I intend to strip the existing bottom paint (ablative bottomcoat) by whatever means necessary down to bare gelcoat and apply vc17. My question is, is it OK to apply the vc17 directly to the properly sanded and cleaned bottom without any type of primer etc.? Interlux says Ok, but then again it is their product. Sailors are more objective. Anyone with experience with vc17 over bare gelcoat specifically please reply. Thanks in advance!!
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I have used vc17 for several years , the reason I began using it had to do with the fact that it could be applied over other paints, whereas some paints could not, that a chemical reaction would or could occur to cause blistering or peeling. I do not think you would have to sand to bare fiberglass,it does a nice job, , doing what it is supposed to do , but where u and I sail there is not as much green growth as other lakes we have been in, I guess it is the mud factor, It goes on easy , thin paint almost like water, dries really fast so u can put several coats on in a day and still be dry by tomorrow, good luck Mike B
VC17 Tip
Dan, Make sure your boat sits in a cradle when hauled out of the water. Props and wedges tend to slip out and I have seen the domino effect of a teflon coated boat falling over in a gale.
Dan, Make sure your boat sits in a cradle when hauled out of the water. Props and wedges tend to slip out and I have seen the domino effect of a teflon coated boat falling over in a gale.
Barrier Coat
If you decide to strip the old paint down to gel coat maybe consider a few coats of barrier coat? Also, I remember hearing that sanding the gel coat voids the blister warranty. If sanding the barrier coat makes osmosses worse then adding a barrier coat would help compensate. Just an idea of another question to ask your paint expert.
If you decide to strip the old paint down to gel coat maybe consider a few coats of barrier coat? Also, I remember hearing that sanding the gel coat voids the blister warranty. If sanding the barrier coat makes osmosses worse then adding a barrier coat would help compensate. Just an idea of another question to ask your paint expert.
Popular on Lake Ontario
VC 17m is used here in Rochester. All folks that have changed over (to the best of my knowledge) strip the old anti-fouling paint down to the gelcoat. Then they apply a barrier coat, usually Interprotect Epoxy, then the VC 17m. VC Tar was used in the past as a barrier coat, but the epoxy seems to be more popular now. The VC 17m works well on keeping off the zebra mussels, but you will still get some green slime after in the water a while. The slime will slow the boat down if racing, so most racers clean the bottoms by diving and wiping off the green stuff, or purchasing one of those neat scrubbers that you use while standing on the deck or the dock, and using the long-handled scrubber do the work. I bought one last year, and it does a pretty good job. Pretty easy to use, and you don't freeze your butt off swimming under the boat while wiping with brush or sponge. I have seen ads in the magazines for new anti-fouling paint that keeps off the slime. I wonder how well they work. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty http://www.LakeOntarioSailing.com
VC 17m is used here in Rochester. All folks that have changed over (to the best of my knowledge) strip the old anti-fouling paint down to the gelcoat. Then they apply a barrier coat, usually Interprotect Epoxy, then the VC 17m. VC Tar was used in the past as a barrier coat, but the epoxy seems to be more popular now. The VC 17m works well on keeping off the zebra mussels, but you will still get some green slime after in the water a while. The slime will slow the boat down if racing, so most racers clean the bottoms by diving and wiping off the green stuff, or purchasing one of those neat scrubbers that you use while standing on the deck or the dock, and using the long-handled scrubber do the work. I bought one last year, and it does a pretty good job. Pretty easy to use, and you don't freeze your butt off swimming under the boat while wiping with brush or sponge. I have seen ads in the magazines for new anti-fouling paint that keeps off the slime. I wonder how well they work. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty http://www.LakeOntarioSailing.com
VC17
If you are going to all of the work of stripping off all of the present bottom paint, why not take out a little insurance and put on a barrier coat. I used VC TAR and am very pleased with it. Sure it costs more now but it is the only time you will have to put the barrier coat on and gives the VC 17 something to grab on to. Better to be glad you did than wish you would have later.
