need to buy one. Where I would put it is where I put the up/down switch in the anchor well in lieu of the up/down switch. However, with a marine environment, and especially an anchor locker, I like the redundancy of two methods at a minimum and would keep the foot switches.

Scott.

 

[ben solomon]

Scott,

Yes, I meant a long wired plug in remote at the anchor locker. I will keep studying your diagrams and work up the courage.

Ben.

 

[ben solomon]

As for the anchor, I use a 50 pound Danforth with 25ft of chain and the rest 3/4 inch triple braid nylon. When I upgrade, i will go all chain to match the windlass.

Ben

 

[Scott NIelsen]

As for the anchor, I use a 50 pound Danforth with 25ft of chain and the rest 3/4 inch triple braid nylon. When I upgrade, i will go all chain to match the windlass.

Ben

Ben,

As primary on the windlass, I have 60ft of chain and 150ft of 7/8 three strand on a 33 lb. Bruce anchor. Secondary is a Large Danforth (not sure of size as came with boat) I think 30ft of chain and 150ft of 7/8 three strand. Now secondary chain will not work with windlass as the chain is not the proper size for the gypsy. The three strand goes through the anchor windlass gypsy just fine.

Scott

 

[ben solomon]

Scott,

Thanks for the information. Perhaps in the off season I may get the cajones for this.

Ben

 

[artboas]

Proper 40.5 install

Scott,

Thanks for the information. Perhaps in the off season I may get the cajones for this.

Ben

The 40.5 was made to use a vertical windlass mounted horizontally inside the anchor locker.
I did this myself, as the boat came from the factory without a windlass.
The original windlass specified was the Simpson Lawrence Anchorman 1500.
Hunter has a drawing of where the mounting hole was drilled in the bulkhead.
By using a vertical windlass, the chain runs perfectly over the bow roller, and drops into the locker.
I note that in the pictorial post that the other owner reccomended going with welding cable versus Anchor brand wire. DO NOT do this.
Welding cable is great, and very flexible, but it isn't tinned copper. If you use non-tinned cable (especially in a wet area), it will soak up water & salt, turning black immediately. You pay more for tinned cable, but it's necessary.
Another suggestion:
Instead of mounting foot switches, go with a hand held controller. You can pick up hand held winch remotes cheaply on ebay. Use a weather proof plug, and stow it when not in use

 

[Scott NIelsen]

The 40.5 was made to use a vertical windlass mounted horizontally inside the anchor locker.
I did this myself, as the boat came from the factory without a windlass.
The original windlass specified was the Simpson Lawrence Anchorman 1500.
Hunter has a drawing of where the mounting hole was drilled in the bulkhead.
By using a vertical windlass, the chain runs perfectly over the bow roller, and drops into the locker.
I note that in the pictorial post that the other owner reccomended going with welding cable versus Anchor brand wire. DO NOT do this.
Welding cable is great, and very flexible, but it isn't tinned copper. If you use non-tinned cable (especially in a wet area), it will soak up water & salt, turning black immediately. You pay more for tinned cable, but it's necessary.
Another suggestion:
Instead of mounting foot switches, go with a hand held controller. You can pick up hand held winch remotes cheaply on ebay. Use a weather proof plug, and stow it when not in use

If the 40.5 is designed for a windlass in the anchor locker, which Wes can answer that question, then yes, I agree that welding cable should not be used. However, on the 37.5 which is not designed for an anchor windlass in the anchor locker, as I installed it all wiring connections are located in the people part of the boat where it is not exposed to the salt environment of the anchor locker, welding cable is just fine as all connections are not exposed and significantly cheaper and can actually handle more current per size. If you want to spend all the extra money on marine grade wire, by all means. However, 80% of the wiring used on your production boat is off the shelf wire purchased in bulk from the lowest bidder. Do not take my word for it, just look at the wiring on your bought and you will see that this is pretty much the case. I do use marine grade tinned wire on any application that is exposed to the outside elements. In fact most production boats, even though they carry a NMMA sticker are not wired in accordance with ABYC standard. Just open up your electrical panel and look at the connections, if you know the ABYC standards, and I do, you will see that they are followed only some of the time. If you doubt my wisdom, here is my background. I was in the Navy for 30 years. 20 Years as a Missile Technician (this is an electronics rating) on submarines. Then I was a Submarine Ordnance officer for ten years. I worked as a Chief Test Engineer at Newport News Shipyard where we build Navy submarines. For the last 8 years and present I work at the submarine training facility in Norfolk, VA. So you could say I have been around the block a bit with the marine environment and wiring. However, I will never tell you not to use tinned wiring. All I am saying is look at you application, where it is needed. It is not always required on a boat. By the way, the Navy doesn't use tinned wiring per say. remember my statement about highest bidder. That is a business decision and the Navy has been doing fine with it for more than a few years. I am very comfortable with my decision to use welding cable. I did give it a lot of thought before using it.

