I no longer have contact with the PO, but by dock mates tell me that my 86 Hunter 31' has not been out of the water in several years. I am thinking a haul out and bottom paint is in order. I am stictly a cruiser with no interest in racing. However I came across some VC Offshore anti-fouling and wonder what folks thought of it. I am interested in longevity, not performance. A search of this product indicated that whatever is currently on the boat must be removed or sanded to gelcoat as the Interlux family of paints does not do well over anything else. Would there be a better choice for my purposes?
VC Offshore Performance Bottom Paint
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VC 17m is considered to be a very good fresh water antifouling that is fast, easy to apply, dries quickly and is particularly good against zebra mussels which are quickly taking over the fresh bodies of water everywhere. VC Offshore, I don't think has been recognized as that good of a salt water antifouling, like VC 17 is recognized as a good fresh water paint.
The thing is, you really have to consider where you sail and what the conditions are.
First of all, there are multi season paints and single season paints for antifouling. Single season paints are considered to be very good, but when you take the boat out of the water (like for winter storage), there is a chemical change that renders the surface not so effective. These are mostly cuprous oxide based toxicant paints. The way they work is these toxicants leech away from the paint surface as the water moves along the hull. Eventually all the toxicants will leech away leaving only the paint (color) behind. If you look at an older application of these single season paints, you cannot assume that there is still toxicants left. If you sail in an area of the country where the boat is left in the water for longer periods of time (isn't removed for winter storage), then you can expect good performance for quite a long time. But, eventually you will see that the paint is not working so well anymore and can assume that the boat needs to be pulled and the paint replenished.
These often are hard paints that will build up through the years and eventually you will need to take them down when the applications are too thick and start over. Also, they need to be sanded between applications (not coats if within a specified window) with 80 grit sandpaper and then cleaned. So, they can be more labor intensive.
VC products are also cuprous oxide based and have the same problem of not be so effective when the hull dries, but they do not build up (nence never need to take it all off) and sanding is not required between applications. So, it is much more user friendly.
People who trailer their boats usually do not use single season paints because of this drying factor. Each time they remove the boat, this chemical change takes place. If it is a fairly new application where you can assume there is still toxicant within the paint substrate, then you can burnish or lightly sand the hull to open up the pores (so to speak) to make it more effective again, but this is, again, labor intensive.
Multi season paints, called ablative, use different antifouling toxicants, and they do not have any adverse effect when removed from the water. So, they are good for trailer sailors.
Unlike single season paints, the toxicant and the paint sluff off the hull with use at the same rate. Eventually all the paint will sluff off and you will see bare boat bottom at some point. This is good because it eliminates the build up that other paints might create, but the surface might look blotchy and not as smooth as one might expect, but this is normal. If you look at a boat bottom with a multi season paint applied, even if it is old, if there is paint evident, you can assume there is still antifouling performance left.
It is recommended by most manufacturers, that two coats be applied of the single season paint, but three be applied for multi season paints. The more paint, the longer the protection. Unfortunately, three coats means more paint, which means more money (and multi season paints are usually more expensive than single season paints). But, the fact that you can get by longer between applications helps justify the extra cost (and there is a labor factor there too in that you don't have to do the work or pay for it to be done as frequently).
The real cost of antifouling paint, besides the chemical make up of it, lies in how much toxicant is in the paint. The more toxicant (stronger the formula), the more expensive (and heavier) the paint.
If you are in a very warm, tropical climate, then you need a strong paint. Pettit's best paint is their Trinidad. I am not looking at product info right now, but I think the percentage of toxicant is something like 80%. Interlux's best tropical paint is Ultra and the toxicant level is quite near the Pettit's. I think Pettit just came out with a newer formula of Trinidad too, but not sure what it does for you.
Both Trinidad and Ultra have been single season paints, but those who use them usually leave their boats in the water for long periods of time and do not pull the boats for that dreaded chemical change.
There are a number reasons for poor antifouling protection even if you have paint applied and some reasons could be industrial waste floating in the water where you keep your boat, or anything that might contaminate the application. Warmer water has worse fouling than colder water, etc. A boat that sits more and sails less, could have more fouling problems.
