How can I run my VHF cable from the mast to the stern internally? I tried drilling a hole to run it through the cabin ceiling but the cable got hung up. Any ideas?
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Sean Coerse
VHF
Drill all the way through the top of the cabin at the base of the mast. Run the cable down the front of the compression post. Conceal it with a piece of teak molding (boat us or west marine). Run it sidesways to the seatee located on the starboard side. Drill into seatee and run under the pan back to where you are going to mount VHF. Worked on my H240. Mounted VHF on backside of companion way steps. Makes great access from cockpit. Took better part of a day to get it done right, but was worth it.
Drill all the way through the top of the cabin at the base of the mast. Run the cable down the front of the compression post. Conceal it with a piece of teak molding (boat us or west marine). Run it sidesways to the seatee located on the starboard side. Drill into seatee and run under the pan back to where you are going to mount VHF. Worked on my H240. Mounted VHF on backside of companion way steps. Makes great access from cockpit. Took better part of a day to get it done right, but was worth it.
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Bob Gravenstine
VHF Cable
I ran my cable without drilling a bunch of holes in the boat. Drill a new hole near the entrance connections from your mast on deck. Follow the wires for the mast lights back to the electrical panel. From the electrical panel you can follow the wires back to the battery area. If not, you can dig out some of the foam and run a wire along the stbd side just behind the interior head liner. You are now at the stern of the boat and can go from there. All my wiring is hidden, and I didn't use any teak wiring channels. Good Luck. Bob back on "Gravyboat"
I ran my cable without drilling a bunch of holes in the boat. Drill a new hole near the entrance connections from your mast on deck. Follow the wires for the mast lights back to the electrical panel. From the electrical panel you can follow the wires back to the battery area. If not, you can dig out some of the foam and run a wire along the stbd side just behind the interior head liner. You are now at the stern of the boat and can go from there. All my wiring is hidden, and I didn't use any teak wiring channels. Good Luck. Bob back on "Gravyboat"
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Claude auger
VHF Cable
I don`t know how your mast is set up, but assuming your cable is already run through the mast, and down through the deck, all the wiring for steaming light (mid mast) and anchor light (mast top) must be somewhere there also. Here is how I would proceed: 1) Cut off DC power at main breaker or disconnect battery. 2)Go to the electrical panel and disconnect the 12V wire for mast lights. 3) Splice(solder)another long wire to the disconnected end (you will have to cut off the small connector). 4)Slowly pull from the other end. 5)Then splice the VHF cable a few inches behind the first splice, wrap the whole thing tightly with electrical tape, and put a smudge of dishwasing liquid on the electrical tape to provide slipperiness. 6) Go back to the loose end of your long wire and pull slowlw to bring the whole thing back to the panel. It helps if someone can feed the wires in as you pull. 7) Dissasemble the wires and reconnect mast wire to breaker. If you cannot run the VHF cable to the stern easily, repeat the process with the stern light wire, disconnecting at the light and splicing long pull-wire there. It's long and tedious, but it has worked for me every time I have needed to fish wires in blind areas. Good luck If you can't run
I don`t know how your mast is set up, but assuming your cable is already run through the mast, and down through the deck, all the wiring for steaming light (mid mast) and anchor light (mast top) must be somewhere there also. Here is how I would proceed: 1) Cut off DC power at main breaker or disconnect battery. 2)Go to the electrical panel and disconnect the 12V wire for mast lights. 3) Splice(solder)another long wire to the disconnected end (you will have to cut off the small connector). 4)Slowly pull from the other end. 5)Then splice the VHF cable a few inches behind the first splice, wrap the whole thing tightly with electrical tape, and put a smudge of dishwasing liquid on the electrical tape to provide slipperiness. 6) Go back to the loose end of your long wire and pull slowlw to bring the whole thing back to the panel. It helps if someone can feed the wires in as you pull. 7) Dissasemble the wires and reconnect mast wire to breaker. If you cannot run the VHF cable to the stern easily, repeat the process with the stern light wire, disconnecting at the light and splicing long pull-wire there. It's long and tedious, but it has worked for me every time I have needed to fish wires in blind areas. Good luck If you can't run
