What do you guys use for a dis-connectable mast mounted VHF antenna cable connection at deck level?
Thanks.
Thanks.
VHF connector for trailer sailor?
- Thread starter Merlin Clark
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A cable, sticking out of the deck through a fitting, with a connector on the end.
Edit: You mean off the mast side? It passes through a grommet, with a connector on the end. There is a female/female adapter.
Hiee Merlinuxo,
I just had the cable come out of the deck via a watertight fitting and then used a connector to join that to the cable coming out of the mast. My mast cabling is internal so the cable exits the bottom of the mast as it is a little over an inch above the mast step.
c_witch
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Thanks all.
I've got the thru deck connect like Brina so guess I'll do the 2 radio side looking connectors and the adaptor. Thought there might be one of each type (male/female connectors) available for this.
When I got the boat the cable was continuous from the mast head antenna, thru the mast and a hole in the deck (epoxy around the cable to seal out weather) to the radio. I had to cut it to step the mast. I usually just use a handheld VHF but picked up a fixed mount at a Defender sale so I patched the cable with coax fittings (didn't work). Now my business is slow and the weather is better so I'm messing with the boat more so want to fix this.
Do you all have any problem with water intrusion into the fittings?
I've got the thru deck connect like Brina so guess I'll do the 2 radio side looking connectors and the adaptor. Thought there might be one of each type (male/female connectors) available for this.
When I got the boat the cable was continuous from the mast head antenna, thru the mast and a hole in the deck (epoxy around the cable to seal out weather) to the radio. I had to cut it to step the mast. I usually just use a handheld VHF but picked up a fixed mount at a Defender sale so I patched the cable with coax fittings (didn't work). Now my business is slow and the weather is better so I'm messing with the boat more so want to fix this.
Do you all have any problem with water intrusion into the fittings?
Merlin,
The connector is long enough so that if you got 2 s/s washers just big enough for it to fit thru you could use a rubber washer on top of the outter one and then clamp that assembly down to the deck so the male end is basically fixed on deck ie similar to what is shown in the earlier posted link.
c_witch
The connector is long enough so that if you got 2 s/s washers just big enough for it to fit thru you could use a rubber washer on top of the outter one and then clamp that assembly down to the deck so the male end is basically fixed on deck ie similar to what is shown in the earlier posted link.
c_witch
I removed my thru-hull coax connector just a couple of months ago because I discovered a tiny drop of water coming through. My connector has a nut and washer on top and a nut and washer in the cabin. Evidently, the thr-hull connector must have turned and broke the seal. I may have used silicon caulking to seal it back then.
This time I use 3-M 4200 to seal and adhere it. All I can say is use a good adhesive caulking so that it doesn't turn in the hole through the cabin top.
This time I use 3-M 4200 to seal and adhere it. All I can say is use a good adhesive caulking so that it doesn't turn in the hole through the cabin top.
The double female connector is also available through Sailboatowners.com's chandlery-
Your hosts here,
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?7146
Your hosts here,
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?7146
Sorry I didn't notice the "out of stock" But they are PL 259 connectors. Same O Same O UHF or VHF. Will work with either. May need an adapter depending on coax size (RG -8X, RG-58U, RG-213, whatever), but the end fitting is the same, so no adapter would be needed for the connectors.
By the way, use the largest coax you can make work- signal loss is less.
Ex Navy Aviation Electronics Tech, by the way.
By the way, use the largest coax you can make work- signal loss is less.
Ex Navy Aviation Electronics Tech, by the way.
Thanks TSBB.
I saw the adapters listed with the male fittings.
I was a GMG1 EOD (we didn't fix things, we broke them- usually on purpose)
I saw the adapters listed with the male fittings.
I was a GMG1 EOD (we didn't fix things, we broke them- usually on purpose)
For many years, I have used the 2 inch fully threaded double ended female thru deck connector by Sea Dog which their model number is 329951-1 successfully. The line from the mast simply takes a PL 259 connector. The connector comes in a solderless style which I used for this application as it is crimped on. You simply unscrew or screw that connector onto the protruding female. There is also a stainless steel cap for that doulble ended female connector when not in use. No more issues with connecting the vhf cable anymore. Make sure to caulk well plus the three screws. Do not over drill the hole size either.
crazy dave condon
crazy dave condon
For the mast antenna connection, I'm using a mating pair of BNC inline connectors on marine RG58 cable. BNC is a popular small RF connector type that locks/unlocks with a quarter-turn. They are available in many different inline and mounting configurations, and there's also a good choice of weatherproof caps, which covers the connectors. They are available in both solder and solderless types. I've used both successfully but the ones with soldered center pins are more reliable for all-weather use.
BNC are not quite as robust as the larger PL259, but they have been dependable for me
BNC are not quite as robust as the larger PL259, but they have been dependable for me
BNC connectors are fine for the frequency and power of VHF marine radios, but the advantage of PL259's are the durability. None are weatherproof and will require some protection. I would suggest the bulkhead fully threaded SO239 and add a larger flat washer on each end to help secure and seal. The worst thing is moisture. Water can run down cables and right into connectors unless something is done to prevent it. You can add a drip-loop, or a right angle adapter like this that helps keep water from the connectors. On a trailer boat, you want to seal the connectors with something that is relatively easy to remove. Plain old electrical tape will last about a month and is easy enough to remove. Butyl tape is very good and lasts a long, long time, but is messy to remove when trailering. There is a butyl tape that is more like soft rubber and less tar-like. It's commonly referred to as self amalgamating tape. It's effective on connectors and easy to remove. It will last for years if done properly. Don't go cheap on the connectors. The one's I linked to are nickel plated and will not corrode very easily exposed. The female to female SO239 sold in the chandelry here, referred in an earlier post, is for joining two cables and not mounting through a bulkhead or deck. It could be used if you run a cable through the deck and terminate with a PL259. Some connectors and adapters are cheap pot-metal and fall apart.
If you are putting a connector on your cable, make sure the braid is not dull or dark looking. It should look like shiny new copper or clean silver if tinned. Dark or corroded braid is a sign of moisture being wicked into the cable. You can cut it back until you find clean copper, or replace it. If I were replacing the cable and making runs<50' to the antenna, I would use LMR-240 coax. It's reasonably priced, small diameter, good specs, and much easier to deal with than RG8. The performance improvement using other, more expensive cables like LMR400, RG8, etc is minimal and not worth the added cost for performance that can't be noticed without test gear.
If you are putting a connector on your cable, make sure the braid is not dull or dark looking. It should look like shiny new copper or clean silver if tinned. Dark or corroded braid is a sign of moisture being wicked into the cable. You can cut it back until you find clean copper, or replace it. If I were replacing the cable and making runs<50' to the antenna, I would use LMR-240 coax. It's reasonably priced, small diameter, good specs, and much easier to deal with than RG8. The performance improvement using other, more expensive cables like LMR400, RG8, etc is minimal and not worth the added cost for performance that can't be noticed without test gear.
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