I am finally going to get safe (well safer anyway) and legal and vent my laz. I have been keeping the fuel tank in there and really need some additional ventilation. There is one passive vent on the side of the motor well but I am adding two cowl vents on the top decking behind the end of the railings. One passive (intake) and the other with a bilge blower(exhaust). The exhaust vent will be ducted to the bottom of the laz. In addition I am going to vent the tank through the transom and seal the laz from the main cabin. I'll post photos if anyone is interested.
Venting the Laz
- Thread starter Capn Bob
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tank venting
Bob Cassel, was this a kit, add on to the plastic tanks? drill and screw in type? -you close the cap vent now, right?
Bob Cassel, was this a kit, add on to the plastic tanks? drill and screw in type? -you close the cap vent now, right?
leak-proof?
Bob, are those lever-action schrader fittings leak-proof? I was going to use the screw-on type.
Bob, are those lever-action schrader fittings leak-proof? I was going to use the screw-on type.
Been lookin' forever
Bob, I've been looking in the archives forever for this system you show. I'm only using one tank set up for a Merc, and have been a couple weeks cobbling together something that might work. I'm using plastic and brass thru-hulls, a garden hose inline shut-off and modifying a spare fill cap to accept the fitting end of the shut-off valve. In this system, I'll leave the vent open in the new cap(no guage) and thread the female of the hose shut-off onto the raised 'dimple' where the vent twist is I'll epoxy it in once I know it works). I also plan to completely seal the area, but wont have time this season, since I want to replace the thru-screws for the swim ladder(original)with stainless bolts and wide washers first. Was the system shown for this purpose in the west marine catalog? Every boating supply store I talked to said there was nothing at all like what you have...
Bob, I've been looking in the archives forever for this system you show. I'm only using one tank set up for a Merc, and have been a couple weeks cobbling together something that might work. I'm using plastic and brass thru-hulls, a garden hose inline shut-off and modifying a spare fill cap to accept the fitting end of the shut-off valve. In this system, I'll leave the vent open in the new cap(no guage) and thread the female of the hose shut-off onto the raised 'dimple' where the vent twist is I'll epoxy it in once I know it works). I also plan to completely seal the area, but wont have time this season, since I want to replace the thru-screws for the swim ladder(original)with stainless bolts and wide washers first. Was the system shown for this purpose in the west marine catalog? Every boating supply store I talked to said there was nothing at all like what you have...
Another solution...
Lots of solutions, so I may as well add mine! I don't have a hard plastic pad like on Kaisen's tank. My solution was to remove the vent screw - on mine, it's located in the cap which also has the fuel level indicator. You have to pull hard while turning - it will come out and will chew up the threads. I then used a heated tap to cut 3/8 npt threads in the plastic cap (used a propane torch to heat the tap - FAR away from the tank). I threaded in a 3/8 NPT to 1/4 barbed brass fitting (sealed with a bit of 4200). This is much more solid than using epoxy (as was mentined in an earlier post) as epoxy will not bond well to the pastic. I use 1/4 fuel line to connect it to my vent - which is also made from brass fittings (MUCH cheaper than marine store vent). A 1/4 barbed to 3/8 threaded goes through a hole in the fibreglass (engine well side near the top) and threads into a 3/8 threaded "L". A bit of 4200 and tighten it up so the "L" points down on the outside. Connenct with the fuel line. When I remove the tank I pull off the vent line and replace with a short length of fuel line that's plugged with a dowel. All the brass fittings came from Home Depot and only cost a few dollars. In hindsight, I would have used an automotive fitting on the tank side - but still threaded in to the cap vent. Chris
Lots of solutions, so I may as well add mine! I don't have a hard plastic pad like on Kaisen's tank. My solution was to remove the vent screw - on mine, it's located in the cap which also has the fuel level indicator. You have to pull hard while turning - it will come out and will chew up the threads. I then used a heated tap to cut 3/8 npt threads in the plastic cap (used a propane torch to heat the tap - FAR away from the tank). I threaded in a 3/8 NPT to 1/4 barbed brass fitting (sealed with a bit of 4200). This is much more solid than using epoxy (as was mentined in an earlier post) as epoxy will not bond well to the pastic. I use 1/4 fuel line to connect it to my vent - which is also made from brass fittings (MUCH cheaper than marine store vent). A 1/4 barbed to 3/8 threaded goes through a hole in the fibreglass (engine well side near the top) and threads into a 3/8 threaded "L". A bit of 4200 and tighten it up so the "L" points down on the outside. Connenct with the fuel line. When I remove the tank I pull off the vent line and replace with a short length of fuel line that's plugged with a dowel. All the brass fittings came from Home Depot and only cost a few dollars. In hindsight, I would have used an automotive fitting on the tank side - but still threaded in to the cap vent. Chris
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