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Bernie LaScala
Concealed wiring
Fred I have been running a lot of wire and coax concealed in my new 260. I ran coax from my VHF antenna from the top of the mast (along with a 14/3 cable for a masthead mounted Rick Webb-style spotlight and windex light) down through the plastic conduit in the mast. Near the bottom of the mast I drilled a hole for each of these new cables and protected them with rubber grommets. Disconnect jacks were installed at the mast base using plenty of marine silicone to seal the base to the deck. I opened the plastic access covers on the cabin ceiling. Using two electrical snakes to finallly get one snake from the circuit breaker area to below the mast, I used the snake to connect a 1/8 inch messenger line from the mast access cover back to the area of the DC circuit breakers. The messenger line tends to get hung up less than a snake. Then I pulled the coax and electrical cable towards the stern using the messenger cable. Whenever it tended to get hung up, I would pull back on the cables a few inches and then pull on the messenger line again. I also ran coax to the other side of the companionway to the light in the head. That was done because I mounted my VHF radio in the bulkhead between the hatch and the head. The other coax I used for a stereo/CD player that I mouted on the ceiling in the galley area. I used an automatic switch in the ceiling below the mast to switch off the stereo coax whenever transmitting on VHF. I also rigged this so that I can use the stereo coax as an antenna feed to my TV. It provides much better reception than the rabbit ears I had been using. To go further aft, I run wires down from the circuit breaker area under the stove, under the aft berth decking, through some factory-installed short plastic conduits near the aft bunk bulkheads into the aft battery locker. Hope this all makes sense and is useful to you. Bernie
Fred I have been running a lot of wire and coax concealed in my new 260. I ran coax from my VHF antenna from the top of the mast (along with a 14/3 cable for a masthead mounted Rick Webb-style spotlight and windex light) down through the plastic conduit in the mast. Near the bottom of the mast I drilled a hole for each of these new cables and protected them with rubber grommets. Disconnect jacks were installed at the mast base using plenty of marine silicone to seal the base to the deck. I opened the plastic access covers on the cabin ceiling. Using two electrical snakes to finallly get one snake from the circuit breaker area to below the mast, I used the snake to connect a 1/8 inch messenger line from the mast access cover back to the area of the DC circuit breakers. The messenger line tends to get hung up less than a snake. Then I pulled the coax and electrical cable towards the stern using the messenger cable. Whenever it tended to get hung up, I would pull back on the cables a few inches and then pull on the messenger line again. I also ran coax to the other side of the companionway to the light in the head. That was done because I mounted my VHF radio in the bulkhead between the hatch and the head. The other coax I used for a stereo/CD player that I mouted on the ceiling in the galley area. I used an automatic switch in the ceiling below the mast to switch off the stereo coax whenever transmitting on VHF. I also rigged this so that I can use the stereo coax as an antenna feed to my TV. It provides much better reception than the rabbit ears I had been using. To go further aft, I run wires down from the circuit breaker area under the stove, under the aft berth decking, through some factory-installed short plastic conduits near the aft bunk bulkheads into the aft battery locker. Hope this all makes sense and is useful to you. Bernie
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Tom M.
automatic switch?
Bernie, what kind of switch are you using for the VHF/stereo? Model/part number? Sounds like a very neat solution. Thanks. Tom M.
Bernie, what kind of switch are you using for the VHF/stereo? Model/part number? Sounds like a very neat solution. Thanks. Tom M.
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Bernie LaScala
Answer for Tom M.
