Hey mates, Do any of youse swabs or swabbies know anything about sail-drives? Specifically, 1) cost and time for the bladder replacement (bellows) 2) Cost or difficulty in replacing the whole unit, menaing the engine, trans, and attached loer end including the prop. 3) Can a volvo be switched for a Yanmar 4) how long do these bladder/bellows typically last? This is for a nice gal that may buy a "Targa" Finish built sloop that has a problem with the engine-sail-drive-seal/bellows (bladder) et al. Thanks for all the continuing support, and all will be paid in due course, you can count on me...;-)
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Sail or Cruising world
Sometime in the past 18 mos one of the sail rags had an article on sail drives. Very informative. If I find it in my stack of manual archives I will post, meanwhile there were several comments in the archives (this site) some time back.
Sometime in the past 18 mos one of the sail rags had an article on sail drives. Very informative. If I find it in my stack of manual archives I will post, meanwhile there were several comments in the archives (this site) some time back.
Sail Drives
There was a back cover item in Practical Sailor in the last couple of months in which someone wrote in complaining about having horrendous corrosion problems in Volvo saildrives, having gone through something like 4 lower units in 8 years, and the editors had a full page discussion of the issue and possible causes and solutions.
There was a back cover item in Practical Sailor in the last couple of months in which someone wrote in complaining about having horrendous corrosion problems in Volvo saildrives, having gone through something like 4 lower units in 8 years, and the editors had a full page discussion of the issue and possible causes and solutions.
Practical Sailor Article
Regarding the previous post the article is on the back cover of the January 2006 edition of Practical Sailor. No where in the article does the article identify the sail drive as a Volvo (although it is a Swedish made boat so it may well be). The article does not indicate the drive is at fault - it makes several suggestions about possible reasons for the continued corrosion problem - eg. a frequent one is stray current corrosion - which given that sail drive lower units are aluminum which is one of the least noble metals is a likely problem. Using copper based paint on the out drive is a definite no-no. The article goes on to discuss lots more, however the bottom line is that there is a specific problem with the this particular boat which would need a site inspection to trouble shoot. Sail drives are used on lots of boats and they don't all have corrosion problems. Captain Ron - don't you or your friend be put off sail drives because of the previous post - however be aware of the potential for problems. As for answers to your question - I haven't got a sail drive and so have no idea regarding the maintenance/replacement of the unit. I have chartered a 37' boat that had one found it to be excellent for handling when docking 'stern to' in Croatia (there is virtually no prop walk as the propeller is installed on a horizontal shaft).
Regarding the previous post the article is on the back cover of the January 2006 edition of Practical Sailor. No where in the article does the article identify the sail drive as a Volvo (although it is a Swedish made boat so it may well be). The article does not indicate the drive is at fault - it makes several suggestions about possible reasons for the continued corrosion problem - eg. a frequent one is stray current corrosion - which given that sail drive lower units are aluminum which is one of the least noble metals is a likely problem. Using copper based paint on the out drive is a definite no-no. The article goes on to discuss lots more, however the bottom line is that there is a specific problem with the this particular boat which would need a site inspection to trouble shoot. Sail drives are used on lots of boats and they don't all have corrosion problems. Captain Ron - don't you or your friend be put off sail drives because of the previous post - however be aware of the potential for problems. As for answers to your question - I haven't got a sail drive and so have no idea regarding the maintenance/replacement of the unit. I have chartered a 37' boat that had one found it to be excellent for handling when docking 'stern to' in Croatia (there is virtually no prop walk as the propeller is installed on a horizontal shaft).
some answers to sail drives ?
I recall this article that the others are referring. Good article and basically gave sail drives a good review. The bladder being one item of concern. A friend bought a new boat last year with a sail drive and did some research on them,the bladder has a seven year "life" as per the manufacture and replacement is considered maintenance. If you stick to this schedule should be no problems is however a big job to replace the bladder as the whole unit must be pulled. As far as a total replacement and installing a conventional drive I think this will be very costly if possible on most boats. The manufacture has most likely used the space required for a shaft and tube for other things and not sure how the engine bed would align up but the real answer her is with a good re-power shop and a physical inspection of the boat to see what exactly will need to be redesigned. The replacement of the bladder is basically remove and replace the engine and trans. It should come out as one unit (lower unit and all) and depending on the boat will most likely depend on the cost but include the price of haul out,crane or some type of boom to lift unit out of boat. But I would guess a day or two anyway.(read 10 to 20 hour at local rates) Volvo markets there engine and sail drive and not sure why you replace the volve engine for a yanmar as both are good products, but if the yanmar matched up to the trans you could do it but it is never that easy. I thought yanmar was going to introduce a sail drive but not sure of this. At any rate sail drives has been around in Europe for a long long time and are very well thought of.Good Luck !
I recall this article that the others are referring. Good article and basically gave sail drives a good review. The bladder being one item of concern. A friend bought a new boat last year with a sail drive and did some research on them,the bladder has a seven year "life" as per the manufacture and replacement is considered maintenance. If you stick to this schedule should be no problems is however a big job to replace the bladder as the whole unit must be pulled. As far as a total replacement and installing a conventional drive I think this will be very costly if possible on most boats. The manufacture has most likely used the space required for a shaft and tube for other things and not sure how the engine bed would align up but the real answer her is with a good re-power shop and a physical inspection of the boat to see what exactly will need to be redesigned. The replacement of the bladder is basically remove and replace the engine and trans. It should come out as one unit (lower unit and all) and depending on the boat will most likely depend on the cost but include the price of haul out,crane or some type of boom to lift unit out of boat. But I would guess a day or two anyway.(read 10 to 20 hour at local rates) Volvo markets there engine and sail drive and not sure why you replace the volve engine for a yanmar as both are good products, but if the yanmar matched up to the trans you could do it but it is never that easy. I thought yanmar was going to introduce a sail drive but not sure of this. At any rate sail drives has been around in Europe for a long long time and are very well thought of.Good Luck !