If you are going to all of the work of stripping off all of the present bottom paint, why not take out a little insurance and put on a barrier coat. I used VC TAR and am very pleased with it. Sure it costs more now but it is the only time you will have to put the barrier coat on and gives the VC 17 something to grab on to. Better to be glad you did than wish you would have later.
more on VC
I agree with previous posts. If you are going to strip down to gelcoat I would put a barrier coat on. And I would be very careful about putting VC-17 over other bottom paints. VC is an acetone solvent based paint and could cause a big mess if it reacts with other paints.
I agree with previous posts. If you are going to strip down to gelcoat I would put a barrier coat on. And I would be very careful about putting VC-17 over other bottom paints. VC is an acetone solvent based paint and could cause a big mess if it reacts with other paints.
Put on a barrier coat
I am in the process of stripping my old VC17, which was applied by a previous owner without a barrier coat. I am also fixing several dozen blisters. I am going back with a good barrier coat and Petit's Trinidad SR. I leave my boat in the water all year and would not recommend VC17 if you do. Only use VC17 if you plan to haul it out each year.
I am in the process of stripping my old VC17, which was applied by a previous owner without a barrier coat. I am also fixing several dozen blisters. I am going back with a good barrier coat and Petit's Trinidad SR. I leave my boat in the water all year and would not recommend VC17 if you do. Only use VC17 if you plan to haul it out each year.
Would NOT apply over an ablative
Hi Dan, An earlier post seemed to imply that you could apply the VC-17 over an ablative paint... I wouldn't try it, though. The ablative paint has a rough surface no matter what you do, and it's designed to 'slough' off. If you try to put the VC on top if it, the VC will likely come off in chunks as the ablative 'lets go' of the hull. There's also the chemical reaction issue- The VC may literally eat the ablative paint off of the hull! I think I'd play it safe and strip off the ablative completely with 120 grit sandpaper, then prep with (201? 202? 218? One of those interlux solvents...) to clean the surface. The barrier coat is not a bad idea, but I didn't use one on my H23 because I planned to keep her on the trailer most of the time. Worth mentioning, I DID seal the keel with an epoxy-based paint. I used 5 coats of Inter-protect 2000e, and it seemed to hold up fairly well. If I were to apply a barrier to the entire hull, this is probably what I would use as it is compatible with most of Interlux's paints. To answer your original question, I think there shouldn't be any problem applying the VC to an un-primed, sanded hull. I would use the two-color trick to help determine when to repaint, and then be liberal with the number of coats... --Jon Bastien H25 'Adagio' (p.s.- When are you coming back to KW?
Hi Dan, An earlier post seemed to imply that you could apply the VC-17 over an ablative paint... I wouldn't try it, though. The ablative paint has a rough surface no matter what you do, and it's designed to 'slough' off. If you try to put the VC on top if it, the VC will likely come off in chunks as the ablative 'lets go' of the hull. There's also the chemical reaction issue- The VC may literally eat the ablative paint off of the hull! I think I'd play it safe and strip off the ablative completely with 120 grit sandpaper, then prep with (201? 202? 218? One of those interlux solvents...) to clean the surface. The barrier coat is not a bad idea, but I didn't use one on my H23 because I planned to keep her on the trailer most of the time. Worth mentioning, I DID seal the keel with an epoxy-based paint. I used 5 coats of Inter-protect 2000e, and it seemed to hold up fairly well. If I were to apply a barrier to the entire hull, this is probably what I would use as it is compatible with most of Interlux's paints. To answer your original question, I think there shouldn't be any problem applying the VC to an un-primed, sanded hull. I would use the two-color trick to help determine when to repaint, and then be liberal with the number of coats... --Jon Bastien H25 'Adagio' (p.s.- When are you coming back to KW?
Barrier coat
If you do apply a barrier coat, just make sure you fix ALL blisters and let the hull dry out some. Otherwise the barrier coat will not allow any water to drain/seep out. If your bottom is clean & don't have blisters, a barrier coat is a good idea cuz it can help in preventing future osmosis problems. LaDonna
If you do apply a barrier coat, just make sure you fix ALL blisters and let the hull dry out some. Otherwise the barrier coat will not allow any water to drain/seep out. If your bottom is clean & don't have blisters, a barrier coat is a good idea cuz it can help in preventing future osmosis problems. LaDonna
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