Tom, I bought the switch from BoatUS. It cost between $35-$40. It came with a male PL-258/259 jack to connect to your antenna; a short length of coax with a female PL 258/259 jack to connect to your VHF radio; and a female motorola jack. The switch kit includes 10 feet of coax with male motorola jacks at each end to connect the switch to your stereo. I also made up a length of coax with a male motorola at one end and a standard "f connector" at the other to use for my television. The VHF/stereo switch works great and doesn't seem to have any noticeable negative effect on the VHF radio or stereo. Whenever I do a radio check, I have always been heard loud and clear for many miles. The reason I used the switch was because Shakespeare Antennas' technical support told me that you cannot place two antennas on the top of the mast unless you had some way of keeping them at least three feet apart. BoatUS's online catalog doesn't list the same switch as I bought. Thus I can't give you the exact model number until I visit their store again. I bought it about two months ago, so I am sure it is still carried. Hope this helps - Bernie
Tom, I bought the switch from BoatUS. It cost between $35-$40. It came with a male PL-258/259 jack to connect to your antenna; a short length of coax with a female PL 258/259 jack to connect to your VHF radio; and a female motorola jack. The switch kit includes 10 feet of coax with male motorola jacks at each end to connect the switch to your stereo. I also made up a length of coax with a male motorola at one end and a standard "f connector" at the other to use for my television. The VHF/stereo switch works great and doesn't seem to have any noticeable negative effect on the VHF radio or stereo. Whenever I do a radio check, I have always been heard loud and clear for many miles. The reason I used the switch was because Shakespeare Antennas' technical support told me that you cannot place two antennas on the top of the mast unless you had some way of keeping them at least three feet apart. BoatUS's online catalog doesn't list the same switch as I bought. Thus I can't give you the exact model number until I visit their store again. I bought it about two months ago, so I am sure it is still carried. Hope this helps - Bernie
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Rick Webb
Switch Maybe Uneccesary
I snaked the coax and wsa about to plunk down the money for the switch when the sales person at West Marine here in town suggested I try this $3.00 floppy wire anntena for the stereo and it works great. For the price it may be worth a try.
I snaked the coax and wsa about to plunk down the money for the switch when the sales person at West Marine here in town suggested I try this $3.00 floppy wire anntena for the stereo and it works great. For the price it may be worth a try.
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Bernie LaScala
Response to Rick W.
Rick, I guess it all depends where you are whether the switch's ~$35 cost is worth the improvement gained. I sail mostly on what is essentially a mountain lake. I tried the inexpensive antenna that works well for you, but it didn't help my situation very much. I need that 40' mast height to significantly improve the signal and receive more channels, not only for the stereo, but especially for the tv. In my situation it was well worth the money. Your input may be valid for Tom's situation, and it is good that he is aware of alternatives. Bernie
Rick, I guess it all depends where you are whether the switch's ~$35 cost is worth the improvement gained. I sail mostly on what is essentially a mountain lake. I tried the inexpensive antenna that works well for you, but it didn't help my situation very much. I need that 40' mast height to significantly improve the signal and receive more channels, not only for the stereo, but especially for the tv. In my situation it was well worth the money. Your input may be valid for Tom's situation, and it is good that he is aware of alternatives. Bernie
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Rick Webb
Thanks Bernie
I had not thought of using it for the TV as well and wondered how well it would work in a place more isolated. But for $3 it was worth a shot. I left the coax in so that I can use it later if I need to. Just think of all the things we could hang from the top of our mast if we put the whole 3' piece of aluminum across it to mount all of the antennas.
I had not thought of using it for the TV as well and wondered how well it would work in a place more isolated. But for $3 it was worth a shot. I left the coax in so that I can use it later if I need to. Just think of all the things we could hang from the top of our mast if we put the whole 3' piece of aluminum across it to mount all of the antennas.
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Tom M.
Bernie & Rick
I sail on a mountain lake also. I already have a car antenna (telescoping) that I got at an auto parts store and stuck inside the head liner extended as far as I could get it, about half way, my stereo is mounted just aft of the compression post/ access panel, facing the cockpit. It does not pick up the stations that I can get in the car parked 1/4 mile away. That is why I was interested in the mast top solution. I was also concerned with having two antennas up there during VHF transmission, and so will probably see if I can come up with one of those switches. Bernie, if you could post the mfgr/model # that would be great. Thanks to you both for the discussion. Tom M.