Scott.

 

[artboas]

Tinned wire

If the 40.5 is designed for a windlass in the anchor locker, which Wes can answer that question, then yes, I agree that welding cable should not be used. However, on the 37.5 which is not designed for an anchor windlass in the anchor locker, as I installed it all wiring connections are located in the people part of the boat where it is not exposed to the salt environment of the anchor locker, welding cable is just fine as all connections are not exposed and significantly cheaper and can actually handle more current per size. If you want to spend all the extra money on marine grade wire, by all means. However, 80% of the wiring used on your production boat is off the shelf wire purchased in bulk from the lowest bidder. Do not take my word for it, just look at the wiring on your bought and you will see that this is pretty much the case. I do use marine grade tinned wire on any application that is exposed to the outside elements. In fact most production boats, even though they carry a NMMA sticker are not wired in accordance with ABYC standard. Just open up your electrical panel and look at the connections, if you know the ABYC standards, and I do, you will see that they are followed only some of the time. If you doubt my wisdom, here is my background. I was in the Navy for 30 years. 20 Years as a Missile Technician (this is an electronics rating) on submarines. Then I was a Submarine Ordnance officer for ten years. I worked as a Chief Test Engineer at Newport News Shipyard where we build Navy submarines. For the last 8 years and present I work at the submarine training facility in Norfolk, VA. So you could say I have been around the block a bit with the marine environment and wiring. However, I will never tell you not to use tinned wiring. All I am saying is look at you application, where it is needed. It is not always required on a boat. By the way, the Navy doesn't use tinned wiring per say. remember my statement about highest bidder. That is a business decision and the Navy has been doing fine with it for more than a few years. I am very comfortable with my decision to use welding cable. I did give it a lot of thought before using it.

Scott.

Respectfully, all of the wiring on Hunter boats is tinned copper. They strictly adhere to ABYC rules. I can tell you that this is one of the reasons I bought my 40.5. and my subsequent 49.
Sadly, builders such as Beneteau & Jeanneau still use non-tinned copper. Furthermore, on beneteau, they don't use color code at all..... Just red & black.
Re: your comment that welding cable will handle more current than the equivalent guage tinned Anchor tinned cable, I must strongly disagree.
Cable current capacity us specified by guage. It makes no difference if there is a higher strand count, tinned or non-tinned. It is the cross section of the conductor.
Regarding non-tinned wire. It doesn't matter where you have it on your boat. If it us exposed to salt air, the cable will turn black very quickly, and then green if exposured to moisture as well.
Anchor, (along with other manufacturers) sell a line of crimp terminals which have a heat shrink sleeve behind the crimp. The proper (and only) procedure when criming these to non-tinned wire is to crimp, then solder the exposed wire coming through the crimp terminal, finally heating up the heat shrink. This will "seal" the end of the cable, and is the only method of installing non-tinned wire which won't lead to corroded high resistance terminations in a few years.
Having spent many, many years being involved with megayacht wiring systems in every part of the world, I can attest to the fact that tinned wire is the only reliable cable, irrespective of application ; from high current to instrumentation systems

 

[ben solomon]

You guys are very talented. This is not a project for the faint hearted. I will go with the handheld remote, most likely.

Ben

 

[artboas]

One day job

You guys are very talented. This is not a project for the faint hearted. I will go with the handheld remote, most likely.

Ben

Actually, the windlass was a 1 day job, but I'm pretty handy.
I'm sure you could do it in 2 days with some planning.
In my case, I ordered the boat without a windlass for 2 reasons :
It was a $3500 option.
They were still a little exotic in 1994.
I didn't think I'd need it. I was a lot younger, and just assumed that because I had no problems hauling up the anchor on my 33 footer, that I could haul up the anchor on my new 40.5 with no big issue. Wrong.

We got to our first anchorage on our cruise, and set the anchor. It took me over an hour to bring it back up, and damned near killed myself doing it.
So, the cruise came to a temporary halt.
I took a train back to Toronto, called Hunter to get the windlass specs, and had one shipped fedex that day.
Loaded up the car with 4 tool boxes, windlass, cable, etc. Drove to the boat & installed it.
Then drove back to Toronto, got back on the train with my famiky & resumed the cruise.

 

[ben solomon]

That's a great story!

Ben