Regarding compatibility, each paint manufacture usually has a chart that will show if another of their, or a competing brands paint is compatible with what you presently have on the boat. Generally you can apply a soft paint over a hard paint, but not a hard paint over a soft paint. Multi season paints are considered to be softer than single season paints.
VC products, I don't believe are very compatible with other paints and should be removed, which is not an easy task. But, the best thing to do is read up on the products you are interested in and make a decision.
The other consideration besides price and performance in choosing a paint might be color. VC Offers only a few colors and they aren't very bright. (Actually white VC17 is available in Europe, but not the U.S.) Other paint types have a better color selection, so that might have bearing on what you choose. Years ago tin was available for antifouling paints, but in the 80's, the EPA took them off the market. Only the U.S. Navy and huge boats can use them and then only with permission and applied by a licensed applicator. At any rate, these paints allowed brighter colors for antifouling paint and so when they were removed, colors again got darker hues. Pettit has an alternative toxicant that allows very bright colors including white. If this appeals to you, read up on their characteristics and see if they fit your needs considering the type of paint you want or need.
That's my 2 cents on the topic.
The thing is, you really have to consider where you sail and what the conditions are.
First of all, there are multi season paints and single season paints for antifouling. Single season paints are considered to be very good, but when you take the boat out of the water (like for winter storage), there is a chemical change that renders the surface not so effective. These are mostly cuprous oxide based toxicant paints. The way they work is these toxicants leech away from the paint surface as the water moves along the hull. Eventually all the toxicants will leech away leaving only the paint (color) behind. If you look at an older application of these single season paints, you cannot assume that there is still toxicants left. If you sail in an area of the country where the boat is left in the water for longer periods of time (isn't removed for winter storage), then you can expect good performance for quite a long time. But, eventually you will see that the paint is not working so well anymore and can assume that the boat needs to be pulled and the paint replenished.
These often are hard paints that will build up through the years and eventually you will need to take them down when the applications are too thick and start over. Also, they need to be sanded between applications (not coats if within a specified window) with 80 grit sandpaper and then cleaned. So, they can be more labor intensive.
VC products are also cuprous oxide based and have the same problem of not be so effective when the hull dries, but they do not build up (nence never need to take it all off) and sanding is not required between applications. So, it is much more user friendly.
People who trailer their boats usually do not use single season paints because of this drying factor. Each time they remove the boat, this chemical change takes place. If it is a fairly new application where you can assume there is still toxicant within the paint substrate, then you can burnish or lightly sand the hull to open up the pores (so to speak) to make it more effective again, but this is, again, labor intensive.
Multi season paints, called ablative, use different antifouling toxicants, and they do not have any adverse effect when removed from the water. So, they are good for trailer sailors.
Unlike single season paints, the toxicant and the paint sluff off the hull with use at the same rate. Eventually all the paint will sluff off and you will see bare boat bottom at some point. This is good because it eliminates the build up that other paints might create, but the surface might look blotchy and not as smooth as one might expect, but this is normal. If you look at a boat bottom with a multi season paint applied, even if it is old, if there is paint evident, you can assume there is still antifouling performance left.
It is recommended by most manufacturers, that two coats be applied of the single season paint, but three be applied for multi season paints. The more paint, the longer the protection. Unfortunately, three coats means more paint, which means more money (and multi season paints are usually more expensive than single season paints). But, the fact that you can get by longer between applications helps justify the extra cost (and there is a labor factor there too in that you don't have to do the work or pay for it to be done as frequently).
The real cost of antifouling paint, besides the chemical make up of it, lies in how much toxicant is in the paint. The more toxicant (stronger the formula), the more expensive (and heavier) the paint.
If you are in a very warm, tropical climate, then you need a strong paint. Pettit's best paint is their Trinidad. I am not looking at product info right now, but I think the percentage of toxicant is something like 80%. Interlux's best tropical paint is Ultra and the toxicant level is quite near the Pettit's. I think Pettit just came out with a newer formula of Trinidad too, but not sure what it does for you.
Both Trinidad and Ultra have been single season paints, but those who use them usually leave their boats in the water for long periods of time and do not pull the boats for that dreaded chemical change.