I sail on a mountain lake also. I already have a car antenna (telescoping) that I got at an auto parts store and stuck inside the head liner extended as far as I could get it, about half way, my stereo is mounted just aft of the compression post/ access panel, facing the cockpit. It does not pick up the stations that I can get in the car parked 1/4 mile away. That is why I was interested in the mast top solution. I was also concerned with having two antennas up there during VHF transmission, and so will probably see if I can come up with one of those switches. Bernie, if you could post the mfgr/model # that would be great. Thanks to you both for the discussion. Tom M.
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Rick Webb
Car Anntena
Car anntenas are made to be grounded to the body of the car and I am not sure how well it would work on a boat umounted and un grounded. BoatUS lists the switch in their catalog on page 30 item 308144 $34.99 and calls it an FM/VHF Two Way Switch. I saw it at West Marine also but could not find it in their catalog. Hope that helps.
Car anntenas are made to be grounded to the body of the car and I am not sure how well it would work on a boat umounted and un grounded. BoatUS lists the switch in their catalog on page 30 item 308144 $34.99 and calls it an FM/VHF Two Way Switch. I saw it at West Marine also but could not find it in their catalog. Hope that helps.
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Tom
Use existing cable conduits, if you can
Hi Fred, I recently installed a VHF in my 1999 260 and here is my experience. First of all, I mounted the VHF radio just aft of the compression post in the cabin, attaching the braket to the aft most access plate there. The Mast head antena is connected to the radio by a continuous cable run with connectors on each end: one at the attena, one at the radio. A short section of PVC pipe was used to enclose a hole through the deck at the base of the mast. The cable is fed through PVC end cap with a hole in the center (before installing the connector). Another end cap is used to seal the through deck pipe when the mast is down. This was done to minimize the number of cable connections which are a source of signal loss. It also minimized the cable run between radio and antenna. Near the compression post there are two access panels, take them off and look around. I found an unused conduit terminating behind the forward most panel. It has a string for pulliing a cable, but couldn't find the other end. The existing mast and cabin lighting power wires are not run through conduits and I found them to be tightly wedged between the liner and hull in tight places. I discounted using them to pull additional wires. I pulled the conduit end out of the aft access hole (of the two by the compression post) and pulled it straight for a straight run with an electricians snake. Ended up cutting about 10" off the conduit to make it more managable. Turns out that the other end of the conduit terminates at the molded in section of the hull behind the aft, starboard stanchion, beyond reach. This end of the conduit is almost totally blocked becuase it is up againts the recess in the deck. The closest you can get is the tiny access panel above the galley. While you are there, remove the overhead access panel (below the starboard winch) and the electrical panel. ** Note to Hunter -- install the conduit so that it terminates back a few inches away from the stanchion base, and lead the wire pulling string back to the electrical panel. After much jiggling and pushing, I did manage to get a snake to go through the conduit, feed from the forward end, and got it to pop out the blocked conduit over the galley then on to the panel. For the run from the panel aft, there is another conduit, but alas, the far end seems to be blocked by foam. I have not yet got through it. The existing wires from the battery to the panel seem to also be imbedded in the foam, so they can't be used to pull a string through, either. I haven't yet solved this but am ready to call RotoRooter to get through the foam. ** Note to Hunter -- A little extra care in planning the conduit run and/or blowing the foam would make wiring runs less challenging for the customer. Good luck and fair winds... Tom
Hi Fred, I recently installed a VHF in my 1999 260 and here is my experience. First of all, I mounted the VHF radio just aft of the compression post in the cabin, attaching the braket to the aft most access plate there. The Mast head antena is connected to the radio by a continuous cable run with connectors on each end: one at the attena, one at the radio. A short section of PVC pipe was used to enclose a hole through the deck at the base of the mast. The cable is fed through PVC end cap with a hole in the center (before installing the connector). Another end cap is used to seal the through deck pipe when the mast is down. This was done to minimize the number of cable connections which are a source of signal loss. It also minimized the cable run between radio and antenna. Near the compression post there are