Want to buy this Hunter 27

[Rossko]

I'm very familiar with Catalinas but not so much with Hunters. I was looking for a late model Catalina 27 but none are available in my area. Then I found a 1980 Hunter 27 - immaculate condition, new engine, lots of extras, bottom/deck/cabin in insanely great condition for a reasonable price and I test sailed it and basically am in love with it. Here's the problem:

Our lake (drought conditions last 2 years) ran dry - I know the boat sat on it's keel for months in the mud - basically dock lines kept it straight up. I'm hoping drought conditions are over now (lake is over-flowing now). The current owner (more experience than I) thinks it's no big deal as long as it didn't "lean" on the the keel. It doesn't have a trailer so if drought conditions return I'll have to do the same thing (floating doc so no "sling" ability). I have searched and received conflicting information - so, should I not buy this boat b/c of this knowledge. Hull looks to be in good condition as do the keel bolts. There is a small amount (1") water in the bilge; 2 bilge pumps work but don't get rid of all the water. Not sure where water is coming from - fresh water lake so "salt" taste won't work.

 

[Benny17441]

When the boat is in the water the whole weight of the keel is suspended from the hull at the keel/hull joint. Boat motion when sailing induces acceleration so the joint is actually capable of supporting a force larger than the keels weight. The weight of the keel on the h27 is approximately half of the boat's dry weight so the weight of the hull can be easily supported by the joint with no ill effects if that is what you are worried about.

 

[Sailm8]

When boats are hauled, they rest on the keel and are supported by jack stands that basically keep the boat centered on the keel. No crack at the hull joint I would say no worries.

 

[amcmahon]

Agree with 2 previous posts. Water in bilge is normal for older h27. These are notorious for rain water leaks along toe rail and ports. Give a good look at compression post area - does the head sloding door open easilly - a sign of some compression post rot. Great boat, have had mine ('84 h27) 11 years now. Good luck.

 

[lesrrt]

Take the time to tighten all the toe rail bolts. This somewhat time consuming as you will need various deep sockets and crows feet bits. May have to reach through a port light and hold a screw with a large Phillips head. Must do
All the stanchion bolts. The reward is mostly
Leak free. You will be surprised how loose all the bolts, thus the leaks.
Another note, you'll have to remove the shelf above the stove to get to those bolts. Hope this helps.

 

[DianaOfBurlington]

Buy it.

I like lesrrt's suggestion of tightening the toerail bolts; but be careful. If the toerail bolts' locknuts move too much, you may be missing bedding compound under the rail itself. Before tightening any of them (including the stanchion-base bolts), I would investigate the seam between the toerail and the deck with some kind of feeler gauge. If you have significant voids, squeeze in 5200. (Don't use anything else.). After it sets up a few days, tighten the bolts.

When this is done, mask off a gap of about 3/16" along the bottom of the toerail, along the hull, and apply a bead of black 5200 to seal the bottom edge as well. Then be sure the ends of the rail are sealed off too. This helps only if you have adequately sealed the edge against the deck first, which is vastly more important.

Most of these toerails were made with square holes and fastened with stainless-steel carriage bolts having square shanks where they pass through the aluminum and slotless heads on top. These do not need (and cannot get) attention from topside; they are best addressed underneath. For stanchion bolts, if you get the chance to replace them, consider hex-head cap screws. You can adjust these by leaving a box-end wrench lying on the head, on the deck, and go below with your socket. A collection of wrenches makes for fewer trips below. Alternatively, you can clamp on Vise-Grips to the locknuts below and take up on the screws from topside; but then you will need a collection of Vise-Grips.

I don't see any reason to use large slotted-head machine screws on a boat, for anything really, if it can be avoided-- they are awful to maintain (been there, done that). Go find a screwdriver that fits these big slots first. Phillips-head screws in the larger sizes (above 1/4-20) are only slightly better.

When replacing any bolts through the aluminum toerail, do not fail to apply nylon or Delrin flat washers to electrolytically insulate the two metals from each other. You can get these in black if you prefer to not notice them. Also, when replacing toerail bolts, apply (black) 5200 to the upper part of the threads before poking them into the holes. Any replacement should include new wide fender washers (1" or 1-1/4" OD) under the fiberglass flange as well. For some reason my boat has/had bronze ones, from the factory-- that's three different metals together, purely idiotic. For those I have replaced, I have done as I have said here.

Above all, do not shy away from the boat merely because the toerail might leak. This is an opportunity for you to strike a really good bargain with a PO who believes the boat needs major work; and all you need to do is to go up and down the ladder about 25 times to fix it. I say go for it.