There are a number reasons for poor antifouling protection even if you have paint applied and some reasons could be industrial waste floating in the water where you keep your boat, or anything that might contaminate the application. Warmer water has worse fouling than colder water, etc. A boat that sits more and sails less, could have more fouling problems.
Regarding compatibility, each paint manufacture usually has a chart that will show if another of their, or a competing brands paint is compatible with what you presently have on the boat. Generally you can apply a soft paint over a hard paint, but not a hard paint over a soft paint. Multi season paints are considered to be softer than single season paints.
VC products, I don't believe are very compatible with other paints and should be removed, which is not an easy task. But, the best thing to do is read up on the products you are interested in and make a decision.
The other consideration besides price and performance in choosing a paint might be color. VC Offers only a few colors and they aren't very bright. (Actually white VC17 is available in Europe, but not the U.S.) Other paint types have a better color selection, so that might have bearing on what you choose. Years ago tin was available for antifouling paints, but in the 80's, the EPA took them off the market. Only the U.S. Navy and huge boats can use them and then only with permission and applied by a licensed applicator. At any rate, these paints allowed brighter colors for antifouling paint and so when they were removed, colors again got darker hues. Pettit has an alternative toxicant that allows very bright colors including white. If this appeals to you, read up on their characteristics and see if they fit your needs considering the type of paint you want or need.
That's my 2 cents on the topic.
That was a lot to digest, Bill. My specific conditions are: Salt water; boat is sailed fairly regularly, is not hauled or winterized; would not classify San Diego as "tropical", and a major objective is to keep haul outs to a minimum. From your comments , I would be looking to create a multi-season surface. If I used VC, I would have to sand to gelcoat to prevent a reaction with whatever product is there now, and would need at least 3 coats of paint.
Since they apparently release their toxicants over time, there is little buildup. Future coats will not require as much prep. In using VC, however, they seem to have ensured that you are stuck with their products until you are ready to take the paint down to gelcoat again.
Again, since I am cruiser, not racer, I have relatively little interest if the performance aspect of this product. I guess the final issue is the overall anti fouling quality of VC Offshore Performance. I am wondering if whatever the manufacturer did to achieve the "performance" qualities, necessarily sacrifices its antifouling qualities.
Since they apparently release their toxicants over time, there is little buildup. Future coats will not require as much prep. In using VC, however, they seem to have ensured that you are stuck with their products until you are ready to take the paint down to gelcoat again.
Again, since I am cruiser, not racer, I have relatively little interest if the performance aspect of this product. I guess the final issue is the overall anti fouling quality of VC Offshore Performance. I am wondering if whatever the manufacturer did to achieve the "performance" qualities, necessarily sacrifices its antifouling qualities.
I would use a paint that works in your area. Most of the yards know which products work best in your waters and that is really the key. What works in Florida, is probably not the best product in Conneticut or So. Cal.
The cost of removing the old paint down to the gel coat or epoxy may become very expensive, so that may be one of your considerations too.
The cost of removing the old paint down to the gel coat or epoxy may become very expensive, so that may be one of your considerations too.
When I write about performance, I don't necessarily always mean racing. A sailboat is a slow vessel in the water and fouling inhibits performance underway, whether racing or cruising, especially in light air. When the wind is blowing hard, a fouled bottom will not be as detrimental as a fouled bottom in very light air. I know lots of people who use VC17m and they are cruisers. Steve D suggested asking around what works best in your area and that is a good bit of advice. My comments were pretty general. Sort of a 101 course in bottom paints. Interlux, the people who provide VC products is a good source of into as well. They have people ready to answer your questions if you give them a call. You can find them on the web.
VC is also a Teflon product and that is where the speed performance comes into play. Usually performance in terms of speed is an application that is very smooth, which VC is when applied. Many antifouling paints, such as the others I mentioned, are usually applied with a roller and a cover that has a thicker nap. The application is not necessarily smooth for racing, but the fact that it keeps crap off the hull, it aids in sailing performance even while cruising. It is nice to have a boat that slips through the water nicely without the interference of growth.
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