two access panels, take them off and look around. I found an unused conduit terminating behind the forward most panel. It has a string for pulliing a cable, but couldn't find the other end. The existing mast and cabin lighting power wires are not run through conduits and I found them to be tightly wedged between the liner and hull in tight places. I discounted using them to pull additional wires. I pulled the conduit end out of the aft access hole (of the two by the compression post) and pulled it straight for a straight run with an electricians snake. Ended up cutting about 10" off the conduit to make it more managable. Turns out that the other end of the conduit terminates at the molded in section of the hull behind the aft, starboard stanchion, beyond reach. This end of the conduit is almost totally blocked becuase it is up againts the recess in the deck. The closest you can get is the tiny access panel above the galley. While you are there, remove the overhead access panel (below the starboard winch) and the electrical panel. ** Note to Hunter -- install the conduit so that it terminates back a few inches away from the stanchion base, and lead the wire pulling string back to the electrical panel. After much jiggling and pushing, I did manage to get a snake to go through the conduit, feed from the forward end, and got it to pop out the blocked conduit over the galley then on to the panel. For the run from the panel aft, there is another conduit, but alas, the far end seems to be blocked by foam. I have not yet got through it. The existing wires from the battery to the panel seem to also be imbedded in the foam, so they can't be used to pull a string through, either. I haven't yet solved this but am ready to call RotoRooter to get through the foam. ** Note to Hunter -- A little extra care in planning the conduit run and/or blowing the foam would make wiring runs less challenging for the customer. Good luck and fair winds... Tom
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Tom M.
OK, thanks...and
Thanks for the P/N Rick I'll check on it. Question, isn't the antenna grounded via the antenna plug in the back of the stereo? For Tom of Boston, I too found that conduit in the headliner terminating at the compression post with a string in it I assume to be used as a messenger line. I tried to run a snake through it and could never get it to go past the wall cabinet in the galley. Never did find the other end. I ended up running the snake from the electrical panel back towards the compression post and was surprised to find that it was very easy. I connected two lines to the snake and pulled them back to the panel. One is for the stereo mounted aft of the aft access panel at the compression post, and the other is for the VHF which I intend to install next to the stereo. FYI, I ran the power and speaker wires from the stereo up through the aft middle of the aft access panel by cutting a semi-circle from the aft edge and enclosing the wires in a short piece of that split tubing like you can get at RadioShack. the stereo is in one of those 'under dash' kits. Looks pretty good actually. I then drilled a hole ~1/4" in size (big enough for two speaker wires), forward of the curtain rod in the center. The speaker wires exit that hole and are run right behind the curtain rod stuck to the cabin top with those little sticky back clips for phone line. Speakers, cabinet/box type, are mounted on either side of the V-berth right behind the curtains. Sound great and is pretty much out of sight. Tom M.
Thanks for the P/N Rick I'll check on it. Question, isn't the antenna grounded via the antenna plug in the back of the stereo? For Tom of Boston, I too found that conduit in the headliner terminating at the compression post with a string in it I assume to be used as a messenger line. I tried to run a snake through it and could never get it to go past the wall cabinet in the galley. Never did find the other end. I ended up running the snake from the electrical panel back towards the compression post and was surprised to find that it was very easy. I connected two lines to the snake and pulled them back to the panel. One is for the stereo mounted aft of the aft access panel at the compression post, and the other is for the VHF which I intend to install next to the stereo. FYI, I ran the power and speaker wires from the stereo up through the aft middle of the aft access panel by cutting a semi-circle from the aft edge and enclosing the wires in a short piece of that split tubing like you can get at RadioShack. the stereo is in one of those 'under dash' kits. Looks pretty good actually. I then drilled a hole ~1/4" in size (big enough for two speaker wires), forward of the curtain rod in the center. The speaker wires exit that hole and are run right behind the curtain rod stuck to the cabin top with those little sticky back clips for phone line. Speakers, cabinet/box type, are mounted on either side of the V-berth right behind the curtains. Sound great and is pretty much out of sight. Tom M.
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