Saildrives.
I did the service of replacing the boot and lockring on a 1983 MD17 powered boat last summer. I don't remember the parts being out of line in pricing. That's suprising for Volvo. The biggest problem was the corrosion from salt water driping out of the raw water pump on the inside of the boat. Most engine builders will adapt their engine to meet your saildrive unit when the engine is spec'd at purchase. I haven't tried it but I think from looking at measurements you could put a Yanmar in place of the Volvo. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
I did the service of replacing the boot and lockring on a 1983 MD17 powered boat last summer. I don't remember the parts being out of line in pricing. That's suprising for Volvo. The biggest problem was the corrosion from salt water driping out of the raw water pump on the inside of the boat. Most engine builders will adapt their engine to meet your saildrive unit when the engine is spec'd at purchase. I haven't tried it but I think from looking at measurements you could put a Yanmar in place of the Volvo. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
Saildrive owners forum
There is a forum for Saildrive owners on Yahoo. It is mostly used by the folks who own the cursed OMC unit (I'm one of them), but it is intended for anyone who has a saildrive power plant regardless of engine type. Drop the forum a line there may be someone on it who has the unit you are referring to. Good luck, Mike
There is a forum for Saildrive owners on Yahoo. It is mostly used by the folks who own the cursed OMC unit (I'm one of them), but it is intended for anyone who has a saildrive power plant regardless of engine type. Drop the forum a line there may be someone on it who has the unit you are referring to. Good luck, Mike
Sail drives
I didn't mean to suggest that the Practical Sailor editors gave the sail drive a bad review, just to suggest someone wanting to learn about sail drives might find it interesting. It was the letter to the editor that was complaining about the sail drives (based on the writer's really bad experience). The editors' response certainly indicated that the problems of the letter writer were quite a bit outlying from the norm. On the other hand, they also seemed to point to a 10 year life for a sail drive as doing pretty well, which seems to me not to be a fabulous life expectancy. They also pointed to a number of things that can be done in the maintenance realm that would help a great deal.
I didn't mean to suggest that the Practical Sailor editors gave the sail drive a bad review, just to suggest someone wanting to learn about sail drives might find it interesting. It was the letter to the editor that was complaining about the sail drives (based on the writer's really bad experience). The editors' response certainly indicated that the problems of the letter writer were quite a bit outlying from the norm. On the other hand, they also seemed to point to a 10 year life for a sail drive as doing pretty well, which seems to me not to be a fabulous life expectancy. They also pointed to a number of things that can be done in the maintenance realm that would help a great deal.
Rubber seal replacement
There are a couple of factors deciding the difficulty and time it takes to change the membrane. One is the space above and behind the engine, another is the cut out the factory made in the bottom of the boat. If the factory made it to 'the limit' you may not have to remove the engine, just split the drive, tilt the engine up at the back and replace the membrane. It is recomended to change the metal ring at the same time if corroded! Time to do the job? from 4 hours and up! About corrosion that one hears about from time to time it is mainly caused by either electric currents from the boat itself or surrounding boats, or bottompaint. If you have a sail drive keep copper paint away from the boat in total, not only from the drive! If the original paint/primer on the drive gets dammaged re-prime it with epoxy primer.
There are a couple of factors deciding the difficulty and time it takes to change the membrane. One is the space above and behind the engine, another is the cut out the factory made in the bottom of the boat. If the factory made it to 'the limit' you may not have to remove the engine, just split the drive, tilt the engine up at the back and replace the membrane. It is recomended to change the metal ring at the same time if corroded! Time to do the job? from 4 hours and up! About corrosion that one hears about from time to time it is mainly caused by either electric currents from the boat itself or surrounding boats, or bottompaint. If you have a sail drive keep copper paint away from the boat in total, not only from the drive! If the original paint/primer on the drive gets dammaged re-prime it with epoxy primer.
What is a saildrive? (dumb question?)
Sorry, I did a google but didn't find anything right away as to what is meant by the term 'saildrive' and I'd be interested to know. Is it any engine arrangment which has a leg protruding through the hull as opposed to a shaft and prop only?
Sorry, I did a google but didn't find anything right away as to what is meant by the term 'saildrive' and I'd be interested to know. Is it any engine arrangment which has a leg protruding through the hull as opposed to a shaft and prop only?
Yeah, kind of an outdrive for sailboats, I've
attached link with a good picture. This unit uses a 12HP Honda mated to Volvo drive & Honda lower unit. They are also marketed as a replacement for the OMC saildrives. I think there is some material here also about installation etc.
attached link with a good picture. This unit uses a 12HP Honda mated to Volvo drive & Honda lower unit. They are also marketed as a replacement for the OMC saildrives. I think there is some material here also about installation etc.
Aye Mates
A hearty thanks to all you mates that responded, the lady sends her thanks as well, lotta good info. Now have to head off again, put 2,500 miles on last week driving I-5 & 101 in the pouring rain AArrrrrragh...
A hearty thanks to all you mates that responded, the lady sends her thanks as well, lotta good info. Now have to head off again, put 2,500 miles on last week driving I-5 & 101 in the pouring rain AArrrrrragh...
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